PATHRIDER

Thanks Martin..Ill let you know what the outcome is after re torquing all the bolts

Is this the tool UNC? I used this on my front bearing also.im assuming that theyre the same way in the back?

Do a body lift also if budget allows that way you have better chance of your tires not rubbing and itll make it a lot easier to do the thorleys install also. As for the backspacing,Stick with what everyone else used...I think its 3.75

Found out that my drivers side header is leaking..I swear I torqued it to specs (18 ft.lb).Do I still need to use some kind of sealant on there like ultra copper or high temp sensor safe silicone? Im using felpro gasket

Wouldnt the coil weaken when you heat it up to bend the top part to 4?

UNC I was being a smart arse..hahaha ...I call it chicken foot also but foghorn (leghorn) makes it sound more technical

On cleaning the gears I used crud cutter..works great..I used it on cleaning inside the timing belt housing in that area and wiped it dry with a terry cloth them I used a leaf blower to dry it real good...hair dryer would work too .

Thanks guys...It is a LSD Thomas..Im going to do the check you mentioned UNC...If it dies wabble Im going to pull the shaft out...That special tool that you mentioned.is that for pulling the bearing out of the shaft? I might have to take it to a shop to have it pressed out. Im going to take the bolts off behind it and just in case you guys arent around to answer another question Im going to ask you now I know I might have to take the drum off,Is there anything else that needs to come off? Thanks fellas

You dont want the sidewalls flush with the lip on those wide rims.I like my sidewalls sticking out thats why when I was doing my tire/rim shopping I matched almost every m/t out there and i find that the 31X10.50 on 15X8 combo just doesnt look right to me. If I was to go with a 10.5 tires id get a 15X7 rims...Just my .02 cents

Hey guys what would cause my rear tires or maybe my axle to make a clicking noise..It sounded like a rock stuck on my tire thread and I checked the thread and no rock there. Sounds like the bearing but not sure. How hard is it to pull the center rod out off the axle or whatever its called where the rims attaches to? Im looking at the FSM and nothing on there shows me how to take that off to check the bearing. Its a drum brake

checked all the clamps and theyre all tights but my gas cap is loose so i thightened it . It does fire right up after the first 4-5 tries when its been sitting for a while. Itll be sitting for a few days again when I work on my rear bearing and ill find out if its just the gas cap Thanks fellas

Mojaves are flat and has bigger holes not unless those are the newer version. It sure looks like its got teflon coating

Put all the bolts back on the harmonic balancer and leave 2 out adjacent to each other so you can put a longer bolts for the puller...get a foghorn puller though and longer bolts and nuts so you can adjust the depth....whether you buy or rent a puller it doesnt come with the proper size bolt in the kit...Get a bolt in 6X60(3inches) 1.0 pitch IIRC or bring one of the bolt you took off from the pulley with you to your local hardware store match one like that just longer

Im going to have to check on the fuel lines..I moved those lines so many time when I was installing my headers..thanks UNC

Hey guys after my pathys been sitting for almost a week now and I tried to start it a few days ago it didnt fire right up...after maybe 4 or 5 times it finally growled..is this normal? Thanks fellas

It looks real good right now but I think itll look even better if you put a curve on the side...make it shorter up front and it rises up towards the back

Go with thorleys chrome..i cant download mpeg right now but those headers are mean sounding.

I tried that combo before and it looked funny

ouch!! you need one of those fiberglass fender from AC

Whatever you do dont forget to buy nissan parts like the belt and tensioner...it only cost a few more dollars more than the generic one.

I was going to take it to them saturday but theyre close.Talked to Mike and he said just bring it in tomorrow.Ill give you a buzz tomorrow morning

I was able to take both my drain plug out the first time I did my rad service and come time to do my tbelt that sucker wouldnt come out anymore..I did the same thing you did Robbie ..2 days of pb blasting with no luck so I just left it

I wouldnt buy anything from sears anymore ..Them SOB charges 15% re stocking fee if you return a tool to them.What happened to that SATISFACTION GUARANTEE that theyre offering I agree with UNC,pawnshop is the way to go but you better do your research first on the tool that youre buying as far as pricing coz some pawnshop charges too much and you might think that youre getting a bargain coz its from a pawnshop. Youll still find older snap on tools at pawnshops that are american made not like the new ones snap-on truck sells that are made in china. another thing is if you buy a broken snap-on tools or mac even matco from a pawnshop and try to return it to a snap on dealer good luck in having it replaced unless you know that dealer.

Ridgid power tools has a lifetime warranty..cant beat that

Train youre going to need atleast 3 cans of PB on those