deej

I got to looking at some of the diagrams and my Pathfinder is a 1998 so I'm thinking http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/1639...4-p-196302.html is the part number. It looks like they never made the part you listed until 1999, could I be wrong?

Thanks, so yours is leaking coolant as well? If that is indeed the part, you just saved me a ton of $$

That could be it, I'm gonna look into it a bit further....come to think of it, it has been sucking the fuel lately, I thought that might just be the -50 celcius we've been experiencing lately. Anyone want to send some heat up this way? "Hi" to you to Slick, I'm blushing....

Help me, the stealership says I've got an antifreeze leak and they need to replace the wax pot(??) at $190 parts and $90 labor. They also said it has to do with the idle and that it is common at 200,000 KMS (120,000 miles) which I have on my 3.3l. Where do I start to look if I want to replace it myself? Any ideas on what the real name of this mysterious part is? BTW- good to be back. I'll be submitting a "Replacing the rear control arm bushings" thread soon for those with the death wobble....

My schematic in the Haynes Manual has cruise, the horn and the interior light all on the same page so it sounds like you're in the right area. Pick up a Haynes manual if you can, if you can't I can try and scan mine in and post it for you but it might take some time. Do any of the doors turn on the dome light or does it stay off no matter which door is opened? The clutch problem sounds like a throw out bearing as was mentioned previously. Oh and 220,000 kms and still running strong for me. Enjoy the new Pathfinder!

Yup, sounds fishy....mainly because I do not know what it is suppose to actually do. I use the Garmin Streetpilot C330, works great.

I got mine receiver attached to the blank switch panels in the center consol, that way when I take it out I can just replace two panels and you'ld never know it was there. The antenna sits in the center of the roof at the rear of the Pathy.

All that stuff you listed is little stuff really, there are starting to be alot of those parts at the wreckers in good shape for a decent price. I thought my 98 was getting ratty too and two quick trips to the wreckers and $100 later, I felt like I had a new Pathy. I even made a family trip out of it

$115 Canadian but I don't have the OEM number with me right now

Cell phone with a full battery and toilet paper

Got yer e-mail, still kickin' and lookin' forward to the new location ...........

This one seems to keep coming up and I'm wondering if a "sticky" is in order? Here's an R50 description. It could probably go under the "Garage" section too....not sure

I got ten bucks on the switch

:bow: Thank you for the awesome pics!

Yup, I totally get you The Pathy had 119,000 kms (70 kmiles?) when I got it, the struts were the originals and leaking. I've got 180,000 kms now and they aren't leaking yet. The reason they said they never put new boots on when they replaced the struts was because they were fine then. The way I see it is if the $35 boots were suppose to be "protecting" their new struts, they should have replaced them when they replaced the struts. The warrantee, AFAIK, is only on manufacturers defects of the strut which should be pretty easy to identify if they fail (including leaking), they should not leak if they were built right, with or without the boot (a glorified "dust cover"). All in all, Nissan is usually pretty good with their products and that's who would here from me if the stealership tries to get in the way...... Oh yeah, they can blow the $400 "boot job" out of their a$$!

When I first got my Pathy 4 years ago, it needed new struts so I had the dealership put in new lifetime warrantee parts and labor genuine Nissan struts. I took it in the other day and they said both strut boots were cracked open and I asked how much if I had them replace them, they said about $400 parts and labor so I said "they should be covered by my strut warrantee", they said "no, they aren't" so I asked "would leaving them the way they are void my strut warrantee?", they said "it might" Should I have to pay to have the strut boots replaced? The way I see it, those boots are NOT a sealed unit and all they do is protect the shaft from scuffs that could wreck the strut. All of the boot is still there, it's just cracked open. I've done struts before on other vehicles and it's a bigger PITA than I want to do right now but I don't want to have to fight with the dealership if the struts ever need replacing. Is this a "cut and dry" REPLACE THEM BOOTS or would I have a legit arguement if the struts need to be replaced by warrantee?

I wanna bank with Rivermark now but no actual crash vid for me either

U-joints? Grab your front driveshaft (and the rear for that matter) and give them a good reefing side to side and up and down, there should be no "play".

Hope you heal up quick. Like 88 says, you are lucky in a couple ways.....it could have been worse AND you can sue the bastage.

Well said Hang in their peoples, we'll make you feel all warm and fuzzy, like, well.........members. The best way to get recognized is not on the Members page anyway, the sure way to get recognition is entering the "Truck of the Month" contest with a super duper "stuck" pic.....I'ld vote for ya or better yet, order a NPORA sticker when they become available again *fingers crossed*

Then refer to this \/

I finally got my Pathy back :bow: It looks pretty good and nothing like a hour long trip to make me realize how much I really missed it! There's still a couple little things like a clip for the corner marker and the real heated driverside mirror, they got a jobber on there till the real one comes in. I even got to tug an old guy with a cane in a CRV out of a snowbank on my way home, that was kinda fun.

One of my remotes died 2 months ago and I tried this and...........IT WORKED like a charm! I'll add one thing though, when you insert and remove the key it says not to rush it, I had to give 'er to get it to work but it lets you know before you turn the key to accessary by clicking if you did it enough times in the 10 sec period. Other than that everything works exactly as printed. Thanks guys

http://www.wilsonantenna.com/ is a suggestion, as well as http://www.firestik.com/ Both are proven and there are numerous distributors around the US, do some price comparison, they may cost more but with antennas the general rule of thumb is not "do they work", but "do they work better" Try and stay away from window mounts or Through-Glass Antannas based on the above quotations Hope this helps

I'm a big fan of an Off Road Club Membership, reason being: If a club goes out, you are wheeling with several buddies that can help when you are in trouble instead of "ripping" up the ground trying to get out of a stuck. Also, most of the destruction to the trails is caused by a few bad apples that don't care if the trail gets closed.....they'll just go somewhere else to tear sh!t up. A club has a good way of either teaching responsible wheeling or sorting out the troublemakers. Alot of the people that are closing trails, close them because they have no idea who's using the trails. If they know what club(s) are using the trails or area, they usually take up concerns with the club and issues get sorted out. Responsible wheelers in an area clean up, repair, maintain and value the land they wheel on so it's there for future generations. Get involved in your local clubs