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Posts posted by theexbrit
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I'm not sure about an aftermarket protector but, there are very strict guidelines set by the government that regulate collisions from all angles. She SHOULD be safe.
Does the word "Pinto" mean anything to anyone..............
:laugh:
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The other answer is not to worry what others do and appreciate what you have.
B
I second that.
I seemed to get a lot more power out of my VG33 by doing a throttle body clean, installing manual hubs & adding electric fans.
Just my 2 cents worth.
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Great write up!
Can't go wrong by following that.
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Depends on how long you've had the car? Has it been changed before?
Water pumps shouldn't make any noise so it's probably on the way out. On a recent trip to the desert a Mitsubishi Montero was with us & it had a noisy water pump. The water pump finally gave up the ghost in the middle of a place called Fish Wash & I ended up towing the Montero about 10 miles, most of it off road.
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Here's a comment I posted after I did mine........
"The timing belt isn't that bad, take the rad out, remove the belts, pulleys, plastic cover, etc. The only problem I had was the nut that holds the crank pulley was a bee-arstard to get undone, had to put a long breaker bar on it, rest it against the inner fender & then kick the engine a couple of times
I know "purists" are going to scream bloody murder that I used such a half-arsed hillbilly method, but hey, it got the job done
".
You don't need a light, just make sure you mark the pulley's & the back plate with white paint or something so that you can keep them lined up, then you won't have to worry about the timing. If you try to start it after the TB change & it runs rough, you're a tooth off.
Here's a link to a thread with a couple of photos......
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34405-timing-belt-job-done-thanx-npora/
As devonianwalk says, make sure you replace the belt, tensioners, etc, while you're there.
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I have the 3.3L but I'm presuming it's the same tranny. Mine shifts a little hard from 1st to 2nd especially when it's cold, but all the other shifts are smooth & no hesitation.
An E46 BMW transmission it certainly is not.
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I've used my Hi Lift once & had it attached to the brush guard that I used to have to lift the front. I agree that HL jacks are really only for very high clearance vehicles or to use in certain situations. A few froaders I know use these & say they're great....... http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-Spare-BOOSTER-Mopar/dp/B004T636JS
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or in a still decentish shape from a life of work
Sounds like me!!!
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Unless you can get the lift arm of the jack all the way under, it might bend if you can only get the lift arm under the loop part.
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Wow! Your truck came factory with a tranny cooler? Never knew these had that option?!?
Pretty much same cooler I have. Except mine is a Hayden. With the amount of room available, and where you wheel with the heat. Why not try cleaning up the old one and running with the new cooler in series?
Into the new cooler, out the the stock then back to the transmission? For a little bit of extra cooling capacity?
I think the SE's &/or models with a tow package as Tungsten said, are fitted with tranny oil cooler (it's in "section 310" of my dealer workshop manual). The diagram looks exactly the same as my cooler......
I thought about using both coolers but I think the B&M will be more than sufficient on it's own, I never had any overheating tranny fluid problems I'm just making sure I don't get any. I'm keeping my old one though, just in case
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Where are you planning on installing the second battery? (I'm assuming this = 35 mins of debating?)
I'm trying to get it under the hood as I'm too lazy to run a 4gauge wire to the back of the car
Apparently, you can fit 2 side by side if you turn them 90 degrees. I need to make new tray first though. If I had my snorkel finished I'd probably put the second battery where the old air filter box was.
90seven said "No pics, didn't happen", so here's a couple of pics of my latest "mods"...........
B&M cooler with oem tranny cooler
Installed, through the grill, fog light removed
Missing Link bar installed
I actually prefer the look without the fog lights, makes it less "mall cruzer" I think. I just did the fog light mod so that I can switch them on any time, with or without headlights, so when I get my bumper I'll use the circuit for some other front lights. I also have a couple of other lights that I'm going to install on the front somewhere, shine them out to the sides of the front, it's a barstaaard trying to see what's there when making a turn in pitch black desert nights, the headlights don't shine out to the sides nearly enough.
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Installed my B&M tranny cooler & my "Missing Link" cross bar, then stood there for about 35 mins debating where to put the second battery in my new dual battery set up. Still couldn't decide.
Oh, & I removed my fog lights.
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Yeah, I had those same issues & about the same degrees. I'm going to slot the strut holes next chance I get.
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I just ordered these louvers from this local company, $60 shipped. I'm going to cut the ends into angles as I don't like the squared off look........ http://rodlouvers.com/-Pair-of-Angled-double-Row-24-Louvered-panels-P2005276.aspx
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5 inch strut spacer with 3 inch SFD
Did you have any positive camber issues?
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My next project!
Great write up S. One question, where'd you get the metal from, you said a local metal shop right?
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$200 for cams.
Or search for new job, new place to live, new strip club.....err places of entertainment.
As much as I hate where I live, (the jobs here suck) I sort of like where I live. 2 hours to the ocean, 10 minutes to 2 different lakes and some decent wheeling, and an hour to snowboarding.
I've thought many times about registering my truck at my moms address in Colorado though........
Trog, your second paragraph sums up the whole reason for putting up with some "inconveniences" in regards to certain laws & regulations
Try living in Britain, you have tons of "inconveniences" without any of second paragraph benefits!
:D
Just kidding
There are a few benefits to living in Britain::: good TV comedy, non-sensationalized news programs & morning fry ups!!
