Manik

Well, the fuse was completely removed from the amp circuit in the passenger cabin fuse block, so, not really sure if there was power still coming in. Guess I pulled the trigger a little to quick. I may just bypass all of the factory wiring to wire the speakers in the doors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All from chopping out an amp! Gotta love these rigs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did a little more searching on the issue and found the neither of the headlights are working and only half of the parking lamps. Rechecked every fuse, found one blown, low and behold, the stereo and dome lamps are working, but, not the headlights/park lamps. That’s an entirely other issue for another day as far as I’m concerned right now. Besides, gotta keep the little woman happy too, right??!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I am attempting to bypass the factory clarion amplifier completely on my old 1995 pathfinder. One of the amplifier connector for the rear amp my kid chopped off years ago. Anyways, after installing a new stereo and using it for a couple of weeks with 6x9’s in boxes which never stay where you put them, I bit the bullet and just chopped off the other connector. Finally deciding to mount the speakers and bypass the amps completely by just tying the appropriate input and output wires together. Sounds easy right? WRONG! Started this whole process, had the rear inputs and outputs all tied together, I thought awesome, this was easy, attempted to power up the stereo to test the rear speakers and the head unit will not power on at all. It has both power circuits as well as ground. I thought, did I fry the unit somehow, replaced it with the factory stereo, same thing, no power, and I know it worked when I pulled it out. Any ideas out there? Oh! The clock under the tachometer isn’t working either, it quit at the same time, what am I missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Id check with some local auto parts stores and see if it’s possible to rent a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder. I had issues with getting the clutch and brakes on these things with mushy pedals. I had a small hand vacuum pump, so, I made a hand vacuum bleeder. It worked awesome. Sounds like you’ve just got some trapped air in the system and either the vacuum or pressure bleeding process will eliminate that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe check the EGR vacuum switch and there is a small almost oval shaped plate as I recall just behind the EGR that may need to be cleaned out. It has a tube attached to it that extends into the upper intake plenum and may not allow the EGR to function properly. It will run just fine, have no drivability issues, but, won’t pass an emissions test at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got a set of pacesetter’s on my 95, fit was actually very good. I plugged one the useless hole with a steel pipe plug and welded that in. I relocated the O2 sensor close the EGR tube to facilitate it heating up on cold starts and drive ability issues. The EGR tube doesn’t really have a good fit in the bung on the header, but, it seals up ok. As for the y-pipe, I used the factory on, cut it apart, added slip fit connectors at the collectors with the with wide strap/band type exhaust clamps and a slip fit between the y that connects the left to the right down pipe and just used standard exhaust clamps there. It takes a little bit of finagling to get it all together, but, once done, it sealed up just fine. I did add an oil filter relocation kit and moved the filter to the drivers side wheel well. Not the optimal place for it, but, at least it’s easy to get to. I will eventually add a removable guard to protect the filter from punctures. Also note: if you decide against the relocation kit, lord help ya, because your gonna need it. Only $30 on eBay will save you a ton of cussing and lost tools due to them flying when you start cussing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think its gonna be a GM 5.3 swap, not really sure yet and haven't put a solid plan together. There is so much support for the GM platforms its almost a no brainer, ALMOST.

Yes, the ones that caught fire were some of the Oldsmobile’s that had issues with the fuel injection system as I recall. And a 300I6 would be a cool foot longer than the VG, it could be done, but, I’d have to shy away from all that body work. That was my thought on the super charged version. I’ve seen the super chargers on eBay for a song and the 3.8’s are so common they’re extremely cheap. I’m thinking maybe a compound setup, turbo charger feeding a super charger. Supercharger for the low end grunt and turbo for the mid to high range power. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do agree, but, the 3.8’s in the 80’s-90’s were riddled with emissions equipment that killed power. Clean that crap up, boost it and go. 300 HP is achievable without any issue and the aftermarket has great support for them. More to chew on I guess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got a set of pacesetters on my 95 and they fit perfectly. The only thing that I had to do was weld in a bung for the EGR valve. Now the collector is not flanged, so, you’ll have to get them welded up or do what I did, I used wide band clamps and they work fine. But, I have been thinking of taking it to a local shop and having either a flange welded to the collectors or, just have them welded up. Haven’t made that decision yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just tossing it out there. I know there are the guys that have done the other swaps like the 4.3L swaps and I've seen guys do a, dare I say it, ford 302 v8 swap, which is understandable with all of the performance parts for it available and the front located distributor the fomoco 302 would seem like a great choice. I was thinking that the GM 3.8 has a ton of performance parts available, along with the absence of a distributor as well as being a similar size and weight of the VG30e, it would seem to be a viable candidate for this swap, Any thoughts on this? I would likely use a gm700r4 trans and do a solid axle swap at that point. I think its high time my pathfinder went under the knife....

