CDN_S4

Thanks for that info. Yeah the hose was held on by a zap strap and then the open end was tucked into the unibody frame. I put it back that way after I disconnected it to drop my axle to replace the springs. As for the water, yes, the rear resonator. It might be helpful to know that I chopped the tail end of the exhaust pipe (post resonator) off as it was pointed at my bumper and was melting it. The stubby end might have allowed water to get in. The make is Quiet Flow and I didn't see any drain holes, so I made one lol. The water that poured out was very clean, which I found odd. I expected it to be rusty, brown or even black. Not crystal clear. Still can't ID the source of the rattle. I've asked the wife to drive it tomorrow so I can try to pin point its source. I might try to take a video of it tomorrow, maybe someone has dealt with this before.

Phew ...that's good news then, I was afraid it was going to bad news as usually a hose not connected to anything isn't usually good. I also had a bunch of water slushing around in the resonator as I was shaking it to see if the noise was coming from there. Thought that was weird since I haven't been using AC at all.

Nice designs!! Still no luck on this noise. I would describe it as something loose inside the door that knocks side to side. But when I shake the door by itself it's completely solid. While I was changing the springs, I noticed this line here, and when I pulled on it it came out of the frame, seemingly sitting in there not attached to anything. What is it?!

Yes that's an awesome idea too, seen a couple like that. Only thing is you have to undo both swing outs each time you want to open the trunk. That's the only downside I see to those. I already use my rear window as trunk access as much as possible to avoid swigging out the carrier each time. I sketched around a big tonight with some ideas, pretty hard to put thoughts to paper lol but this is what came out. Nothing is to scale either, these are just idea sketches.

I'm also going to redesign the spare carrier. I'll actually build it into the bumper. Remove the jerry can holders, offset the tire carrier and set it next to the carriers. So really I'm building a rear bumper out of it. I just don't like how far it sticks out of the hitch.

Haha yes I get what you're saying. I already thought about that. Instead of leaving those areas open, I would add filler plates to cover the ugly parts. It's just to give an idea of what I'm after. Well definitely let me know if you can identify that rattle. I can't seem to replicate it while stationary. If there is something in this world that can drive me nuts, it's unknown rattles lol.

Thanks. I like it a lot better than having had it on the driver seat. Since I installed the the new springs though I am getting the weirdest rattle coming from the rear driver side door it seems. And it sounds like glass on metal. I can't seem to source it as when I try to shake the door itself, if makes no sound. Also climbed up on the tire and shook it and again no sound. Only when I'm actually driving it. It has me stumped right now. As far as the OME springs go, they feel great, not too stiff and not soft. Stiff almost seems to give the wrong impression, I would sooner say they feel stronger. Definitely upper my load capacity quite a bit as they hardly even seemed to budge when I put the carrier back on. Got some rake now so I'll have to focus on raising the front. However my main effort is to get a new front bumper made. I'm leaning towards a more tubular design, nothing too bulky as that is exatly what I hate about the face lifted R50. It reminds me too much of a Hyundai Santa Fe when I see them in oncoming traffic. This is along the lines of what I have in mind.

Found some Festoon LED bulbs I had laying around so with a little bit of convincing I made them fit. Also took off the seat cover and used only the molle back part as trunk organizer. Tow strap/kit, first aid, axe, maglite, straps, and some random emergency equipment. First aid bag is not strapped down for quick grab and run.

The bolts are "pressed" into the strut? Are they just seized in there? Pics might help, but sounds like they need some convincing. Have you tried hammering them out?

Thanks. Yeah I have spacers front and back. Figured I need new springs up front. I was suprised to see that the OME springs were a tad shorter than the original, and don't appear much thicker either. But they are stiffer. Here is the final product, 2" spacer plus 1.75" coil lift with extended Bilstein shocks. My front seems so low now. It will balance out a bit more when I put the tire carrier back on it tomorrow.

Finally received the right OME rear MD springs. Attempting to install today. My front seems really saggy despite new struts. I might have to get new coils. I was thinking to go with MOOG replacement coils as they are available in Canada while imports and the weak Loonie right now are making shopping in the US hard to justify. Anyone else have experience with them? Also, this might be a stupid question, but is there something like a Torsion Bar re-indexing available for the R50 as there is on the WD21?

