PATHRIDER

Cobalt tools that Lowes hardware store carries. better than snap-on IMO and you dont have to chase the snap-on truck everytime you need it replaced. I use Kennedy toolbox & craftsman and when Im working on the pathy I just put the tools I need in a nylon bag and sometimes I use my roolaway cart type

8X30MM works perfect as far as the bolts .I went with the 10.9 also instead of the 8.8 The broken stud came out easy..I think the secret to doing this is taking your time...I soaked it repeteadly with pb while I was extracting it. I used an IRWIN 9/64 square bolt extractor..Perfect size...Ive never had any luck using the spiral type. The EGR tube also went back in without having to fight to get it on there or need to be extended..Thanks Thomas for bringing that mini pipe wrench and helping me install that EGR pipe So far so good..It sounds mean...Im going to take it to a muffler shop monday and have a new cat and muff installed on 2.25 piping

no problem bud.I kinda figure your working on that secretary..I mean that big loan The snapped stud is sunken on the block by about an 8th of an inch..I need to drill and extract it. The stud on the drivers side #4 can be grabbed with a vice grip but when I was trying earlier its just rounding the threaded end...maybe i need to clamp it on thighter..I was getting tired after removing 9 studs with a vice grip. I have a few question though 1.)where does the hot air pick up pipe go to? (pic 1) 2.) Do i still have to use high temp sensor safe silicone sealer? 3.) do I just use clamps on the connection from right side manifold going to the Y pipe or should I have it welded? (pic2) I was dry fitting all the components tonigh including the bolts and it seems that the 8MM X 40MM bolt isnt going to work on a few stud location(pic 3) ..and theyre longer than the oem (pic 4).Has anyone used this bolts? I think using a 8MM X 30MM instead of 40MM bolt would be better...No need to use those thick washers and just use lock washers.

Well I manage to snap stud #1 on the drivers side I got some bolt extractor in 9/64 ..the square kind not the spiral. Also stud #4 on the passenger side would not come out...but the nut and the manifold is out..Tomorrow Im going to try one of those bolt and nut extractor..like a socket but has spiral teeth inside..soaked it with pb blaster some more and hopefully it works. any other tricks on taking the snapped stud out of there guys? Im also thinking of using a dremel and notch a slop on there and use a flathead screwdriver to get that out of there...will it hurt any if I hit the manifold surface on the engine block with the dremels cut off wheel? Thanks fellas

Thanks guys..Fel pro it is. Im going to follow the FSM on removing the bolts and re installing them in sequence and also the torque specs

Hey guys Im getting ready to do my thorleys and any suggestion is greatly appreciated. I have a few question also Im planning on using 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm / metric grade 5 bolts instead of the oem nut and stud....Do you guys think itll be ok for me to maybe go on a grade 8 bolt instead of a grade 5? Since I cant find a copper gasket for the manifold what brand or kind of gasket do you guys use?...I know that the one that came with the thorleys are crap...Ive checked for a gasket before and I can get a felpro I think..Is felpro any good? Thanks fellas

Hey guys I was looking at my thorley headers and on the sixth hole its almost covered by the thitd pipe.....did you guys thightened yours with a box end coz it doesnt look like I can get a socket in there

If you find the one behind the alty just look for the same exact 14MM brass bolt on the other side behind the power steering pump. That one youre going to need a long extension and may I suggest squirting some pb on there

No frame rust..Thats a plus...couldnt see any rust on the body.you shoulkd thoroughly check it for body rust like under the carpet Front valance (air dam)seems to be in tact it just the way they took the pic.

Where in Washington are you? If you decide to do it with your friend make sure you have a 1/2 breaker bar preferably about 22 inches long.(can be borrowed at autozone).it makes it a heck of a lot easier breaking loose those rearmost bolts. Get a couple of jumbo bottle jacks at walmart and if you decide not to keep them you can always return them. I did mine by myself. 2 of you should be able to do this.Just follow statikuz instruction ..oh yeah and a couple of 4X4 about 18inches long..You can find scrap ones at home depots cutting section for about a couple of dollar

A guy at autozone that has the same pathy and worked a lot on his truck also suggested that I pull the valve cover off to find my tdc

