deerhurst

Where I was in Oregon we had no smog regulations. Just had to have federal emissions when purchased new. Most people ran no emissions controls or CAT. On the I5 corridore you will have smog testing. I have to change my location, Im in Mississippi now.

Nope. Killed mine off when I put headers in. I plugged the pipe from the CAT in the engine bay. I did gain a little MPGs, maybe 0.5 to 1MPG HWY with the headers and no AIV or EGR. The biggest thing was a smoother idle. You might bet better responsivemess too. I cannot confirm as mine was pulled when headers went it which resulted in much more power, better MPG and much better responsiveness.

From the JY all Ive gotten was a switch that I modded to use for my 6 incher lights and a couple jumpers since I broke the clip on the one in the truck. As for craigslight, got a dealer option grill guard with headlight wings for $80 and a set of Hella 500 lights from a buddy for free.

New battery yesterday, tank of non ethanol today and the bastard decided not to start. Starter decided it didn't like me for about and hour then it worked and fired right up! Trying to figure out why it is happening.

Just with headers and the factory cat back I accidentally churp tires on occasion with 237/75/15s on steelies. Ive churped them in 3rd before and I have a 4.11 rear end. Id love to do some torque cams and see where that goes. I dont care about HP, I like torque. Love the sound of a supercharger so thats the main reason why I want one. Would probably be easier to do a VG30e supercharged than the i unless its a cintrifugal supercharger and only due to space constraints. The throttle body is kinda high and the pully might hit the hood.

Over the last week I moved to Mississippi with my truck, the rain put surface rust on my painted headers which pisses me off and put a new battery in today.

If you drive like a hooligan the TBI V6, I am assuming you have the V6, will suck the fuel down. If its an auto tranny thats not helping any. Like said before, I would check for leaks first. Maybe check codes while you are at it.

Tires and driving technique really make a difference in the winter. My Les Shwab special ATs suck in every condition other than dry road or tarmac in the rain. My BF AT KOs dont do the best in the rain on tarmac but are pretty well amazing in most other things Ive tried. They are great in the snow because they like to dig. I rarely run in 4wd unless its just too slick to stand on the road, deep snow or I need to slow down faster using the motor. When it swings out the rear it goes really fast because the rig is so short.

Few days ago I woke up to a couple days of -10F which is warm for winter here. Today I was in a t-shirt and it was at least 60F.

Boost, headers and cams. I have VG30e headers on my VG30i. The fit perfect but the emissions bungs are in the wrong spot. I also did an emissions delete while I was at it.

A centrifugal supercharger is basically a belt driven turbo. Basically a belt driven compressor. I've got this strange desire to bolt one where the AC would go.

It was an Eaton m90. I only know of one guy running one on a pathy and it is unique. He was at one point going to sell kits for it. Easiest these days would probably be a centrifugal setup and custom intake.

Replaced the tension/compression rod bushings. One of them was pretty FURARed. The metal tube the rod sits in was almost cut through.

Haha! Sometimes they do strange things. I did some heavy throttle for a couple days, 4k shifts and what not. 19MPG out of a little VG30i with headers! Also accidentally spun the tires a couple times. Started making the enclosure my arduino project will sit in. Eventually of like to get a touch screen for it.

V6 runs the R200 so you should have the R180 unless it is different over seas. Front diff is under the engine and will have a small skid plate protecting it. Not sure, never done my T-case oil. I just used a 1/4 ratchet tool with nothing on the end on my transmission if I remember right. Should be the same on the diffs and t-case.

It's probably far easier than you think. See if your clutch switch is normally open or normally closed. If I remember right the switch is activated when the clutch is out, no pressure on the pedal. If it is normally closed you just have to wire a switch to connect the 2 wires just like it would be with no pressure on the switch. If normally open, just place the switch in-line with a wire that breaks or completes the connection. Basically, you just have to mimic what the switch does when the clutch is depressed.

Completely removed the vacuum stuff to fully disable the warm air flapper. I have headers so it is kinda useless to me and no more warming up the truck with it trying the breath through a 1" hole.

My sister had a Kia SUV thing. She said it was completely gutless. 45MPH up the hill out of town with the throttle to the floor. Hers ended up with a mystery disease. It would fire up, run for a few second then die. New ECU, new wiring harness and about 2 months of diagnostics it was scrapped. Hers had a wiring harness recall but it had been previously done. She now drives a Subaru. Far better in the winter, hasnt died randomly and can go up the hill without being floored at over 45mph while doing 30+MPG. Hardbody on the other hand....I had an oil pressure sender die.

The 4.1 is pretty rare in the Hardbody. Hard to find any info on it. I assume its a 4.1 as its a HG41 but cannot find any info on it.

I use Black Chrome. Its a wax for black stuff. Lasts my flares until they get covered with crap then fash and good to go.

Precise, that list doesnt show the 4.1. Nor does anything else on the internet. My 86.5 V6 HB has a HG41. I would have to find an old pathy brochure to see if it listed for the pathy too. It is in small print at the bottom of one of the pages in the hardbody brochure for 86.5. Ill look an see if NICO has the pathy brochure. Edit: Only the 4.3 and 4.6 shown in the 88 brochure. Guess the ratios didnt cross over to the HB.

Yes but dont forget about the mass of the tire. A larger tire may be heavier therefore take more power to spin and keep it spinning and in turn use more fuel at a lower RPM. I run 235/75/15 BFG AllTerrains. They are roughtly 30" tall. To me, they look too small. Planning to see what 31s look like under it for the next set. I dont have too much knowledge on the R50 other than my aunt runs the exact same 235/75/15s on hers as I do on my HB.

Mine were like that for my hardbody. Old, faded in places and scratched from storage. I went ahead an plastidipped them black. Turned out really well on a red/silver rig. 5-10 layers on each and they hold up well. One even decided to bail on the highway. Only skuffed the plastidip.

Maybe speedo gear. Mine is off by roughly 5% on my hardbody. It is not uncommon to speedos to be a little off (that sounds pretty odd) but I am not sure if 10% is in the acceptable range.

If you want to tow the most you can do a 5 manual swap to the FS5R30a. It is quite a burley tranny. Used in the z31, I think the z32, hardbody, pathy and I was recently informed by a foreign guy that his skyline (R32 I think) uses one. Then headers and cams. Or you could just leave the 3 speed in there. It will be more adept to towing as it has no OD over the 4 speed auto.