deerhurst

I think it will. The ECu in these older rigs only care about transmission type and motor. As long as it is VG30i with the same tranny type in each I see no problem.

I have 235/75/15s with steelies on my 86.5 V6 hardbody. Been seeing around 23MPG lately. Did manage 25MPG on an all highway run. The headers have done well.

Have you read the zombie survival guide? I keep a copy on my phone because I am that nerdy.

I hope they drop ago like in call of duty. That would be handy. My house would be fine, love in the lisle of a clearing on the edge of a meadow. Ask I would need is a crows nest on the barn.

That thing is sweet! Have any build pics or such?

Awesome! That is an amazing area!

Usually run Castrol Edge. Running a Mobile1 full synthetic right now. I try to run only Napa Gold filters. Last time I ran a Fram it was the biggest pile of junk to be within 10 feet of my truck.

VG30i is a bulletproof little motor if you make sure to do at least regular maintenance on it. It does not make much power in stock, N/A form. 2 biggest problems 1) It is an interference engine so change that timing belt regularly and early. If it breaks you are in for a major headache 2) Exhaust studs. They are small (M8x1.25) and prone to breaking. Usually the rear ones will break first then the front and then the rest. The top end is aluminum. Broken studs can be a PITA. Been there before. Upgrades? First give it a good tune up. Fluids and such. If you want more, I suggest headers. I have headers by Pacesetter made for the VG30e on my VG30i. Stock exhaust and stock intake. The pacesetters are mild steel and do need some sort of coating to protect them. The black shipping paint burns off fast. The Y pipe needs to be cut and then put back together to even get it on the truck. The flange at the end of the Y pipe needs some hack saw to make it seal. Was it worth it? Yes! Better throttle response and noticeably more power. I have not put mine on a dyno but it does do the occasional unwanted wheel spin that it never used to do, even with a trailer behind it. I also have a 4.1 rear end. I have read cams are a close second best upgrade to the headers. I have no experience with them. Exhaust. It can help or just make it sound cool. I run stock so I cannot comment. JWT in california does do ECU tunes but after talking to them the $500 price tag would get me a little better throttle response and nothing else. Not worth it to me. No real options for intake unless you design your own. One of these days I will get around to making a custom intake for this engine and report on how it does. I think that covers upgrades for the engine. Not too much out there.

I have the top one semi figured out. I think it lacks the signal wire that the newer rigs have that can initiate the ECU modes.

Thanks man. I will download those and start reading them when I get off work. This is the one is my 86.5 V6 D21: I believe I have the ECU lights mapped. I would have to put an LED into it and run codes to make sure. My pinout diagram is in the shop. I also have this little guy. Not sure what it is for.

The D21s had different diagnostic plugs though the years. As far as I know the early (86 and maybe 87) have a 14 or so pin. my 86.5 has a 16 pin but I only have 11 pins used. I would have to look at my notes. The later rigs had something like a 10 or 12 pin. The wiring is different. Do you have a schematic of the older 14 pin? Ill have to ask over on IN to see if the newer pinout has been finished. I am pretty sure the older has not.

It is a 2010 A4 2.0T Quattro. It is a sedan. I dont know how to describe the paint. It looks grey most of the time but in the right light it looks green or blue. Sometimes even teal. The interior is a cream color. Light Grey trim. Light Grey dash. Leather. Some faux wood insets. Then the 6 speed. Beautiful car and great to drive!

I am in Oregon. I can literally go across the road and wheel but all it really is is trees and sand. There are OHV parks around here. Most near me seem to be free but small and boring. I know of a dirt road or series of dirt roads that I have done around here that is at least 100 miles or more.

The running codes is not much of an issue depending on the year. Over in IN another guy and I were working on the consult port pinout. I think he figured out the early 90s rigs. You can run LEDs and a button off the consult port and locate it remotely.

Sweet! My dad and I flew to denver and drove about 22 hours back to grab an audi with a manual and a light colored interior. That was the closest one with a manual and light interior for sale period.

Any audi avant is uncommon. The ones with an manual tranny are rare.

I agree, it is a fridge on its side on a wheelie cart but I would easily daily a Flex and still feel good about myself over driving a Junk even once.....unless it was a Juke R. Im not a fan of the new minis. They are just not Mini Cooper enough to be a Mini Cooper.

I think some of the Audis will become classics. They are beautiful and excellantly engineered machines. Guess that means my family is keeping our 2010 A6 with a 6 speed manual. 5% of Audis inported to the US are a mnaual. Ours is a mnaual with light colored interior. As for others. I think the 1999-2003 Ford Superduty will be a classic. I know its not post 2010 but these trucks still bring a premium, especially with a diesel and a manual tranny. They will last 25 years too. Another will be the GTR of course. It has always been a classic and the R35 will be no different. I think the modern muscle cars will be passed up. Their prime time was long ago. I hope my old 86 D21 is considered a classic not only due to its age but what it is.

Not past 3k? It may be in limp mode. Check your codes.

Lots are still around. The last Nismo catalog I found, 2012, still had lots of parts for the D21 and WD21.

Some say the same thing of the ext cab HBs but I know my seat move far enough forward and my LEDs are at the front of the ECU.

A couple of us over on Infamous Nissan are working on relocating the LEDs for use for diagnostics and such. With this there will be no need to remove the passenger seat to see the LEDs blinking or with a bench seat, drive around sitting on a bucket. This is to be done using the consult port under the dash. We think we have the it sorted for at least the early 90s rigs and maybe the 88 and 89. We are still working on ones for the 86.5 rigs as the consult port seems to be different from the 88 and 89. If anyone has photos of their port and wire colors for the 86-89 that would help alot. If anyone has done this on any year, your input to what pins/wire colors to use would be invaulable. A link to our thread over on IN. The first few pages is just everything from everywhere on the forum put together. http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31769

My 86.5 Hardbody has 131k miles. 4x4 SE V6 with a 5 speed manual on 235/75/15 tires and steel wheels. I have been getting around 23-24.5 Mpg.

His words: "I made a few sets of headers that would fit your truck but it is so difficult to get 2-1/2" downpipes past the torsion bars that I stopped producing them. " He then proceeded to state that the thorleys are the only ones worth using. He also said the website is being worked on. For now I think I am looking at figuring out a set of VG30e headers and killing off the EGR. Still no word from anyone about the AIV and if I will have to kill that off. I have heard very mixed reviews about the OBX but nothing about how they fit on a VG30 in a truck/pathy. People say that lately the welds are very nice and quality has gone up. Some people swear by them and other, naturally, hate everything about them. They are supposedly pacesetter copies. I do like the thorley but they are $$. The "e" are half the price of the "i" compatible ones on 4x4parts but the OBX are little bit more to what I want to afford.

Contacted Experimental yeterday via Facebook as his website is down for maintainance. He no longer makes anything that will work.