I was actually thinking of installing a 100a circuit breaker to replace the fuse link wiring. I did purchase an 80+amp maxi-fuse and holder that also I think would be a good candidate. Just the fact that the fusible links are getting hot tells me there’s an issue there. Any thoughts there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, great news, finally passed inspection. This one has an EGT sensor in the EGR port. I’d only ever seen EGT sensors in diesels. As soon as I installed the sensor it cleaned right up on the emissions. As for the CAT, it’s new, I had it replaced 4 years ago and not long after “My Junk” broke down and has sat until the past couple of weeks. I’m just happy to have it back on the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope never worked on old V-dubs. The cat I actually had replaced already, about 4 years ago and it hasn’t run until the past couple of weeks. I actually got a check engine light come on the first time I took it for inspection. Finally was able to get the code out of the ECU and discovered this thing has an exhaust gas temp sensor which is just below the EGR valve. Installed it, as the JDM engine didn’t have one. No more CEL. Time to try the inspection process again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

or at least on mine. lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, thought I’d give y’all a shot to see if you could come up with any other ideas on how to lower the NoX levels. It passes the low speed ASM (dyno emissions) for all except nox. For a little background, my junk is on engine number 3, long story, but, this engine is a JDM import straight from japan. Just dropped it in, got it running like a champ, ran the old fuel out, filled ‘er up with premium and tried to get it inspected. Huge fail, twice in fact. Pulled the Japan EGR and swapped in the American stuff. I pulled this part off of the upper intake plenum and it was caked with carbon from exhaust. It was located just above the EGR valve. What is its purpose? I did clean out all of the caked up carbon out of it and reinstalled it. Waiting to get back to the station for emissions check. Now for the second issue. At the battery, I’m only getting 13.3 volts with the vehicle running. At the alternator I’m getting 14.4. One of the things I noticed was the fusible link coming off of the alternator wiring to the battery gets very hot. I want to replace that wiring with a fuse block, the only issue is, what amperage are the fuse links, there are 2. The wiring on these things is absolutely hideous. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the exact same issue with my pathy, it’s an issue with corrosion in the connection at the positive battery cable at the battery. The blade connector gets a little bit loose and develops corrosion just like the positive terminal. I stripped the fuse link ends and replaced the push-lock connector with a ring terminal. Problem solved, at least that was mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d replace the EGR control valve. I think I’m having an issue with my EGR as well, but, unsure what as the truck runs fine. I don’t think the EGR is working at all just because it would not pass state inspection in Texas. The upside, 2 more years and its a safety only inspection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet rig. Not often you see an exo- caged WD21. Thinking about that for mine. Been looking for a set of 1-ton diffs for mine for a while. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The wiring schematic is on NPORA somewhere, I believe. If it's no here then it's online. I have seen it, but, don't recall where. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It will look like a pencil mark on the spark plug porcelain. Bubba.....[emoji481]

It sounds like a coil intermittently breaking down. Possibly a plug wire. Check you plug boots for "tracing". It will look like a white line on the boot. This is a carbon track that conducts electrical current from your ignition system. Off idle it's not as noticeable due to the ignition being able to compensate and provide sufficient voltage to fire the plugs. You can look at the spark plugs for this too. Hope this helps. That's the most common thing I've seen for what you are describing. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Did you remove the fuel lines from the rail? I had the same issue, spent a whole weekend chasing it, then thought, let's just try this, I swapped the feed and return lines on the fuel rain and she cranked right up. Just a thought. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Moved it to my new property. I borrowed a buddies trailer to do this. Made it a mile from my old house me the passenger side trailer suspension literally fell apart. Made it to my new shop/house and parked it again for who knows how long. Bubba.....[emoji481]