hawairish

As for your maintenance items, I think you'll get a lot of answers, but really the best list you can get is probably from the Maintenance section in the FSM. This has all the general items to check. The Owners Manual has a similar section, "Maintenance and do-it-yourself". Both resources can be found online here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/pathfinder-qx4-general-information-and-q-a-t549378.html Those other items seem trivial to me: Window switch may be bad, have a bad ground, or the switch may just need some cleaning. Although the driver's switch works, the module may also be the culprit as the other switches are tied to it (because of the window lock-out switch). The FSM explains the circuits clearly, and provides troubleshooting steps. The rear hatch won't pop if the rear wiper is in use...or if the hatch thinks it's in use. Inside the wiper motor is a switch that is engaged when the wiper arm is resting on a black plastic piece below the window. Sometimes, the arm doesn't come to rest properly on it. Retry with the wiper arm in a better position (for testing, you can probably just let it rest below/off the resting piece). My truck had this problem; not only was the arm not resting properly, but the plastic housing on the wiper motor was cracked and preventing the internal switch from being engaged. I tightly taped it up (it wasn't very repairable by other means) and adjusted the arm position. No problems since. There are some additional maintenance items on the "all-mode" 4wd system. When functioning properly, it should be no different than the part-time system. However, there are more switches and sensors on the system, so the system itself is prone to more failures. Be sure to test it. Find a dirt/grass lot and give it a go.

Hahaha, no sweat! I had a similar moment replying to a thread the other day, right after I posted some anecdotal story, someone basically said, "Hey, just buy part this instead: link". Exactly what I meant to say, just needed (a lot) more words. So if I have time this weekend, I'll also pull the carriers and get some measurements.

Yes, they seem pretty similar, almost identical except for the carrier. Though, I usually proceed cautiously with some diagrams. I noticed that parts diagrams for the X diffs (not the FSM explosions you posted) have an inset picture showing the R50 diff, but with the correct explosions. Anxious to see the real comparisons. Keep us posted.

Good deal. As long as you're giving it some thought. Can't attest to the overheating. It's 100°F-120°F (38°-49°C) at least half of the year here in AZ, and I haven't experienced any problems on my 04 with 169K. It's all about maintenance.

I had the same problem with my switch. Had to press hard or repeatedly. Took it apart, cleaned contacts, checked continuity, switch appeared fine. Moot now because I changed radios and did not retain switch function. Oh, and if you go the same route and decide to delete the switch, there's a panel cover Nissan sells. Don't buy it. It doesn't fit without removing a bracket...or without removing the steering wheel as best as I can tell.

I'm with the other guys...that seems like a good deal, even if it does need some work. Of course, do your due diligence on other factors before purchase. "If it seems too good to be true, it probably is." Get a CARFAX Visually inspect VIN number plates for tampering or replacement. The General Information chapter of the FSM shows where all tags are located in the "Identification Information" section. Ask your insurance agent to run a VIN check for thefts, claims, salvage titles, etc. Come registration time, any unknowns may cost you big time (including confiscation of the vehicle if reported stolen!). If some guy was trying to sell me a truck for $1K, and was willing to drop 40% just to get a parking space...that's a red flag to me. (Of course, when living in Chicago, I saw parking spaces for condos going for $30K alone...no joke.) Selling it for that low is already questionable. KBB says a 161K mile 2001 LE is worth $3K US by private sale in fair condition in NE Montana. That's about $4K CAN in Saskatchewan where it appears tagged. Doesn't it seem suspicious that he's willing to sell it for just over 1/8th its supposed value, (assuming we're talking CAN$)?

You told your wife she's no Prom Queen!? I know what else will be rusting outside tonight! (Haha, I get what you meant! )

Haha, so you're collecting disc brakes, while I'm collecting differentials! Nothing wrong with having some back-ups. Yeah, I hate to be the bad guy on the responses, but when I read that much BS about brakes in general, I can't help it. That's what I hate about the NICO forum the most...so much bad information. Meanwhile, NPORA is pure gold! But anyway... So actually, my project—and really the basis for starting this topic—is to make a bolt-on solution for replacing the R50 diff with a WD22/D22U diff. I've been hinting about it on some threads, but I'm pretty serious about it now. It will either re-use R50 CVs, or allows for X/Fr CVs, which means lower operating angles for the CVs. It will also open the doors to all the gear options that we don't have. That's what I'm really after.

