ferrariowner123

IIRC, you don't have to change that, it's a direct swap, just unscrew the uppy downy one, pull the connections from inside the car, there should be some kind of break in the signal line close to the firewall, then, get an XE mast, plug that in, leave the power for the old Uppy downy motor disconnected, and then if your mast was like mine, the fixed wobbly one uses the same mounting holes as the uppy downy one (aren't technically terns fun? Lol) I'm out of town right now on some sad family business but my front fender liners are still off from my bumper replacement, so the next day I get off from whatever, I think I'll do what I need to do down there (replace rear washer pump, and put back on the fender liners) and take some photos of my mast setup, mainly because I don't think my explanation can do it justice. So give me a few days, if you don't hear from me, shoot me a Pm and ill try and get it done. Just going through some tough stuff right now. -Kyle

Hahah, yeah, just happens to be my next car, nice, lol

This guy does. Why?

The whine could easily be the tensioner as well, I bought a cheap tensioner that I regret, but under no load, it sounds like an old subaru outback, getting quality parts makes a difference, but as others have stated,timing isn't that hard, shops make it sound like the end of the world, and had us all tricked, it's a regular maintenance part, so they make it fairly easy to change, because the manufacturer wants you to change it. -Kyle

I had a go uppy and downy one before, been broken for years, so I found a floppy at the junk yard, it's a direct swap, it's just annoying to get to. No pics, but it's exactly what you think it is. The chrome molding goes in the same place, and I think you just don't plug the motor power in? I honestly don't remember. -Kyle

They are fairly easy to find on ebay. Plus you can hit up importers to see if they can snag you a pair.

That's literally the definition of JDM, lol

You can buy Nismo extended lugs, it's for the 240's, I would see if those would work.

Dude it totally possible, i replaced my knock sensor in the correct location, just don't be afraid to break the hose, get yourself some nice long arm needle pliers from harbor freight and go to town. Devoniawalk has the right idea, just get down in there loosen them up and pull!!!! then you can the the upper plenum off, next you'll have to deal with the lower plenum coolant lines, it goes from the thermostat to the lower plenum to the back of the engine, that one really sucks, its a like a 3" long 90º hose that WILL MOVE. But it will eventually give up. I agreed with you though on those hoses, they are a like a word im trying to think of. Starts with B end with itch. Keep at it man, you'll do just fine. It so satisfying once you get down there and get at your knock sensor. -Kyle

JDM headlights???????

Dang, i didn't know duratracs could be stopped??? lol jk Looks like you had some fun, i have to get atleast one mudding trip in soon with all of the snow melting now. -Kyle

I REALLY like those wheels, mainly because i'm jealous of that paint, that green with ALL black accents look absolutely fantastic!!

You don't have torsion bars, you have coil springs, and to get the lift, you simply replace the springs. I can see where someone can get confused, alot of mid-sized SUV's like ours, run torsion bars. Hope this helps. -Kyle

I couldn't think of a good one to say the rear axle carriers, and while being really distracted at work thats what i came up with.

Unless your last BMW was Le Mans race car, the jack points pretty much carry right on over. The rear diff Rear drive shafts tubes Pinch seam under the driver and passenger doors.(Tire changing point for bottle jack) The front cross member And if you have to, the Lower control arm mounts. Just saying, alot of this stuff is fairly universal.

Here's how you jack up your car.. You go into the car, open the glove box,(yes the glove box, bare with me) there you find a mysterious and strange book called an "owners manual". Legend has it that Nissan actually put it there when they built the car. and if the rumors are true its a complete guide to working on your car. Its has directions on changing oil and how to jack up your car. BEST OF ALL, IT HAS PICTURES!!!!!

It was all custom. There is no bolt on kit for these cars. -Kyle

I would get a set of EBC pads, would be a healthy upgrade over stock, and the best part is the just drop right in. Thats what i'd do. Definitely no disrespect for wanting to stick to OEM. Give Alkorahil a call. He can should be able to hook you up with some OEM pads. -Kyle

What about getting a longer spring that has the same spring rate (tension) so you don't have to extend any mount or bracket. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea if you ever wanted to sell the pathy. Just swap the springs. (in the event the new owner didn't want the lift) -Kyle

Oh your talking about the old axles, my bad, i'm referring to the new ones shuddering. My bad, my brain is all over the place right now.

He's not experiencing clicking. clicking and shuddering are different. From the sounds of it, its an imbalance in the axle.

Sorry buddy, don't have a clue.

I'm thinking either ball joints, sway bar bushings, or steering rack bushings. I have this same clunk (from the sounds of it) passengers side. I have replace alot of what you did, same result, still have the clunk. it comes and goes, but for my rig its looking like the ball joint, i saw a small amount of grease on the passengers ball joint,(where the noise sounds like its coming from). but since i had just rebuilt the CV's when i found it, i wrote it off as grease from that . I haven't been driving my pathy recently, but it wasn't there when i stopped. so i don't know what going on, im saving my money, because it looks like i might have to pay taxes, which suck, but if i don't i'm going to get new ball joints, and new O2's. Also, have you check the rear suspension, perhaps a blown trail arm bushing could cause it? Just a thought, some times the noise is rather miss leading. Keep me posted if you figure it out. -Kyle

$100 for all 4 boots and the tool, roughly Prices are in the link i provided.