mechanicalbaron

I was thinking about that, the sleeve and pin would have to be hardened somehow. And long term I'm not sure about wear and tear. But after looking at the jeep setup I was thinking that is brilliant, how can you simplify that setup?, seems like sway bar disconnect is a major benefit to pathfinder's. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I've been entertaining an idea that I got when working on my brothers jeep. Newer jeeps have a electronic disconnect on the front sway bar. That being said my idea is to basically pull off the bar, cut it in half, install a sleeve, weld it on one side, reinstall it and drill a hole through the non-welded side for a pin or bolt to be installed. Seems like a clean way to make a disconnect and not have to worry about the hardware when off road. The two downsides I see are noise and getting the pin or bolt back in when your done wheeling. Any thoughts on this? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

These are the two connectors that injector resistance can be measured and these pics are from a 97 pathfinder that was in the shop today. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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Ahaha, dogonnat, I was thinking a 3.0L, you sir are right on the money. The only thing I would disagree with is ohming out the injectors. Can be done through the harness on the right valve cover connector. Gotta work tomorrow so I'll look that up. I was thinking 3.0 for t-belt replacement but 3.3L is 100k. For some reason I was thinking 95 model year. However the fundamentals remain the same. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Your coming up on the millage fur a t-belt replacement. 60k IIRC, compression test would be the easiest way to check. But if the long start is fixed then you probably should look more into the misfire issue. Do you smell gas? Can you check injector resistance? If you look under the intake behind the distributor does the injector connector look ok? Those connectors are known to get corroded, had to replace all of mine. Compression test still wouldn't hurt, I'm sure you can get a cheap tester at harbor freight. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

There are lots of things that I was looking at, disregard the crank sensor, that is only used for OBD II missfire per the ESM. If it was a ECCS relay then it wouldn't matter if you use a starting fluid to help start. And it seems that you've covered mostly everything else. You have to look at what the engine needs to fire, compression, spark and proper timing for a 4 stroke engine. If you downloaded the ESM there is a chart for symptom diagnostics for long start when hot. However there is nothing that touches on timing belts being off timing. I've seen problems resulting from that causing misfire, long cranking time and rough running. Deal with stuff like this alot and at the point your at that is the next thing I would look at. Not saying that's your problem, however it should be ruled out. Additionally if when the engine is running at idle and you can hear a rattle from the timing cover or distributor area you need to ret the timing belt. And a factory belt is what I would recommend. Ask for value advantage from nissan. Hope that helps. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Did a little research on your problem, and after reading through the thread and looking at the esm at work I would like to throw out there that maybe the timing belt is off one tooth on one of the cam sprockets or possibly the cam sprockets are swapped? Both can certainly cause your problem. Easy enough to check as one side (bank) of the engine will have less compression than the other side. But this is just a random thought. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Oil is typically thicker when cold, thicker oil results in higher oil pressure. If you have low pressure and noise even when off idle then that is not a good sign. And an indication of a major lack of oil changes, that engine it's really resilient to going over the recommended service schedule. However I have seen a couple random bearing failures over the years. Unfortunately it would be best to take it to a pro for further diag. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Is the issue at idle? Does the oil pressure increase off idle? If that is the case it is possible that the vtc passage plates have lost part if the gaskets. Usually will set codes P0011 and P0021. And turn on the MIL. Worn cam, main, and rod bearings will cause the same symptom. If it's all the time then you have serious problems. Thats when you need to look at the oil pickup. Also feedback on what you end up finding the cause to be will help others searching the forum looking for help. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Pm me, I'm local and look at it for you. Besides I need someone to wheel with, the jeep I go with Jeeps breaking down! Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Apparently there are not a whole lot of people in La, Ventura or San Bernardino county on NPORA. Ohh well, looks like I'm stuck going with Jeeps that break down Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Well??? Any follow-up on what you found? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Very cool, one day when my pathfinder grows up I want to do that. Looks like so much fun! Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Lol, GTR pages, that's a whole different level. Great cars but people that own them are the experts. Every body else are not worthy. I despise working on R35's. The cars are awesome, owners.....not so much=) Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

If the pathfinder sounds like a semi truck that is a good indication that the fan clutch is working. Even if it sounds like that when cold and never changes when hot. The most simple thing to check is air restriction ( is there leaves, dirt, plastic bags etc. ) blocking the condenser/radiator. Second would be the thermostat, the best way to test it is to remove it and inspect, put it in a pot of water and boil the water. Should open when the water gets to boiling point. However for the effort I would just replace it. Last is the radiator. When the pathfinder is cool! Remove the radiator cap and look at the rows inside, is there calcification( looks kind of like white rocks or mineral deposits forming around the rows). Calcification in the radiator will restrict flow and inhibit heat transfer resulting in overheating. If the radiator is copper/brass it can be cleaned/ rodded out. If its aluminum you will need to replace it. If you have a copper/brass style radiator I would recommend keeping it amd having it cleaned instead of replacing it with a aluminum radiator. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

$300 dollars an hour? Holy crap! I need to move! Replacing is not a big deal. Disconnect the negative battery cable and with a little common sense and mechanical inclination not a difficult repair. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

What kind of bushings are you installing? OEM it polyurethane? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Putting polyurethane bushings in the front of mine was the biggest improvement I've had yet! Only downfall us noise. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Drove to work and back. Played with the radio and enjoyed my ride. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Mine would get hot driving up grades, especially with the a.c. on. Last week I pulled the radiator and had it rodded out and cleaned. Much better. But basics first, make sure there it's coolant in it. And precise is spot on. You can remove the radiator cap and see if there is scale in the tank, I've seen gauge senders give false readings etc. I'm betting on the radiator being plugged by how you've described this. Cost me $85 to have it cleaned but I had to take it out and bring it to him. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Yes he did!

Clutches are a lot if fun in these. Lol.

Yeah, we don't have inspections, but smog fer sure. It's not that bad. Guess the pathfinder coming along?

Wow! Glad I'm in California, stuff like that isn't much of a problem here.