Like a bad haircut the day before Prom... Just kidding. Doesn't look terrible, but maybe it is time to re-think the fenders. I actually like those lines in general..similar to the new Tacomas. Which gets me thinking that maybe with some patience and a sharp blade, you can make OE or aftermarket flares from something else fit. Perhaps a 4Runner would be a better starting point because of the rear doors, but something without a cutout for the gas door. Just an idea. What you really need is a hand riveter, a pile of rivets, tin snips, some thin steel sheets, and some sealant. Patch those holes, then lather in POR-15. Ain't gotta be pretty. Otherwise, I'll start a poll thread about what rust-related nicknames we can come up for your truck.

That makes sense! You saw Fleurys' latest control arms, right? I like that setup a lot. Simple, effective. I saw his old aluminum ones for the first time just the other day...nice, but too nice?

Wow, you've got some neat pieces there. If you're interested in selling those disc-brake parts, or can provide more info about them, I think I may have 1 or 2 buyers (one of which I surely pissed off over at the NICO forums...http://forums.nicoclub.com/97-pathfinder-rear-rotor-kits-t602609.html. I'm all for a disc-brake swap, but one guy's "safety" concerns over drum brakes just blew my mind.) Anyway...back to topic. If the shafts interchange, and I expect they would, that's a good sign. A better sign if it has the 2-pinion 1-piece open carrier that should found in R50s. Basically, even though I know the WD21/2 diff is shorter than the R50, it helps to know if either the CV flange is the same, or even similar to the R50. For my project, I know I will need some sort of spacer/adapter on one or both ends of the diff. I'm planning to either re-use my CVs, or offset the diff a little more and use X/Fr CVs, which are a little longer and should fit the R50 wheel hub, considering the same manual hubs fit those models.

Never know until you try!

Hahaha you got a little parts graveyard there, eh? Dare I ask how that project went...or is going?? Maybe someone will give you a few bucks for the transfer case skid plate by the stump. But yeah, they look identical, with some very subtle differences (the cast near the pinion seal, for example). I suspect the CV flange on the X diff is the same as the R50s...would be great if it is.

Hahaha, yep, never seen that! I found the p/n for it (55490-4W020). It was only installed on R50s made between 01/00 and 09/00 apparently...a 9-month window for an entire generation of R50s! As for what it is...it is just another damper...that MSRPs at $110 each!!! Courtesy Parts wants $83 for it. You could eBay it and profit...if it weren't for the fact it is a useless part (clearly because no other R50 has needed it). Chop it off, and never look back.

Boom

If you remove it, yes. A few options, actually: Snorkel CAI Tacoma airbox mod (google it) For the latter two, you'll want to cover the opening where the duct and airbox pass through. Also, if you're looking for advice on what not to do in terms of bumper mounting, see my post here. I've got some pics of other aftermarket R50 mounts if you're interested.

The measurements for the area where the CV mounts to the flange would be great, namely: 1. Diameter and depth of the inner recess on the flange 2. The overall diameter of the flange 3. Bolt pattern of the flange...though despite being an odd shape, the short and long distances between any 3 adjacent holes ought to suffice?

Awesome, both of those response. Yep, never claimed to know my Z cars. So that's actually pretty good news...another possible LSD option, and likely more readily-ish available. I hadn't seen many clutch-type LSDs for R200's in general when I was doing some cursory searches.

Ballistic device...hahaha! Wrong! It's a plastic half-octopus! Actually, it's an air duct (seriously). At the top of it is an opening, and that opening feeds directly into your airbox, before the filter of course. Any heavier-than-air items, such as water and rocks, should drop into those "fingers". There are smaller holes in each that allow for water drainage. If you remove your airbox, you'll see what I mean. If you pull the wheel well liner, you'll see that it actually extends into that area to draw (stale) air. Couldn't tell you why it's all wonky-shaped. The sensor on it is an ambient air temp sensor. You shouldn't remove the duct unless you replace it with a snorkel. It's prone to cracking and fatigue like any other plastic, and I think Lurch (a member here) at one point hydrolocked his engine because this part failed and drew in water. Obviously, a decent amount of water in it won't drain, and will hydrolock. It's part 16577 on the diagram:

Is this it?

