PATHRIDER

hey guys has anyone used NTK 02 sensor? Im about to order one on ebay for $59.96 plus $8.96 shipping.I think this is a pretty good deal coz I called around locally and was told that they can order it for $140 Its NTK 24005 for a 93 pathy according to NGK site. Thanks fellas

Make sure you put a zerk fitting on the calmini uca if you decide to get it.

get a spring tubing bender..it works great and cheap

Could be an intermittent problem...It happened to my pathy before and I ended up replacing the alty..You could also check the plug on that alty.

This was showed on DIRTY JOBS last week....pretty interesting stuff.This is good for the environment but money wise I dont think its any cheaper than gas...think about all the driving you have to do to collect all those used grease then the processing time ......For the environment I would use it

I have not thoroughly checked what UNC mentioned...However that darn clicking noise comes and goes..Im going to have to remove the drum soon as it warms up a bit here and I will definately keep you guys posted on what I find out It is not resolved yet and hoping to find out soon whats causing that click.

Im pretty sure its coming from the left rear tire Mr.P...I had the wife drive it and I was on the passenger side and couldnt hear it It didnt make that clicking noise before

Doesnt old man emu (hope got the name right) also makes a much beefier coils for our pathy?

Thanks UNC..sure appreciate it....Is that a specialized tool that the dealer carries or it can be rented at autozone? Another question is ..If its my bearing can I buy it from a local bearing shop or thats another dealer item? BTW I did the test that you mentioned and theres no play at all holding it 12-6 and rotated it 3-9...That thing is solid...Im going to do more inspection tomorrow

ok ...the problem is the bolt that I used is bottoming out behind the thread on the engine block....I went and got 8X25 or I couldve used the thick washers that came with the factory stud and nut on the 8X30 bolt that I already have which I think I shouldve done to begin with but I just remembered those washer on my way home from fasteners...now theyre all torqued to specs and no leak..Ill re torque it again in a few days

Thanks Martin..Ill let you know what the outcome is after re torquing all the bolts

Is this the tool UNC? I used this on my front bearing also.im assuming that theyre the same way in the back?

Do a body lift also if budget allows that way you have better chance of your tires not rubbing and itll make it a lot easier to do the thorleys install also. As for the backspacing,Stick with what everyone else used...I think its 3.75

Found out that my drivers side header is leaking..I swear I torqued it to specs (18 ft.lb).Do I still need to use some kind of sealant on there like ultra copper or high temp sensor safe silicone? Im using felpro gasket

Wouldnt the coil weaken when you heat it up to bend the top part to 4?

UNC I was being a smart arse..hahaha ...I call it chicken foot also but foghorn (leghorn) makes it sound more technical

On cleaning the gears I used crud cutter..works great..I used it on cleaning inside the timing belt housing in that area and wiped it dry with a terry cloth them I used a leaf blower to dry it real good...hair dryer would work too .

Thanks guys...It is a LSD Thomas..Im going to do the check you mentioned UNC...If it dies wabble Im going to pull the shaft out...That special tool that you mentioned.is that for pulling the bearing out of the shaft? I might have to take it to a shop to have it pressed out. Im going to take the bolts off behind it and just in case you guys arent around to answer another question Im going to ask you now I know I might have to take the drum off,Is there anything else that needs to come off? Thanks fellas

You dont want the sidewalls flush with the lip on those wide rims.I like my sidewalls sticking out thats why when I was doing my tire/rim shopping I matched almost every m/t out there and i find that the 31X10.50 on 15X8 combo just doesnt look right to me. If I was to go with a 10.5 tires id get a 15X7 rims...Just my .02 cents

Hey guys what would cause my rear tires or maybe my axle to make a clicking noise..It sounded like a rock stuck on my tire thread and I checked the thread and no rock there. Sounds like the bearing but not sure. How hard is it to pull the center rod out off the axle or whatever its called where the rims attaches to? Im looking at the FSM and nothing on there shows me how to take that off to check the bearing. Its a drum brake

checked all the clamps and theyre all tights but my gas cap is loose so i thightened it . It does fire right up after the first 4-5 tries when its been sitting for a while. Itll be sitting for a few days again when I work on my rear bearing and ill find out if its just the gas cap Thanks fellas

Mojaves are flat and has bigger holes not unless those are the newer version. It sure looks like its got teflon coating

Put all the bolts back on the harmonic balancer and leave 2 out adjacent to each other so you can put a longer bolts for the puller...get a foghorn puller though and longer bolts and nuts so you can adjust the depth....whether you buy or rent a puller it doesnt come with the proper size bolt in the kit...Get a bolt in 6X60(3inches) 1.0 pitch IIRC or bring one of the bolt you took off from the pulley with you to your local hardware store match one like that just longer

Im going to have to check on the fuel lines..I moved those lines so many time when I was installing my headers..thanks UNC

Hey guys after my pathys been sitting for almost a week now and I tried to start it a few days ago it didnt fire right up...after maybe 4 or 5 times it finally growled..is this normal? Thanks fellas