Whew...Thanks fellas.....Ok guys i got it to run smooth...I messed with the dizzy and now its at 15 btdc but i could not go below 10..Should I leave it alone...rpm is at 800 Another thing is when I rev it up it takes a while for it to go back down to idle @ 800

I took the dizzy out about a year ago coz I couldnt get me rotor out when I first did a tune up..It seized up. I got the timing belt installed and I mustve screwed something up...My marks are dead on both left and right cam pulleys and crankcase gear...counted the teeth again and its 40T from right cam pulley to left cam pulley and 43T from left cam pulley to crankcase gear....pulled the dizzy out and set it almost shooting straight to Cylinder 1....Adjusted my tensioner to 5:30 and 90deg flex on the belt....cranked the crankcase at full revolution few times and theres nothing binding however its got like a springy feel to it every 1/4 or maybe 1/2 a turn...Is it supposed to be like that or does it crank smooth all the way? Coz if it isnt Im screwed...I wrapped everything up and started it...It runs but it runs rough and I couldnt see my timing marks Thanks fellas

Thanks man.I got it set as close as possible to pointing at cyl1

Ok guys im working on my tbelt right now and everything lines up but the rotor is not facing cylinder 1? I counted my marks on the old tbelt and it is 40T from cam to cam and 43T form drivers side cam pulley to the crankcase pulley. Do I keep crankin it till it all lines up with the rotor facing cylinder 1? Could it also be that when I pulled my distributor before I didnt set it up properly? Thanks fellas

Thanks guys..I couldnt have done all the mods I did if it wasnt for you guys help. Thorleys next since I can easily access them bolts now.

Thanks for the quick reply guys...check the oil and no coolant there....temp stays steady and the coolant is level however my water pump is making some weird noise...Ill replace it today and the TBelt Driving it last night it drove the same and no lack of power How do I burp the air out? Im going to flush it again today so I can pull the radiator out to do my TBelt and water pump. Would a blown head gasket make the engine run rough too coz mine runs just the same after it overheated on me. What else should I look for besides the water in the oil and white smoke to determine that I have a blown head gasket?

The 12MM bolt is on and thight. The smoke went away last night but this morning when I started it back up theres a little coming out still...Ill check the oil...Could it be that I used undiluted coolant? I forgot to mix it 50/50 with water

Before doing my body lift the other day I decided to completely flush my radiator. After finishin the lift and filled up all my fluids I decided to take it for a test drive and about 10 mins later it overheated on me..Pulled over at walmarts parking lot and decided to check the rad and carefully opened up the cap and it sure was hot. Bought a couple of gallon of coolant and filled it back up, I have the motor running while I was filling it up and I noticed that theres white smoke coming out of my exhaust pipe and lots of it. I immidiately turned the motor off and waited another 10 mins. Started it back up with the rad topped off of coolant and my temp gauge went back down to half but theres still that white smoke coming out... I decided to just drive it home and that took another 10 mins of driving but halfway home I decided to stop by a gas station to check and see if its still smoking and it wasnt. Could that white smoke just from the engine overheating? What I did to fluish my rad was Open the drain plug on the rad Took off like a 12MM bolt on the engine block on both sides,drivers side just below the alternator and pasenger side just behind the power steering pump loosened up the pressure release After all the fluid was drained I thightened the pressure release and the drain plug Filled the radiator back up Did I do this properly?

Thanks guys..Looking at the front bumper mount on the chasis it looks like I wouldnt be able to mount another bracket on there.I could probably use the top bumper mounts but above that theres nothing to mount another brackets to

Well folks thanks for all your tech advices on doing a body lift..It wasnt so bad at all...finished it in 3 hours and another 4 putting all my hoses back in and re checking everything...just have to figure out a way to mount the bumpers on . Now I can also see all the bolts for the manifold 3+3 33X12.5X15

Any trick on remounting the bullbar after doing a body lift and raising the bumper guys?

Hey guys what color is the factory amp turn on lead on a 1993 pathfinder? If someone has a wiring diagram please post I really need to get my deck hooked up tonight Thanks fellas

Got it done...Real simple with the proper wheel bearing lock nut tool. Luckily I asked you guys first about this coz if I wouldve followed stupid haynes manual I wouldve been screwed on the torque spec. Thanks again guys..

Thanks for that real helpful post man