theexbrit
-
Posts
1,266 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
33
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by theexbrit
-
-
I had exactly the same problem on my Sierra trip last year. Middle of the California heatwave, going up a long, steep hill in 102f weather, low revs so water pump turning slowly, slow speed so not much air coming thru the rad. Boiled up a couple of times had to use the old heater trick same as you. Turns out my electric fan temp sensor was in the wrong place (couldn't be bothered to fit it into the hose somewhere so I used the other sensor provided that fits between the rad fans. Should have know better) so I placed it down in the water, set it 186f, nary a problem now my son!
I thought my radiator might have been some of the problem as it was the original rad, so I replaced it with a new Koyo, it helped but the resetting of the 'leccy fan probe made all the difference. I know you don't have electric fans but the slow turning of the water pump, the uphill load on the engine & the slow turning speed of the fan are the culprits. I tried to find one of those "reverse water pump" thingy's that pump more water at low speed & less when you're on the highway with the wind whistling thru your rad, but they don't seem to make 'em for the R50. I've heard of an electric water pump but never seen one. If you're going to be doing a lot of slow hill climbs in hot weather you might want to invest in some 'leccy fans, set correctly they'll at least make sure you have tons of air blowing thru your rad & over your engine at low speeds. Heat travels to cold, so no matter how hot the outside weather is your engine will always be hotter, even the hot outside air blowing thru the rad is still cooler than the system in your car. As I said, since I moved the probe & set the fans to come on at 186f I've never had another problem. 'Leccy fans will bump up your gas mileage quite a bit also!
-
My cel keeps coming on & then going off when I get low on fuel, the codes showed oxy sensor & knock sensor. Because the cel light is intermittent I was told the evap canister is bad so I'm going to order a new one plus the evap solenoid. I'll check my vacuum pipes also.
-
I believe an Xterra bumper will fit with a little modding. I was also looking at an XJ bumper, nice & small & it should fit although the Cherokee is about 2" narrower than a Pathy I think.
-
Just downloaded my 99 R50 icon!
Thanks for posting.
-
Found this about programing, hope it helps..........
"The Nissan system can learn up to four different remotes. If a fifth remote is entered the
first remote is "bumped out" as only the last four to be entered are remembered. Any
time the system is programed all remotes to be used should be re-programmed to avoid
unintentional "bumping"
1. Locate the electronic module. (Located under drivers seat on the right side.)
2. Under the center of the Nissan label on the top of the module there is a 7/8" hole. Rub your finger over the label to locate the hole. Punch through the label with your finger or a dull object such as a pencil eraser. Inside the hole is a square yellow button. This is the programming button.
3. Cycle the ignition key to ON then back to OFF. Press and hold the programming button. The siren will emit four single introduction tones followed by a five tone burst. Release the programming button. The siren will now emit single prompting tones at one second intervals. Each prompting tone is an opportunity to program a remote. After any prompting tone press the large (arm/disarm) button of a remote. The siren will immediately emit a confirmation tone. Wait for another prompting tone and press the large button of another remote. Repeat until all transmitters to be used with the vehicle have been learned.
4. Turn the ignition key ON the OFF to exit programming mode.
5. Test remotes and cover hole on top of electronic module with tape." -
I got mine on Fleabay for about $30-40 I think. Works great. Just do a search & you'll find them.
-
The guy narrating sounds like a Walmart greeter.
I like trog's comment about Nigerian email scams
-
1
-
-
I have just the group for you!
I run an off road meetup group, in fact we're heading to Anza Borrego this weekend.........
-
1
-
-
I have my main spare on the swing out carrier at the back & a smaller (29.5") spare on the roof. I haven't noticed any drag or loss of mpg but I have so much crap on my roof rack I wouldn't have noticed anyway!
Before anyone asks, I have 2 spares as I do a lot of desert exploring, miles from anywhere & guys in my group have gotten 2 or 3 flats before.
-
I may do an Arizona trip before long, here's a link I found............
Here's a rating guide for Arizona trails.On the same page you can click the "trails" tab it will list a lot of AZ trails & their rating.......
-
1
-
-
Where's the machine guns & the flamethrowers?
For that price I'd expect them to be standard, not an option.
-
Yes, I do see the brackets
but it doesn't really show you how they're mounted. It just shows them going into the slot between the door & the pillar so my question still stands. -
F*ck the Sh*t pipe! Buy pre-bent pieces of 3" exhaust pipe and bedline it! It "looks" like something you have bought but it WAAAAY stronger and isn't made to shuttle pieces of poop and tampons into the earth... jeez
How'd you attach it to the windshield frame?
