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mechanicalbaron

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Everything posted by mechanicalbaron

  1. Replace it. Nissan has a bulletin on lifter noise. However without hearing it not certain that's what is wrong. More common it's warped exhaust manifolds causing the studs to break which sounds more like what you have, noise will reduce when it gets hot where a typical lifter bleed down noise would go away after a few seconds to minutes after being started.
  2. I've found that when using my cell with the taptalk app that I can upload pics from my gallery (Android). However I cannot with photobucket using "img" on my cell. But I'm also a newbie and still trying to find my way around.
  3. I would add that the code mentioned is an.OBD II non continuous monitor. Meaning that if the code is cleared that it may need to driven several times before the engine computer will run the code diagnostics again. However this is an great write up for an common problem for this model pathfinder.
  4. The first thing I would do is the timing belt! Just replace it. I prefer factory ones personally. That is an interference motor and if it skips timing it will bend valves. I just got my 90 SE about a year ago and love it. Enjoy.
  5. Not really, just try to get as much out as possible, not sure if any one else has any suggestions. But very important to change the oil when your done.
  6. That's a real bummer, sludge is not a good sign. And unfortunately trying to clean it out can cause other problems. As far as oil flow to the valve train make sure you unplugged all the coils(in case you only pulled one valve cover) so it will not start. Have a buddy crank the engine while you look at the cams etc.. You will want to see a reasonable amount of oil flowing around all the cam lobes and caps. If you see one area that's not getting sufficient oil to it that is likely causing noise. If the cam "buckets" can't get sufficient oil they can wear into the head and bind when the cam pushes the valve down. That being said, I'm sure that there are a lot if different opinions on my next thought based off what you are describing. If the valves are out if adjustment, why? That design does not typically need to be serviced. If you remove all the sludge you can get to, I personally would immediately change the oil and filter, run the engine until it's at operating temp and drain the oil only, refill it with fresh oil and run again until at operating temp then change the oil and filter again. Reason being is to try to flush out any debris left from removing the sludge. I would not use a flush to try to clean it. Lastly oil pressure, there's oil passage plates on the rear timing cover that van blow out the gaskets causing low oil pressure at idle and starving the top end of oil, thats why checking oil pressure is so important. However that will typically cause codes p0011 @ p0021 intake valve timing. Hope that helps. Real bummer about the sludge though.
  7. Your are correct depending on the year, after 08/2001 the went to a shimless type. Before tearing into the engine I would make sure oil is full, oil pressure is ok (15 psi at idle, 43 at 2000 rpm), if ok then check valve clearance and make sure you're getting oil to the top end/valvetrain.
  8. No and no. In order to remove the " buckets" on the valves you will need to remove the cams. Removing the cams will require removing the timing chain cover. Realistically you need to pull the cams and buckets and inspect all to check for wear, however maybe make sure the oil level is ok prior to anything.
  9. Thanks, there is no rust at all, but being in the south west we take a beating from Sun and heat on the rudder parts and interior.
  10. Agreed, even with the discounts I get I'm dumbfounded on the cost of some of the parts. Frustrating when you are trying to keep an older vehicle maintained.
  11. As a dealer mechanic I realize that dealer prices are high, however you have to consider several things when going to a dealer. The mechanic only makes a small part of the labor rate, the dealership has a lot of overhead cost, and the people whom you are dealing with don't set the prices. Unfortunately it is difficult to be competitive with smaller shops. However if you can find a good independent shop that does quality work and you trust I strongly recommend going to them! There are a lot of awesome independent shops out there! And word of mouth is the best reference.
  12. My 90 pathfinder has 4 wheel disk brakes, however no rear wheel ABS. But I got auto AC =) Not sure the production date in it though.
  13. Working on uploading pics. This is the box of goodies I ordered and put in.
  14. Hope this works for an image. We'll see.
  15. Yep, polyurethane, oops. Kind of mix and match between prothane and energy suspension. Just finished replacing all the bushings. A lot easier than I thought it would be. Worst part was the alignment. We don't have any shims so had to substitute with washers. Drives so much better!
  16. Going to order the 2 piece set, a little bit cheaper. Today I'm getting my practice on the front upper and lower control arms, burning out the rubber and installing neoprene. Nothing better that the smell of burning rubber in the morning.
  17. Huge thanks to adamzan and precise1, checked out automotive customizers and they have exactly what I'm looking for.... Originally I was looking at the first reply by adamzan and thought that he was referring to rugged rocks which is whom I got my rear springs from. Later realized that he posted a link to A. C. That being said, have either of you guys done that upgrade? Do you recommend using the 2 piece bushings or the single bushing? Being a dealer mech I have little knowledge of which is best.
  18. This is where I got my OME rear coil springs from, called and chatted with the guy for a bit. Super nice dude! I'll have to give him a call again as the rear link bushings were an afterthought. Highly recommend this place.
  19. Has anyone tried installing neoprene bushings to replace the factory rubber link bushings? Not able to find any online.
  20. Thank you! And I've been trying, however I'm using an Android cell and have little access to a computer(thanks to the wife and daughter). I will get some pics soon. I'm definitely willing to help with technical problems as much as possible. However being at a dealer I'm ignorant to the off road community and modifications. Therefore that is why I'm here. Maybe I can help out some people and maybe they can help me.
  21. Sorry but NO, well maybe if you have enough BEER=)
  22. Most likely you need new fuel injectors. The best way to test/check is to measure the injector resistance at each one. You are looking for about 12 and 1/2 ohms per injector. Measure through the harness connectors on passenger valve cover, if they are not all close and equal then removing the upper intake and inspecting the connection at each injector is necessary, look for green corrosion. If ok remeasure resistance at each individual injector to confirm. Best to do the first check cold and then when engine is at operating temp. If for example five injectors are at 11.7 ohms and one is at 36.4 ohms then you have isolated the problem. Of course make sure no vacuum leaks, mass air flow sensor not contaminated with air filter oil(K&N), fuel pressure regulator hose at rear of intake is ok, etc.
  23. Greetings. I'm Brion. Just joined the forum. I've seen it online several times while searching for info on pathfinders. I've been a Nissan mechanic for almost 9 years and have gained a great respect for the product. I have recently acquired a 90 pathfinder and have fallen in love with it. Having had three other Nissans (09 frontier,11 altima and most recent 14 Rogue) the pathfinder is my favorite. I've worked out all the bugs and I'm ready to start customizing it to suite my needs. When I can figure out how to get some pics on the forum I will be sure to.
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