mechanicalbaron

Maybe because of the difference in years? Mine is a 90 with a 5 speed manual. Is yours a automatic? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Blue one in the middle with the two connector plugs. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Most cars come with one for emissions testing and inspection. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

My first thought was a wheel cylinder. Wasn't sure if you had a drum brake model. Being you just had brakes done and now your losing fluid, I would look under the rear at the backing plates and see if anything is wet around the wheel cylinder or bottom of the plate. If they are leaking and your losing that much fluid you should see something. The oil on the right front frame rail likely is from the power steering return hose or radiator /cooler like the others mentioned. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Love those old broncos, wish I had one. I think maybe you took my post out of context. To produce the horse power and torque numbers you want from a vg30 I'm not sure is possible with a naturally aspirated engine. Seems that the best way to go with our older pathfinders is a vg33 swap. I am curious if with a more aggressive cam, higher compression, remapped ecm, and maybe some port work on the heads what kind of numbers could be achieved. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The vg30de is a dual overhead cam engine. Although it shares the vg designation it's a different beast. Keep in mind that 4wd vehicles benefit more from torque than horsepower. For me the question is how can I get more torque from this little engine? Other than doing a vg33 swap. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I've never had to replace rear suspension bushings on a WD21 in the 10 years working at a Nissan dealer, r50's all the time for some reason. After replacing all of my shocks that was the first thing that came to mind was the rear bushings. It was after a quick trip offroading that I realized that after airing down my tires that the wobble was gone, after driving it for a couple weeks at a tire pressure of 26 psi never had it happen again until I put the pressure back to 40 psi. I do realize that wear and tear is dependent on the geographic region you reside. Out here seems to destroy anything that is rubber. Still haven't replaced my rear bushings, it's on the "to do" list. However I agree that closely inspecting the rear link bushings should be the first step in isolating this type of problem. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

When I first got mine it would randomly get a wobble when going over certain bumps on the freeway, like bridge overpasses. The only way to stop it was to either let off the gas or stab the throttle. After replacing all the shocks I assumed it was from the rear axle link bushings but none were blown out. I found that when running my tire pressure at 26 psi that it went away. I usually run mine at 40 psi. Which didn't make any sense to me but it worked. I ended up replacing all the bushings in the front suspension with polyurethane and went back to 40 psi tire pressure. Hasn't happened again. So try running your tire pressure at 26 psi for a while if you aren't already and see if that helps. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Mine is a WD21, won't work on yours. Check the garage section. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Yeah feeling much better Lol, I literally almost had a stroke when I saw the shipping. And was a little leary after ordering the idler arm brace. But realistically AC seems to be one of the few places to get upgrades for the older pathy's. Guessing you can't put a price on love...? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I'll say it, AC straight up bends you over on their shipping! They should include Vasaline or KY jelly with your order! When I was going to order 4 shocks for mine it was $70. For shipping. I ended up searching part numbers ( On NPORA) and ordered all, cost $1.00 more per shock and with Amazon prime had free 3 day shipping. When I purchased my idler arm brace they charged $15.00 shipping and it took over 3 weeks to get the part. Booooo on AC! Lol, feel much better now[emoji4] Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

If you go to a dealership you will pay a premium and honestly we don't rebuild these very often anymore. The precise 1 is correct on what the problem is, the bulletin is to replace the trans case that has a updated fill hole location that is about 1 inch above the original. Find a reputable trans shop that is well established to replace all the bearings and whatever else may be damaged and make sure they reference the bulletin so they at a minimum can put the right amount of manual trans fluid ( GL4) in it Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You've never driven in LA before, have you B.? Lol. I agree, and in a way disagree. Keep in mind I'm learning as I work on my pathfinder even though I've been at Nissan over 9 years. What I found with mine was the rear Springs were sagged really bad. Replaced them with OME and got 1 and 3/4 lift. But had negative caster. Then I replaced all the front suspension bushings with polyurethane and adjusted the torsion bars to level it front to rear. Had way negative camber and caster afterwards. Bought longer uca bolts and some washers to get it aligned where I was happy with the results. Lastly was able to buy some AC uca's used and after installing them went back to all the stock length bolts and reshimed to bring alignment into where I was happy with ( spent a lot of time on our alignment rack). I found the end result in my case being vehicle level front to rear, more down travel in the front, way better ride off the pavement and dropping into holes or sharp bumps(like going over a speed bump to fast ). However I have the luxury of a full shop/dealer at my disposal to play around with setup on mine. But generally I 150% agree that going that route for the average guy is time and money that can be better spent on more necessary repairs. Lastly I really like your pathfinder, love that color. Seems like all the ones out here are red or white. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I've heard that referred to as a welch plug. Seen a few leaking over the years including mine. They can be really difficult to remove. If you can get it out reseal it with a liquid Teflon sealant. If you can't get it out (forgive me please guys!) Seal it with JB weld. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

When we get some rain I'll message you and see if we can't set up a day trip to rower flats or gorman. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The only benefit would be down travel. And the suspension will only extend as much as the shock will let it. I have AC upper arms with stock length shocks and the bump stops removed. Doesn't fully extend where the arm contacts the frame. Eventually plan on low profile bump stops and longer Rancho shocks front and rear to gain max down travel. As it sits the suspension works really well. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Was able to find the website today, was searching a bit. Grassroots4x4LLC.com. $229.00 plus return your old center link. Really considering this upgrade. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I hope that he did too. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Just going to throw this out there because I've seen it. If you did not get the cam sprocket aligned with the dowl pin on a camshaft, torque it and collapse the pin, the sprocket can go out of "time" and damage the camshaft and even the head. Hope this did not happen! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

With my pathfinder I've put a good amount of money into it but with where I work and what I do it's still a lot cheaper than a car payment and much more rewarding. [emoji4] Realistically though I'm in the same boat as everyone else and tend to overthink problems with my own vehicle because it's out of my pocket. And again it can be extremely difficult to help with problems when you cannot see, listen, and feel what is going on. Hope that the distributor is the last thing you have to replace and you can enjoy the pathfinder. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I've been using mobile one 5/30 synthetic since I got mine. Had about 176k, have had no issues with leaks. I figure if mobile one synthetic oil is the recommended oil for many high performance and high line vehicles that it is best long term. However I still stick to a 3000 MI oil change schedule. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Ummmmmm, should of checked that thing a long time ago. That optical sensor tell the ecm when to fire (ground) the injectors and works with the coil and transistor. Which is why I kept asking if you pulled it out and checked that the shaft spins freely without resistance. I would probably put a used one in if it checked out ok and was really cheap. It looks like you finally isolated you main issue and soon will be able to enjoy your pathfinder. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Wish I could be more helpful, a lot easier when you have it in front of you and can actually see what is happening. There are a lot of good feedback on this post from the other members. Best of luck. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Esm=electronic service manual. Also called assist. I could also have overlooked K ohm spec. Not at work right now to double check but I think I did. As I understand it you can download the manual from NPORA. and verify that spec. Did you remove the distributor and check that the shaft turns freely? Quick and simple test and you need to eliminate that as a possibility. I've seen a lot of problems with the shaft bearings. And one last though, pull off the cap and have a friend crank it over to make sure the rotor is turning ( referring to no spark). Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I work at the dealer, looked up in the esm while I was at work today. If you bought one might as well put it in and check if it's helped. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk