01Pathmaker

Hmmm, interesting. So a facelift bumper will fit the early r50? Any modification needed?

Did plugs on my 01, not bad, just had to remove the throttle body to get to #4, used NGK Iridium. Just did the 96, NGK V Power plugs, NGK wires, Beck Arnley cap and rotor, #6 was a little tricky, runs like an animal (well for a 3.3 anyway) now.

I really like where this is heading! I too considered the Kfab sfd for a while, but as much as I'd really like to go that route and run 33's, it's just not practical for the needs of my dd/weekend warrior. A similar kit in the 1.5"-2.5" range would be ideal. Then for the many that have chosen to go up 2"-3" via spacers and/or springs would be able to bring ALL front end geometry back to (or very close to) factory specs. This would not only aid in the alignment process, but greatly increase the longevity/reliability of cv's, tie rods and ball joints. I'm definitely interested and will stay tuned to keep an eye on your progress. Excellent work so far, by the way.

Did you make those plates? Very nicely done. Looks like you've thoroughly sandwiched the mounting area, from a fabrication/structural integrity stand point, I don't think it could get better without tying the upper and lower mounts together on the backside with one solid backing plate, but I think that would be extremely difficult and overkill.

Yes they did in the US, I believe only 99.5 and maybe 2000, was not an available option in 01 as I wanted one. Was told by all the dealers I spoke to before buying my 01, no longer available. Boooo

01 SE 4x4 AC md springs front/rear (net lift around 5/8" after settling) Stock 16x7 se wheels P255/70/16 General Grabber AT2's No rubbing 96 SE 4x4 Saggy stock coils Stock 15x7 se wheels P265/70/15 BFG Long Trails No rubbing (rides like a marshmallow) Trying to decide on my suspension/wheel/tire combo. Option 1: replacing all coils with stock Moog replacements, 1" 4x4design spacers, 31x10.50's on stock wheels painted black (possibly add 1" wheel spacers for better stance or 15x8 3.75bs Bart d-windows). Option 2: AC medium duty coils all around, 2" 4x4design spacers, 33x10.50's on either wheel combo listed above (not sure how much trimming I'd have to do). Trying to keep this project as low budget as possible, so I'm leaning more towards #1, cause it's cheaper and proven, but #2 would be awesome as long as it would work without major hacking.

Not the best lighting in the pic, but if you're referring to the shiny odd shaped "box", that's your engine oil pan. Is it wet above that?

Very cool, going to look for something similar here in the states.

Nice! Does that just replace the mast by screwing on to the base? Looking for something cheap and simple to replace my busted one.

Cardon has 2 different lines, their "select" line is new, the other is reman.

Cardone select from rockauto.com are new units and high quality, not questionable reman units, and the price is great too.

Ahh, nice mod! Looks like I'll have to play with this in the future! Thanks man, looks great!

Sounds like your mileage is on par for your circumstances. Why so much idling?

Ha! Yep, seeing the shape some of these are in makes me feel like I'm abusive. Lol

Chased this code for many months, replaced almost everything in the evap system but still kept getting the light. Mine was also accompanied by a gas odor near the left rear wheel area. I replaced: cut valve, bypass valve, charcoal canister, purge valve fill/vent tube assembly (under recall) and gas cap. Turned out to be the o-ring seal on the top of the gas tank (sending unit). First, check inside some of the evap lines for black particles which would indicate the insides of the canister breaking up. If it looks good and you or your mechanic has access to a smoke machine, use it, it's worth the time, aggravation and money saved.

Another option is to replace the flasher unit with an electronic flasher, which will flash the same rate no matter the load. Some of the "tuner" knuckle heads around here actually like that fast flashing and consider it a mod, they call it hyper flash.

I don't recall what year/motor you have (I'm on my phone with sketchy service right now) but assuming you have the 3.3, then yes, it's pretty much as easy as you've described. It's really one of the easiest jobs to do (on the passenger side anyway, driver side is much more involved). Just get a quality gasket (will come as a set, they don't/won't just sell you one), I prefer Felpro, take your time (going slow, might take about an hour for a first timer). Helps to have a few zip ties on hand also, as sometimes the electrical plugs don't like to slide off the mounts and the little tiny plastic tabs break, not a big deal, just secure them with zip ties when you're done. Also make sure both mating surfaces are clean before placing the new gasket and reassembly.

Uh oh, better check Kyle's pockets (and his recent whereabouts)!!!!! That sucks, but I'm sure another will show up there soon, could even give them your info and have them call you when they get one in.

The ac springs definitely do some settling, when I first installed my medium duty ac's in my 01, I had just under 2" of lift (oem springs were still in great shape, only had about 70k miles), after about 10k they were down to about 3/4" lift from previous stock height. Give them some time to come down. As for centering the wheels in the wheel well (front to back), Rugged Rocks makes some very nice adjustable upper and lower links.

Nice! So jealous right now! I would kill to have an uninterrupted garage day, but with an 18 month old and wife (6 months pregnant), dog, 2 jobs and house, that won't be happening anytime soon. Been meaning to ask you, does your 99 have a sunroof? I've been thinking about contacting you on cl and taking the ride out to check it out. I've become very fond of having a sunroof (on both my 96&01) I know I'd really miss it if I didn't have one anymore.

Yes, quite possibly could be as simple as the fuse. I don't have them but I do have the fuse for them. There is a smll fuse panel in the dash, near your left knee on the driver side, and another in the engine compartment.

Just an fyi- the corner lights are different also, meaning yours will not fit with the facelift front clip. I'd just grab those from the jy too, and try to get them with the sockets. Then you can wire in your turn signals, as the corners are turn/park lights.

I've only dissected 2 frams (regular orange one and a tough gard), both the element in the tough gard was definitely better than the orange, but both had coated cardboard end caps. Can't speak for the ultra synth, as I've never even seen one.

Latch seems to be the same, as far as just doing the fenders first, it's kind of an all or nothing deal. The entire front clip (minus core support) is different.

They utilize factory screws that hold the plastic inner fender liners to the fenders and mud flap/splash guard screws (all along the inner edge of the wheel well.