-
How'd you get the old bulbs out of the little plastic holder crazybob? I haven't really tried but it seems like they're jammed in there.
-
Note in this video the Cherokee gets stuck & had to take another run, while my Pathy makes it up the hill no problem. Now, if I'd just gone a bit further up the hill before I turned............
-
There was a small flare thingy on the bumper too.
-
Here's a shot of my "Ghetto" fender flare hole answer, kinda looks Steampunk!
:laugh: ..........
-
1
-
-
Dat be how I did mine.
You do have to slide the CV axle out a little as XPLORx4 says otherwise you can't get the ball joint out. Took me about 30 mins per side (with my buddy helping).
(by the way, really nice write up XPLORx4)
-
There's no need to overthink things, really. Just about anything will work fine. Mobil Super 5000 5W-30 and a Purolator Classic L14610 should be cheap at WalMart, about $16 total.
I think a lot of the "horror stories" that people put out are generally because they didn't follow the rules. As TC said if you change the oil & filter every 3-5000 or so, any oil & filter will do. People go way longer between oil changes, or again as TC said, have other problems but blame the oil or filter for sludge, etc.
My dad got over 350,000 miles out of an old 4-banger Hillman Husky back in England in the 1970's without synthetic energetic high mileage multiweight non-dinosaur skeleton oil & without silicone magnesium titanium-plated plasma cut plutonium coated oil filter doohickey's.
:laugh: :laugh:Just change the fluids on a regular basis & you should be fine.
-
2
-
-
Back in the late 60s a group of us from the dealership used to go out there for a weekend of fishing but things have really changed since then. Now we just drive by and never stop
where else can you play in the desert, play in the snow in the mountains. and go to the beach all in the same day
You forgot to add "in Winter".
Which kinda knocks WA off the list.
:laugh: -
:laugh:
I love all the different opinions
I wonder how somebody like Pennzoil & Fram can stay in business for all these years if they're so bad 
I'm not biased to any one product & I agree that Fram filters seem like shee-ite with all that cardboard. I watched a couple of videos on YouTube where they cut open different filters & the Purolator seemed to have lots of filter surface area compared to the Fram, also better bypass valve, etc.Anyway, I'm not trying to start any "oil fights", everyone has their own thoughts on these subjects. Personally, I'd like to find a good oil & filter that MOST people agree is worth the money.
-
Great job!!
Unfortunately it has come to late to save my Pathy from dented doors. that kind of cage would definitely have saved my truck, the boulder hit right where the middle bar is!
-
I use Pennzoil 10-30w, don't need 5w as it never gets very cold in Southern California!
I'm also using a dreaded Fram Toughguard at the moment but will probably use something else next oil change. Everyone has their own likes/dislikes as always, & I'm not particularly "wedded" to one brand or another.
As for synthetic oil in a high mileage car here's what I found out from several sources.........
"Should I Use Synthetic Oil In My Car?
That depends on the vehicle's age, mileage, and the carmaker's recommendations for engine lubricants. Older vehicles with high mileage tend to have excessive mechanical wear in the engine, allowing for
internal oil leakage. On vehicles with high mileage, it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil because it is thin and very free flowing, and use of it does (more often than not) result in internal oil
combustion. I used full synthetic oil in a Plymouth Neon. After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied
and the consumption stopped. I logged another 30K miles and sold it. It's still running with over 200K miles today and it doesn't burn oil.
Carmakers use full synthetics and semi synthetics in some of their engines today. In most cases, you will find that a synthetic lubricant is used when there's a high performance engine with tight engine
tolerances, high compression, and high operating temperatures. Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch)."It seems that semi-synthetic is the best choice for high mileage cars.
-
That's great info TC, thanks!
What is the normal water-temperature range for our trucks?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I hear what you're saying, but I've had my fans on for about a year now & they've worked great. 3300cfm & a draw of about 12 amps. I've gained maybe 3-4hp & get 18mpg or so highway (& that's with all the "El Cheapo" crap hanging off my truck, lights, rack, shovel, gas can, spare tire, etc). imho the reduction of stress on the water pump alone, is worth it. That said, they are very noisy & if the alternator fails for some reason..... uh oh.But I carry the stock fan with me so I'd just bolt that back on & head for the road
Electric fans are like a lot of other things, some love 'em, some hate 'em, it's just personal preference I guess.