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Great stuff!
Anywhere a poncey pink jeep can go, a nearly stock Pathy goes better!
:laugh:
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Depends what you mean by "cheap", I bought an El Cheapo Rage Motorsports rack ($80) & it's been good so far. It's a smaller rack maybe 45"x50" or so, no problems yet.
As for lights, I have some KC Daylighters that go for $100 a pair from Pepboys, nice & bright but they're regular bulbs so they're a tad yellow. I saw some LED lights for about $160 that I'm interested in. Believe me, once you're tried HID or LED you won't want to go back to halogen.
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Just wondered if I needed it in So Cal, but I guess you have similar temps in FL
Thanks for the info.
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How hot was the tranny and do you have an aftermarket tranny cooler? If not and it is plumbed through the radiator, you are actually adding heat to the radiator from the tranny.
B
I'm planning on installing my new B&M tranny cooler in a week or two, it's wayyy bigger than the stock one so I'm wondering if it will be ok to bypass the pipes that take hot tranny fluid to the bottom of the rad & just go straight to the B&M from the tranny?
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I've had my 31x10.5x15 Kelly Safari AT's ($100 a pop, Discount Tires special) for about a year now & overall they've been pretty good tires for the type of Froading I do, but they do have weak sidewalls (that's where both punctures were). Also, they only air down to about 26psi before they start feeling really "slushy" & feel like they're going to pop off the bead. I'm saving my pennies, I think my next set will be Duratracs or Kevlar mud pluggers.
As the others have said, you're going to be lucky to find any tires for $100 each & Precise1 is right, they won't be good tires.
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:laugh:
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I rigged the stock shroud to take the electric fans so it's still there, I'd just need to remove the electric fans & bolt on the stock one. That is the only downfall with electric fans, a 2 battery system would help but it's still a sob if/when the alternator goes.
Maybe I'll carry a spare alternator with me
:laugh:
Gas tank protector
in The Garage
Posted
The idea of Gary Busey endorsing anything other than Valum pills is a scary thought.
The best Pinto reference was in the hilarious 1984 movie "Top Secret".
Don't mean to hijack the thread but here's an interesting Pinto snippet..........
"Fuel tank defectControversy followed the Pinto after 1977 allegations that the Pinto's structural design allowed its fuel tank filler neck to break off[6] and the fuel tank to be punctured in a rear-end collision,[6] resulting in deadly fires from spilled fuel.
Allegations and lawsuitsCritics alleged that the vehicle's lack of reinforcing structure between the rear panel and the tank meant the tank would be pushed forward and punctured by the protruding bolts of the differential[16] — making the car less safe than its contemporaries.
According to a 1977 Mother Jones article by Mark Dowie, Ford allegedly was aware of the design flaw, refused to pay for a redesign, and decided it would be cheaper to pay off possible lawsuits. The magazine obtained a cost-benefit analysis that it said Ford had used to compare the cost of $11 repairs against the cost of settlements for deaths, injuries, and vehicle burnouts. The document became known as the Ford Pinto Memo.[14][17][18] This document was, technically, not a memo regarding the Pinto specifically, but a general memo Ford submitted to the NHTSA in an effort to gain an exemption from safety standards; it was also primarily focused on the cost of reducing deaths from fires resulting from rollovers, rather than the rear-end collision fires that plagued the Pinto. It was nonetheless submitted in court in an effort to show the "callousness" of Ford's corporate culture.[4]
An example of a Pinto rear-end accident that led to a lawsuit was the 1972 accident resulted in the court case Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Co.,[19] in which the California Court of Appeal for the Fourth Appellate District upheld compensatory damages of $2.5 million and punitive damages of $3.5 million against Ford, partially because Ford had been aware of the design defects before production but had decided against changing the design.
RecallThe National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) ultimately directed Ford to recall the Pinto. Initially, the NHTSA did not feel there was sufficient evidence to demand a recall due to incidents of fire. 27 deaths were attributed to Pinto fires (the same number of deaths attributed to a Pinto transmission problem) and in 1974 the NHTSA ruled that the Pinto had no "recallable" problem.[20]
In 1978, Ford initiated a recall providing a plastic protective shield to be dealer-installed between the fuel tank and the differential bolts, another to deflect contact with the right-rear shock absorber, and a new fuel-tank filler neck that extended deeper into the tank and was more resistant to breaking off in a rear-end collision.[6][21]
Schwartz paperIn a 1991 paper, The Myth of the Ford Pinto Case, for the Rutgers Law Review, Gary T. Schwartz[4] said the case against the Pinto was not clear-cut.[22][23]
According to his study, the number who died in Pinto rear-impact fires was well below the hundreds cited in contemporary news reports and closer to the 27 recorded by a limited National Highway Traffic Safety Administration database. Given the Pinto's production figures (over 3 million built), this was not substantially worse than typical for the time. Schwartz said that the car was no more fire-prone than other cars of the time, that its fatality rates were lower than comparably sized imported automobiles, and that the supposed "smoking gun" document that plaintiffs said demonstrated Ford's callousness in designing the Pinto was actually a document based on National Highway Traffic Safety Administration regulations about the value of a human life — rather than a document containing an assessment of Ford's potential tort liability.
Schwartz's study said:
I was living in England at the time, so to me an exploding Pinto was just a horse that trod on a land mine!
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