hawairish

Did you install something like the Scosche OEA-4? It's intended to interface aftermarket radios to the factory amp to avoid your volume issue. That's what I use with the Bose system and I don't have any problems. And I agree with Kingman...keep the posts together please.

Yep, no need to remove them, just rest them on the LCAs and they'll be out of the way enough. Unbolt them from the brackets, and you can lower it down. There's also a breather tube attached up top to disconnect, and that's about it.

Cool. Are the upper sleeves wide enough for the mount, or did you need some washers/spacers?

Leave them in. You won't be able to remove the diff with the brackets attached...they won't clear the LCAs.

10-4. Also, can you edit my previous thread to change Steve's website link to "4x4design.com" (design, singular)?

B: Since my comment after the picture adds nothing to this thread, please feel free to edit it out. Perhaps we should strip/lock down this thread and focus on the answers that best address the OP's question: The four sources for strut spacers that I'm aware of, and the material they use, are (in no particular order): NX4 Industries (nx4industries.com), ONT(?), CAN: billet aluminum Steve (4x4design.com, "Fleurys" on NPORA, "fleurys2" on eBay), QC, CAN: high-density polyethylene (HDPE) Automotive Customizers (4x4parts.com), FL, US: billet aluminum (these appear to be the NX4 spacers) Jeff ("Liftmaker" on NPORA, "hoepkers" on eBay), IL, US: cast urethane (PM him for different sizes/prices) There's also a used 1" aluminum set on eBay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131609827276

I've hinted at it before, but it's clear now: you don't know what you're doing.

Haha, if I had that option, I'd mount it a little higher for the tailgaters to see.

Haha, well...I guess that's the best part: I'm not. I came across the Midland 75-822 earlier today. Handheld and mobile CB in one unit. You just swap the battery pack with an included DC adapter that breaks out into a 12V socket and antenna socket. I just need to run the antenna cable to the center console and boom: installed. Though, I suppose I need to figure out where to hang it. The unit really seems like the best of all worlds for my needs, and comes with plenty of accessories for the buck. I may even pick up an extra magnetic antenna for putting on the other vehicle for some upcoming road trips.

Hahaha...no comment! Actually, that seems to be a good way to use the space. I've seen similar setups, and after staring at my interior for seeming 30 mins today trying to figure out where to mount a CB, I pictured it with some holes.

Yep, looks like it's still going.

Uhhh...no panhard bar? A little extra sway on the drive? Did it rust off or something? Seems worth a shot since you have the driveshafts laying around. Planning to flip this vehicle or something?

One idea I've been tossing around for a buddy's setup is to drop in a fuel cell into that area as an extended range tank. Making it more trunk-like would be great, though.

No sweat! But wait, there's more... I just remembered this post from Fleurys. Before disassembling things, take a look at the snap rings. He notes inner vs. outer rings for automatic vs manual (respectively). Plus, he provides the part numbers for aftermarket u-joints. ...and despite Courtesy selling 37126-VB925 for $66/ea (wtf?!), the NEAPCO units Fleurys went with are going for $3/each(!!) on RockAuto.com, fronts and rears! Plus some other cheap options...I'd say if you're going to remove that yoke, may as well replace the u-joints.

joluma09, for $400 (or less with some bargaining?), it'd might be worth it to find out. Sounds like it needs some custom work for the transmission crossmember, but not an extensive amount of custom work. Here's an old old post from a guy who did it once. It's kind of funny reading it now considering the guy asking "What's SAS?" and "What's IFS?" a decade ago is the guy who's running his own company that sells Nissan parts, including a SAS kit.

Judging by the parts options listed at CourtesyParts.com for the R50, there is a different driveshaft for the all-mode t-cases versions than the part-time t-cases. Since all the QX4s had all-mode (right?), I presume it used the same all-mode driveshaft. However, if the difference is just the yoke, it wouldn't surprise me if you could just swap that to the D21 driveshaft. The p/n for the u-joint is 37126-VB925 (old p/n is 37126-C9425), and that appears to be used on just about every Nissan truck/SUV driveshaft pre-2004 (per NissanParts.cc results). Of course, if the u-joint is the problem...well, there's your p/n.

You can just buy the speaker wire adapters on eBay. Few bucks per pair.

Yep, that's them...the Reflex line. However, I don't really recommend them...they do ride a little rough unloaded (though...loaded up, they seem to do well). Quality seems questionable, though. I had to replace one under warranty before I ever installed it...when trying to press one of the bushings out, it hit against my workbench and something inside started rattling. I compared the compression and rebound to the other shock, and it was noticeably easier to compress and slower to rebound. If that's what it took to dislodge something, not sure how trail-worthy they really are. I only bought them for as cheap option, since I was still exploring some other rear suspension options at the time. I paid about $30/ea from Rock Auto...they're still that amount, but with CAN shipping, not sure. Also, the 33-185569 Bilstein above has extended length of 29.7", not 29"...typo on my part. This is probably what I'll go with eventually.

Well, I won't revive my opinion on that topic, but they are owned by the same company.

And just to note...those part numbers are more for answering CDN_S4's question about having that much rear lift. And about the bushings...I'm not exactly sure what pieces come with the Bilstein shocks. From their description, both eyelets are 5/8", which is a good 16mm equivalent for the lower mount. The upper mount is 12mm, so a suitable sleeve would need to be used (or upgrade to a 16mm bolt)...not sure if the the sleeve is included, but I see some sleeves in the pic at their website. I also wouldn't be surprised if you need to use some thick washers to fill gaps on the sides of the bushings if they're too narrow. I'm using some extra thick washers on my setup, top and bottom.

Hahaha, you guys know me too well. The shocks I run are for a 99-04 F250/F350 2WD (Monroe Reflex 911194). The only catch about them is that the bushings needed to be flipped...right sizes, wrong ends. I ended up using some poly bushings instead on one end (Energy Suspension 9-8107G). Here are the stats from Monroe (compressed/extended/travel): F250: 16.625"/28.25"/11.5" R50: 15.125"/24.25"/9.125" If you're looking for a suitable Bilstein replacement, these are the 5125 Series options with the 255/70 valving that XPLORx4 has recommended in the past: 33-104652: 17"/28"/11") 33-185569: 17.9"/29"/11.1") There are some other sizes in the series with different compression/rebound numbers: 5125 Series

I just can't get over the fact that someone sells a car for $75. That's awesome. Unless it's haunted. Then yes, $75 for a haunted car is fair, and still pretty awesome. Time to hit the junk yards!

LOL So, some quick numbers: last tank got 250 miles on 14.85 gallons, so about 16.8 mpg. About 75% of those miles were freeway, cruising around 65 mph @ 2500rpm.

Milling the spacers wouldn't be a problem, but at 3" of lift, you'll be pushing the limits on the CVs. The thing about having that much lift is not necessarily putting the CVs at angles they can't operate at (after all, the relationship between the CV and LCA is unchanged), but instead having the CV work a lot harder while at a weaker angle. It's working harder because it has to oscillate more to do its main function: keep constant velocity. You can also imagine a CV like a ratchet with some swivel joints and extenders...what's going to best deliver torque: everything being straight, or everything having angles on it? Your better bet would be to just use the springs, keep the spacers, and save up for an SFD. I may be able to help you with the latter part soon.

Giggity giggity....those are gonna look nice!