Mr. Pickles

I've heard from a few shops comparable models of Pro Comp, Rancho, Trailmaster, etc. are essentially the same. Basically there are only a couple companies actually making shocks, then they re-brand as brand X, Y, Z, etc. Anyways, I've got Rancho 5000 and they are great, a bit stiffer than stock. My dad has Pro Comp 3000's on his Willys Jeep and they're great too. Pretty much, I'd bet any of the major aftermarket brands would be ok, and most of them are comparatively priced.

Rancho, Pro Comp, Trailmaster, etc. are all good shock brands. Most of them are basically the same. As for tires, I agree on keeping the size down unless you plan on some lifting. 31" will do fine with maybe some slight adjusting of the torsion bars and basic stuff, you'll keep decent gas mileage, and they're cheaper. I've had 31x12.5 Pro Comp Mud Terrains for over a month now, and they are great off and on road, especially for MT's. Ditto on checking the tire thread in the Product Review area.

*Parks on Slick's hood* Maybe a Jack and Coke will get me to move. Close, but my SE doesn't have rear discs either.

I'd suggest T bar crank on the low side if possible and needed, then check wheels for excess built up mud on the back side, then suspension slop (either check yourself if you know, or take to a reliable shop). After the cheap and free stuff is good, you should have a good idea of what else needs replacement and will cost $$$.

Right on. Those rear coils really are super easy and straight forward. Look for 88pathoffroad's instructions, or just follow common sense (unbolt lower shock mount and brake cable guides, etc.), watch the brake lines and e brake cable, etc. I had the springs in and mounted in maybe 45 min. taking my time. Be sure to post any pics or questions, and good luck!

Congrats (I think!). Hopefully that Ranger will take care of you. I drove about a 99 or 2000 for a bit for work, and it was a decent enough truck, especially since it was only a 4 banger. Here's to hoping that you remember: a ) screw the clothes as style, body protections is MAS IMPORTANT!!! b ) your body DOES wear out eventually (trust me on this one) c ) we'll always welcome you back. You just have to know (and expect) that the F@rd aspect will get you some mild ribbing here and there or course. I feel you, as does anybody that owns a truck, especially when they're young. I had my 720 for like 3+ years and hardly used the bed for myself, other than camping and... er, the drive in. But I moved everybody I can think of, including some people 2-3 times. Of course, as soon as I bought the Pathy, I moved and needed a truck. Regardless, good luck man, and take care of your broken body!

I say SE. I'm getting to lazy for manual stuff.

Infinity speakers rock (ditto). I've got Reference series all the way around, and they're just drop in replacements. Eazy to fit, and they sound incredible. I'd highly recommend Infinity speakers and an Eclipse deck. You might spend a bit more up front, but I'll bet you'll be happier in the long run vs. settling for an Alpine or Sony or something.

Far as I've heard, you don't have to do extensions on any of those with a 2" kit. I did 3" and only had to extend the fuel filler hose and relocate the power steering reservoir a bit, both covered in the instructions for the Performance Accessories body lift. No biggie at all. So I think you should be OK. Replacing the coils doesn't involve the lines either, other than being careful not to stretch the brake lines or E brake cable when lowering the axle. I simply removed the bolt holding the brake line guides on either side to allow some slack, then lowered the axle with no issues.

Mine have almost always clunked when engaging 4 wheel drive, both in the Pathy and my old 720 Pickup. Never been a problem. That said, I've only shifted "on the fly" a couple times back in the day, and I'd 2nd VSicks and say stop and do it. If you're driving in conditions that require 4 wheel drive, you shouldn't be going too fast anyways, so a quick stop for 10 seconds is no biggie. At least its piece of mind if anything.

Never really messed with brakes, other than pads and stuff, but at this point, the morons have screwed me more than enough times that its time to do it myself

Are you serious?! Blasphemy for any Pathy! Blasphemy I say! Ok, Ok, just dont' go for 24's. Well, as long as you have a REAL Pathy (WD21), maybe I'll let you slide...

No shipping?! D'oh! I think I'm gonna have to run up to their store in Renton and see if they have those. They'd make great back up lights or rock lights. On a side note, Pilot has been a good cheap light in my experience.

