PATHRIDER

It looks real good right now but I think itll look even better if you put a curve on the side...make it shorter up front and it rises up towards the back

Go with thorleys chrome..i cant download mpeg right now but those headers are mean sounding.

I tried that combo before and it looked funny

ouch!! you need one of those fiberglass fender from AC

Whatever you do dont forget to buy nissan parts like the belt and tensioner...it only cost a few more dollars more than the generic one.

I was going to take it to them saturday but theyre close.Talked to Mike and he said just bring it in tomorrow.Ill give you a buzz tomorrow morning

I was able to take both my drain plug out the first time I did my rad service and come time to do my tbelt that sucker wouldnt come out anymore..I did the same thing you did Robbie ..2 days of pb blasting with no luck so I just left it

I wouldnt buy anything from sears anymore ..Them SOB charges 15% re stocking fee if you return a tool to them.What happened to that SATISFACTION GUARANTEE that theyre offering I agree with UNC,pawnshop is the way to go but you better do your research first on the tool that youre buying as far as pricing coz some pawnshop charges too much and you might think that youre getting a bargain coz its from a pawnshop. Youll still find older snap on tools at pawnshops that are american made not like the new ones snap-on truck sells that are made in china. another thing is if you buy a broken snap-on tools or mac even matco from a pawnshop and try to return it to a snap on dealer good luck in having it replaced unless you know that dealer.

Ridgid power tools has a lifetime warranty..cant beat that

Train youre going to need atleast 3 cans of PB on those

Cobalt tools that Lowes hardware store carries. better than snap-on IMO and you dont have to chase the snap-on truck everytime you need it replaced. I use Kennedy toolbox & craftsman and when Im working on the pathy I just put the tools I need in a nylon bag and sometimes I use my roolaway cart type

8X30MM works perfect as far as the bolts .I went with the 10.9 also instead of the 8.8 The broken stud came out easy..I think the secret to doing this is taking your time...I soaked it repeteadly with pb while I was extracting it. I used an IRWIN 9/64 square bolt extractor..Perfect size...Ive never had any luck using the spiral type. The EGR tube also went back in without having to fight to get it on there or need to be extended..Thanks Thomas for bringing that mini pipe wrench and helping me install that EGR pipe So far so good..It sounds mean...Im going to take it to a muffler shop monday and have a new cat and muff installed on 2.25 piping

no problem bud.I kinda figure your working on that secretary..I mean that big loan The snapped stud is sunken on the block by about an 8th of an inch..I need to drill and extract it. The stud on the drivers side #4 can be grabbed with a vice grip but when I was trying earlier its just rounding the threaded end...maybe i need to clamp it on thighter..I was getting tired after removing 9 studs with a vice grip. I have a few question though 1.)where does the hot air pick up pipe go to? (pic 1) 2.) Do i still have to use high temp sensor safe silicone sealer? 3.) do I just use clamps on the connection from right side manifold going to the Y pipe or should I have it welded? (pic2) I was dry fitting all the components tonigh including the bolts and it seems that the 8MM X 40MM bolt isnt going to work on a few stud location(pic 3) ..and theyre longer than the oem (pic 4).Has anyone used this bolts? I think using a 8MM X 30MM instead of 40MM bolt would be better...No need to use those thick washers and just use lock washers.

Well I manage to snap stud #1 on the drivers side I got some bolt extractor in 9/64 ..the square kind not the spiral. Also stud #4 on the passenger side would not come out...but the nut and the manifold is out..Tomorrow Im going to try one of those bolt and nut extractor..like a socket but has spiral teeth inside..soaked it with pb blaster some more and hopefully it works. any other tricks on taking the snapped stud out of there guys? Im also thinking of using a dremel and notch a slop on there and use a flathead screwdriver to get that out of there...will it hurt any if I hit the manifold surface on the engine block with the dremels cut off wheel? Thanks fellas

Thanks guys..Fel pro it is. Im going to follow the FSM on removing the bolts and re installing them in sequence and also the torque specs

Hey guys Im getting ready to do my thorleys and any suggestion is greatly appreciated. I have a few question also Im planning on using 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm / metric grade 5 bolts instead of the oem nut and stud....Do you guys think itll be ok for me to maybe go on a grade 8 bolt instead of a grade 5? Since I cant find a copper gasket for the manifold what brand or kind of gasket do you guys use?...I know that the one that came with the thorleys are crap...Ive checked for a gasket before and I can get a felpro I think..Is felpro any good? Thanks fellas

Hey guys I was looking at my thorley headers and on the sixth hole its almost covered by the thitd pipe.....did you guys thightened yours with a box end coz it doesnt look like I can get a socket in there

If you find the one behind the alty just look for the same exact 14MM brass bolt on the other side behind the power steering pump. That one youre going to need a long extension and may I suggest squirting some pb on there

No frame rust..Thats a plus...couldnt see any rust on the body.you shoulkd thoroughly check it for body rust like under the carpet Front valance (air dam)seems to be in tact it just the way they took the pic.

Where in Washington are you? If you decide to do it with your friend make sure you have a 1/2 breaker bar preferably about 22 inches long.(can be borrowed at autozone).it makes it a heck of a lot easier breaking loose those rearmost bolts. Get a couple of jumbo bottle jacks at walmart and if you decide not to keep them you can always return them. I did mine by myself. 2 of you should be able to do this.Just follow statikuz instruction ..oh yeah and a couple of 4X4 about 18inches long..You can find scrap ones at home depots cutting section for about a couple of dollar

A guy at autozone that has the same pathy and worked a lot on his truck also suggested that I pull the valve cover off to find my tdc

Whew...Thanks fellas.....Ok guys i got it to run smooth...I messed with the dizzy and now its at 15 btdc but i could not go below 10..Should I leave it alone...rpm is at 800 Another thing is when I rev it up it takes a while for it to go back down to idle @ 800

I took the dizzy out about a year ago coz I couldnt get me rotor out when I first did a tune up..It seized up. I got the timing belt installed and I mustve screwed something up...My marks are dead on both left and right cam pulleys and crankcase gear...counted the teeth again and its 40T from right cam pulley to left cam pulley and 43T from left cam pulley to crankcase gear....pulled the dizzy out and set it almost shooting straight to Cylinder 1....Adjusted my tensioner to 5:30 and 90deg flex on the belt....cranked the crankcase at full revolution few times and theres nothing binding however its got like a springy feel to it every 1/4 or maybe 1/2 a turn...Is it supposed to be like that or does it crank smooth all the way? Coz if it isnt Im screwed...I wrapped everything up and started it...It runs but it runs rough and I couldnt see my timing marks Thanks fellas

Thanks man.I got it set as close as possible to pointing at cyl1

Ok guys im working on my tbelt right now and everything lines up but the rotor is not facing cylinder 1? I counted my marks on the old tbelt and it is 40T from cam to cam and 43T form drivers side cam pulley to the crankcase pulley. Do I keep crankin it till it all lines up with the rotor facing cylinder 1? Could it also be that when I pulled my distributor before I didnt set it up properly? Thanks fellas