Mr. Pickles

That's sounding like with beer, lots of coffee, a welder, some buddies....

The nice part is, there is no Nissan-specific part involved. The stock lights just use regular H3 bulbs, so you don't even need to beef up the wiring or anything. These specific lights only required a little tweak to the bracket to fit. Its just about as "plug and play" as it gets. And yes, they're dramatically better than the stock ones I used to have.

Yup, the very beast. You should make the drive.

Somebody give this man a cheeseburger STAT!

Very nice. That road is kinda tucked away by my place. Come down the hill, then turn right on Central. Take another right at 259th, then follow it as it turns into Green River Rd. There's some cool parks in there, fishing spots, and a golf course down the road a ways. It goes all the way into Auburn and meets up with 8th St NE/Lea Hill Rd by Green River CC.

Wow, we're neighbors! I'm about 5 min too. I live on the Green River just off Central Ave.

Yup, I live in Kent, about 20 miles south of Seattle. Gotta love GI Joes, the definitive guy's store. Whoever decided to put an auto parts and sporting goods store together should get a medal or a cookie or something.

I also bought a the driver's side headlight from that same company on ebay about a year ago. They're the cheapest I could find around.

The stock fog lights use regular old H3 bulbs, no fancy wiring required. The challenge is finding a set that fit in the stock location in the bumper (if that's where you want them). I found those Pilots at a local store (GI Joes) retailing for $24.99. The part # is above in my previous post. Can't beat that. I just had to slightly bend the brackets (you'll see, no big deal AT ALL, hand bent) and drill 2 small holes in the bracket behind the bumper. Simple as can be, CHEAP, and very satisfying.

Sorry about the pics, as you can see, things were giving me trouble big time. I had resized them, and then they wouldn't link for some reason. Tried 4 or 5 times, and it wouldn't go. I was finally just tired and frustrated, and just put them up as they are. I got the bulbs at a local "ricer" shop for about $30. You can find them cheaper on Ebay, etc. but I didn't feel like waiting around. The combination is REALLY bright, I like it. The driving lights are about as bright at the headlights.

And this is the 2nd half of the text I lost the first time. Bedtime!... I tossed the cheapy driving lights I'd been using for... more cheapies! These are FAR better, however. Pilot brand PL-1055C, $24.99 at the local GI Joes. They're actually quite bright, and fit right in the stock location in the bumper. The bracket just needs a gentle bend to tweak it, and 2 small holes drilled. They're really plain white out of the box. The bulbs are the same wattage as stock (I swapped in 55 watt Nokya Arctic Blue H3's) so no wiring required, I just hooked it right back in with the stock set-up. Here's what they look like.

All

Ok, having issues here.

By themselves

And this.

Ok, Houston, we have a problem.

My stock driving lights were long ago cracked and trashed by rocks. I went with some P.O.S. cheap ones for the last year. Then I was finally fed up with this. The stock lights required the headlights to be on in order to work. I like them on by themselves (with parking/"running" lights) in the morning, dusk, etc. So, here we go... I popped off the switch in the console and determined that the purple + wire was the switched power source from the headlights, running through the switch and then out the yellow wire to the relay under the hood. I simply swapped power from the headlights by tapping into that of the parking lights and running it to the switch. That was quick, and simple as can be to allow me to run the driving lights with just the parking lights, but eliminate the annoyance of a separate aftermarket switch and the fun of forgetting to turn it off, stranding me with a dead battery.

Just throwing my had in, but could it just be the engine bogging down at such low RPM's while trying to accelerate? Its not like our Pathy's exactly have a ton of torque and power. I generally don't even bother with mine under 2K RPM's cause it just throws a fit.

BTW, that's in zip 98030.

For a 95 XE w/ 122000 mi. KBB is calling for private party value of $4390 & $6640 retail, assuming stock and "good" condition (not excellent). Funny, my 94 SE as loaded w/ 135K mi. books for $5025 private & $7395 retail. There's a big difference between XE & SE, and/or the "book" is just plain weird.

:furious: It was Les Schwab, who knows. That was the trip where I drove up the road afterward and the bolt they stripped while putting shims in my control arm popped out, and front of the Pathy fell nearly onto the street.

I replaced my Tbars with ones from AC (they ended up being made by Swayaway). Got them dialed in perfectly level in maybe 10 minutes. I've been happy with them, they flex when needed but are stiffer in general around town. They eliminated a lot of dive under hard braking too.

I asked about the rear end too when I was told the shop would be doing it to all 4 wheels. Did they plan on bending my rear axle?

I've seen wedge used on lots of brands to describe that style. But then it could be like those ebay ads: SUPERWHITE PLASMA HID FOG LIGHTS not PIAA!!!

Hey 88, where would one track down chunks of rubber that thick? Sounds pretty routine, but I've looked around (obviously in the wrong places!) and haven't seen anything suitable. I'd like to try making spacers, among other things.