Please post if you find out. One thing I don't generally mess with is brakes, cause if I screw up on a motor, its expensive. If I screw up on brakes, somebody could die. So "leave it to the pros." I've replaced everything in the brake system except the hard lines, including 3!!! times for calipers and pads, all in the last 50K miles. First time was right after I bought the truck, say 105K miles, at Midas :oops:. New pads, calipers, rotors, hoses & fluid. 2nd time was a year and a half later at about 132K miles, the right front acted sticky a couple times then locked up on me on the freeway. I tapped the brakes, and it started to pull. Then as things dragged and heated up or something, it pulled harder and harder till I was at a quarter turn left on the wheel to keep it straight to pull off the freeway. There was a Midas right there, so I dropped it, but *WARNING TO EVERYBODY* their claims of warranty apply to their pads ONLY, and parts are only for like 1 year or less. I was 1 and a half. Well, by the time I found this out, the truck was torn apart, so I bit my rage and said do it. New calipers, hoses, and pads (free- whoopee freakin doo). Then last May, same thing on a warm 90 degree or so day. Back to Midas to raise hell over all the F'd up work, and again turned away, this time 1 year and 2 WEEKS after that the last complete re-do. I'm at their company for the 3rd repair on the same problem, and not even their regional managers and such would budge, not that I would allow them to touch my truck at this point. They must have side jobs at Les Schwab, some more thieving lying bastards. Anyways, to end this long rant, I finally took it to local ghetto Bucky's who have never done me wrong, and everything has been fine since (for now). So I say again, post up if you figure out the problem.

Dude, welcome to every F'n project I ever tackle. Its been reduced to "but hon, it will only take a couple hours..." only to be reminded "YEAH RIGHT! Oh, and don't hurt yourself, genius!" But screw it. Grab some tools, some brew, shut the phone off, and just sit for a few while meditating on the fruit of your efforts. "Its only money. Its only time. I've got a whole live to waste them both..." *insert beer*

You can often buy 100 watt bulbs for a few bucks each.

What are you trying to say, B? You got a problem with lift? You just don't want to get it up for us? (3" suspension + 3" body + meaty tires that still are only 31X12.5)

Hey Slick, finally make your move up this way, and I'll hook you up. The mounts are very simple, I just took a while as I was re-teaching myself how to weld (poorly). -alcohol- Pimp grill guard: $15 Normally $65+ shipping Pro Comp 100 watt lights: $30 Angle iron: $10 Couple cut-off wheels, couple welding rods, and some nuts and bolts: $5 Testing out my new welder and re-learning my skills after 11 years: PRICELESS

55 watt ones are usually about comparable to your lowbeam headlights, but it depends greatly on size and design. Cheaper and smaller generally does not = brighter. I'd say get the biggest you can fit for space and budget. Course you could also look for 100 watt ones which would be generally stronger than your lows and maybe even the highs too, or just swap in 100 watt bulbs to 55 watt housings, as most all driving lights use standard H3 bulbs. I just picked up 4 100 watt Pro-Comp 6" lights, just a bit bigger than you're looking for. Those are some of the brightest I've seen, much more than even the high beams by far. However you go, take care in how you aim them (lower and away from driver's eyes).

Ditto the speakers, I bet they're blown. I'm partial to Eclipse (what I have now, and had one in my 720 truck), Clarion, and am moderate on Sony (had problems with one, but have had a couple). JVC is ok too for a budget deck. I've had nothing but bad luck with 3 different Alpine decks. Oh, and your 95 should have a single DIN deck- "normal size"- if they're the same as my 94.

Go here for all your stereo needs.

I'll take the WD21, but R50's can be nice too. My future father-in-law has a nice 2003, and that thing can eat up some highway miles in total comfort. Not too sure I'd want take it where I take mine though. Oh well, probably just cause mine is old (94) so I don't really care about scratching or breaking it as much.

You don't have to slide it out much, maybe a half inch to and inch if I remember right. Its covered by 88pathoffroad and in turn in the thread I did on my body lift install. Mine was stuck in place so it was a pain to get out, but all in all it really was super easy to extend it once I followed 88's instructions. Search is your friend, try looking for my thread about 9 months-1 year ago, as there were many issues covered and links to other topics.

I think so, it had a small little OEM looking Land Rover stick on one of the mounts. I actually paid a whole $15 for it after scoffing at their $20 sticker.

Nope, not me, although I work in Kent. But I stayed at the office all day. Thanks all. I didn't just weld the thing to the truck. I made some brackets to bolt on at the tow hooks and to the factory mounts on the guard. Good times. Those lights are BRIGHT. Like, signal other planets bright. Me likey.