Sounds you've got the Mad Max Edition trailing arms.

Yes, sorry to hear about the passing. Taking a stab at the P1110 code... From what I understand from the EC section of the FSM, the VTC system consists of a position sensor and a solenoid. P1110 reads as a failure for the system (well, the passenger side of the system, in conjunction with P1135), and not any one part, because it describes the functions of the solenoids and sensors on both the passenger and driver sides. It also reads like it's RPM- and load-dependent and not so much speed dependent. It seems like the code should be accompanied by some additional codes according to the Malfunction A and B description; expected codes might be P1111 or P1140, specifically for the passenger side (also referenced as B1). On EC-449, those are the expected voltages on the solenoid and position sensors...of course, those are some pretty quick pulses to measure for, but you should be able to confirm the nominal voltages. But, it might be easier to test the solenoid or position sensor first, instead. According to P1111, testing the solenoid should be very easy; it should click when 12V is applied (see EC-457). P1140 is for the sensor and troubleshooting looks to be pretty straight-forward (description starts on EC-484, but see EC-489 for the diagnostic procedure). Just need a multimeter. Hope that info helps!

Maybe it's a...nail welded to a rubber block?? Just checked mine and I don't have anything matching that description. Even checked out the pics on a few RockAuto options, I don't see anything resembling that either, except fin-like brace that would (hardly) protect the axle. Got a pic?

Excellent. I did something like that for my iPhone using a belt holster an old bracket from my Jeep; same spot. I need to start thinking about a CB install at some point. Gearing for GONE...CB required. Been reading up on it here and there, just need to find a really compact unit that meets my install requirements. Been eye-balling the Cobra 75 WX ST, but all the compact ones I really like are from AUS websites.

Good question. Supposing for a moment it does fit, it probably wouldn't be a good choice. Z- and SX-based LSDs are usually "viscous" LSDs, or VLSDs, which are speed-sensitive and fluid-driven. There are better ways to explain it, but the rotation of the carrier creates a fluid pressure that enables the LSD. At low speeds, its benefits are low/negligible/none. It would only be beneficial at moderate/high speeds while in 4wd and driveline torque applied. Not really a good scenario for us, but possible (maniacs!). There are also aftermarket Torsen/Helical LSDs for various R200s. These are gear, rather than fluid or clutch, driven. These would have some benefit to us at any speed, but only when the tires are on the ground. Here's an excellent primer on the differences, btw: http://www.trak-life.com/basic-introduction-helical-torsen-viscous-mechanical-limited-slip-differentials-lsd/ But, assuming it was of some benefit, the carrier and side shafts make it tricky. Part of the problem is matching the spline counts/sizes. Across all truck-based R200, we have maybe 3-4 passenger-side shafts. Across all car-based models, the output shafts are the same per vehicle, and they are all short, and there are probably dozens of them. But even within our limited selection, even 3mm can be the difference-maker: If I put the R50 shaft into the WD21 housing, there'd be a gap between the spline nut on the side gear and the tip of the output shaft. Upon tightening the bolt to hold to the shaft in place, it would draw against the oil seal and damage it. You could put a spacer between in the gap. If I put the WD21 shaft into the R50 housing, the shaft would be up against the splined nut, but I would have a gap at the oil seal. If either fit, at least in the case of R50 vs WD21, you'd have mismatched output shafts (not a terrible problem, just need an adapter of sorts). The scenario above isn't necessarily a good one because it's apples-to-oranges, believe it or not. It doesn't take into account gear thicknesses and any differences in the shims used. That is, gears will change thickness (er, height for rings, and diameter for pinions) depending on the tooth counts for each, and require completely different amounts of shimming to set lash. We might get lucky on swapping carriers in general, and they should be the same or very similar. Perhaps I will try swapping them anyway. It does seems possible that they should interchange. I'm not tooled to pull/install pinions, but I can at least swap rings and carriers to see if it's possible, and take measurements. Curiosity piqued. Parting thought: Hardbodies and Frontiers with C200 axles had clutch-type LSDs available. Those should fit, and would be a good improvement (and are also subject to LSD re-packs!) because they are speed independent (though increased input torque does improve the breakaway). The splines must fit because the ARB locker is for both R200 and C200 models. Hahaha, you and your machinist humor...good stuff! Yes, any info about any truck-based R200A is appreciated!