deerhurst

Nope. I got that. Only places I go without that is school and federal buildings. Or places that have posed asking no firearms. Other things I always have in my rig: Glock Model 81 knife Spare blinker bulb Tire pressure gauge Mini compressor Angle grinder Couple pens Couple note pads Spare for all belts but T-Belt Emergency blanket for the winter Flares Usually my bicycle helmet and gloves iPod shuffle Microsoft Zune HD AUX cable Manual for the rig and all accessories such as the radio. I think thats it. All stuffed in a single cab D21! With me: CRKT Wasp knife G26 Wallet (of course) truck, tractor, house, barn and gate keys Xperia Z phone.

With a body lift you will need to extend or modify at least the following: Shifter(s) Steering Possibly wires Throttle cable Clutch/Brake lines Probably more. I do not like BLs and have not looked into them much.

Did more research. Nothing is mentioned about the secondary air port coming from the AIV assembly. Are these in the same location or gone altogether? I have not found anyone that will tell me if there is difference in how the headers are tuned. I have a couple more questions. My area does not do smog tests at all and my truck is too old for most of the state to smog. So, that leads me to this. How hard is to remove the EGR and will I see any differences? How bad is it to remove the AIV? I can only see the CAT, secondary air to the manifold and the AB valve being part of that. If I remove all of that, what differences should I see? Will the ECU still be happy? If that is the case and the "new" style headers will fit and have good low end torque characteristics I will look at those and kill the emissions.

Even on a 4x4? I do not want to do a body lift.

How did you manage that?!?! I love my MM hubs. Never had an issue though I dont go and try to put it in a bind at full throttle. Have had issues with every WARN product Ive been around, especially Ford hubs.

Im looking for some headers though not for a pathy but for a 86.5 hardbody with the VG30i. I have an exhaust leak and I figured this was a good excuse to get more performance and fix a problem. From the reasearch I have done I have gotten 3 different reasons why the "e" (90-95) and "i" (86.5-89) headers are different. From seraching here it is just the emissions/EGR port location. Pacesetter says it a chassis diference and Thorley told me it was bolt pattern. Which is it? The "e" headers are half the price of "i" headers depending on where I look. From 4x4parts the Thorleys for the "i" are ~$500. At Summit the "e" are around ~$250-300. Ruggedrocks website hates me and refuses to load. If I decide to grab one or the other varient and decided not to do the EGR piping, can I just cap it and un plug the EGR? Any other piping that runs from them to anywhere else? (Federal Emissions) I have also read that the "i" headers are long tube while the "e" headers are shortys. Is this true? What sort of gain over stock should I see? Torque? I will also have a custom intake so no need to worry about the round swirling air, square piping and the corrugated piping creating restrictions.Any noticable difference between long and short tube? Lastly, other than Pacesetter and Thorley, are there any other options to consider?