Was it sold from a dealer or a private sale? Private sale, this could be trickier as it would be hard to prove if the PO knew about it. You can sell a vehicle "as is", usually you would declare all damages/repairs to any buyer. This would suggest that you are "allowed" to sell it.

I want one of these just to hang pouches from it and stuff. Maybe attach a shovel to it.

Pics of your dash and CB would help. Maybe the in dash size cobra might be your best bet unless you want to cut or screw into things. Which you will still have to with the cobra lol, but that's just cutting out blank button frames.

Found some sources say 30's others 70's...Nitto website doesn't seem to give a weight. Maybe I need to access the full site from a computer, not a phone. Anybody happen to have these tires and know for a fact?

Oh yah?! Interesting. I got the info off of 1010Tires.com. Considered them a pretty good source of info, but mistakes happen. It was too good to be true to weigh half of most and 10ls less than Duratracs. Dammit... Those were gonna be my next tire mostly for that reason. I'll do some more cross referencing of the data provided, but I'm afraid you are probably right.

Firestone Destination MT - 61lbs Nitto Trail Grappler M/T - 31 lbs Goodyear Duratracs - 48 lbs Toyo Open Country M/T - 72.8 lbs BFG T/A KM2 - 48.2 lbs Cooper Discoverer - 60 lbs Found it really interesting how HUGE the differences in weight are for a tire of the same dimensions, in the same classification, Light Truck, All Season, off-road. Even the lightest tire has reinforced 3 ply sidewalls.

The ashtray light was the easiest of all to install. - pop out the ashtray insert - remove screw from bottom - lift the assembly out enough to be able to pop out the light assembly held in only by 2 prongs - pull out old bulb, replace with new bulb and reinstall. - no more than 5 minutes and only tool needed is a Philips screws driver.

Hey Kyle, the red LED is the 74-R and it is really bright!! Maybe your plastic lens is dirty? And yes, the defroster and warning light buttons do illuminate.

I compared them on 1010tires.com all available in 33's x 12.5 /15

Nobody seems to talk about weight here. I compared the BFG's, duratracs, geo lander, Toyo Open country MT and the Nitto Trail grapplers. The Nittos were the only one weighting 30lbs, the Goodyears and BFG about 40 and all others 60!! Now I'm doing this post by memory sorry boys and girls, but the idea is still valid. To me it seems that a tire that weighs half of that of another, even if it is a bit pricier or isn't THE best tire in the world, if that weight difference doesn't make up for it. I mean it gets pretty good reviews and it looks great. BTW this comparison was all done for 33x12.5/15. My concern with upsizing was rotational mass, fuel economy and loss of power. With a "light(er)" tire, that should help counter that problem, no?! So how important is weight in comparison to all the other factors? Especially where none of those tires are bad!

Thanks man, yeah go to NicoClub, the LED conversion is a sticky. It has direct links to the right sizes in the guide as well as a DIY. However it is super easy to swap the lights out on the speedo/tachometer. The HVAC and transmission require a bit more cursing.<br /> <br /> Also, I posted the pic of the bags with the stickers on for reference as well. Keep in mind I forgot the 2 HVAC bulbs.

I'll be sticking with the Duratracs for the foreseeable future. I finally got around to swapping out my dashboard lights. I went with blue and some red to keep the theme of the red dials throughout. So I opted for a red ashtray light, as I already have a red LED on my roof rack light switch. The only thing is, I used the NicoClub write up for this and ordered the bulbs via the built in links. Worked like a charm....except I must have missed the 2 HVAC bulbs. They are still original colour. I'll replace those too though. And I'll replacing the head unit with an aftermarket to be able to use my phone to play music. I'll ether pick one with customizable backlit colours or one that is blue. I think that will tie it all together nicely and give it a nice updated look. This is actually a real easy DIY and if I get tired I'll get different colours. All in all cost me $40 CAD shipped from super bright LEDs in the states, plus shipping and taxes and our crappy Loonie. Before: After: Shifter and ashtray Overall

Smittybilt lol

Unlikely. 4wheel parts sells this. @&#33;*%tybilt makes them.