Jump to content

theexbrit

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,266

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    33

 Content Type 

Posts posted by theexbrit

    CANVAZ 2018 - SoCal/Anza-Borrego 10/5-10/8

    in Trail Run/Events

    Posted

    Canyon Sin Nombre is just a nice canyon to drive through, from there I'm guessing they're going to head along maybe Arroyo Seco Del Diablo (another cool canyon to drive), they're easy but scenic. From there I'm thinking they're going down Diablo Drop Off which was graded a year or so ago but is starting to get back to the hairy downhill track that gave it it's name. From there they're going along "Broken Axle Gulch which is not hard but has a couple of sections that are fun. Fish Creek is easy & you can stop at Elephants Knees & maybe the Wind Caves. From there I would suggest heading over to Borrego Drop Off which had a fair amount of "pucker factor" last time we went down it highres_219142282.jpeg

    CANVAZ 2018 - SoCal/Anza-Borrego 10/5-10/8

    in Trail Run/Events

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, hawairish said:

    Andy!  I'm kinda hoping this trip will be redemption from my last SoCal trip...yeah, that one.  Not sure I'll bring a 2nd spare, but believe me it's crossed my mind and my Coopers have held up great since that day.

     

    I have yet to take a look at the trails on their list (let alone all the pages on the thread), but I may stick with a blue and black.  I'm thinking it'll just be my and my son, probably driving out Friday AM and heading home Monday, but we'll see.

    Ha ha! Yeah that was an "eventful" trip. Good job the FJ wheel fit.

    I just found out I may have something I have to do Saturday but I can head down Saturday late afternoon & hang around Sunday/Monday

    CANVAZ 2018 - SoCal/Anza-Borrego 10/5-10/8

    in Trail Run/Events

    Posted

    I'll be up for this, know Anza Borrego very well. It's a mix of trails, a lot are easy sand washes & dry mud trails but there are a couple of fairly technical trails, one being Pinyon Mountain (this includes Heart Attack Hill & The Squeeze). Some great camping areas & lots of cool things to see if you don't want to bust an axle on the harder trails. Count me in!

    • Like 1

    Shocks for a 2" lift

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So I installed the 5125 Bilsteins today, holy cow what a difference!!! Smooth ride & the rear end is as tight as a ducks arse in water. A great set of shocks, so glad I went with them. The difference over my old 5100's is just amazing.

    • Like 1

    Shocks for a 2" lift

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So, Bilstein recommend the 5100 series for up to 2" of lift, anything over that they say use 5125 or higher grade shocks. The KYB's would probably work fine for most 2" lifted R50's, I had the 5100 Bilsteins for about 6 years on mine & never had a problem, they are similar in length extended/compressed as the 5125's. My truck sat at 20"'s of shock length just on the ground so I needed at least 6" of travel or more, I have the AC kit rear springs with no spacers. The shock length isn't too big a deal as the sway bar is going to limit the travel anyway but when my rear axle is at full "droop" the sway bar & the shocks are at about 26" of travel & the sway bar is pretty much maxed out. The valve ratio on the 5125's is 225/70 so I should get a great, responsive ride in the rear. As for Kickinwing's question, I don't do any hard core flexing but I'd rather have too much flex available than too little, the KYB shocks would have been topping out too much for me & probably wouldn't last too long, if you can afford the Bilsteins I would go for it, I've never read a bad thing about them yet.

    • Like 2

    Shocks for a 2" lift

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply, some good info for folks looking for shocks. I took one of my 5100 series shocks off & measured it, the closest I could find is a 5125 series (33-18552), 255/70 valving, 10.17 inches of travel, 15.91" compressed, 25.93" extended, $75 each. They got great reviews & are pretty much the same lengths as my old 5100's. The 5125's go on "upside down", with the boot at the bottom so they will give the truck a different look...................... https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-33-185552-5100-Shock-Absorber/dp/B00BYNJ7KG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527807925&sr=1-1&keywords=Bilstein+%2833-185552%29+5100+Series+Shock+Absorber

    • Like 2

    Shocks for a 2" lift

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hey all, haven't been on for a while but I finally swapped my bent old rear axle for straight one & I want to fit ne shocks. I have Bilstein 5100's at the moment but the bushings are all shot & I can't find new bushiings. The shocks came with the AC lift kit from 4x4parts & all I can find say they were a special order for that kit. I bought some bushings from Bilstein but they don't fit so I just figured I'd throw new shocks on. Anyway, my question is what's a decent, fairly cheap ($50 ea or less) shock for the rears with a 2" lift? I know some folks are using KYB 34388 shocks but they have an extended length of 23.14" & my Bilsteins sit at 20" on the ground, so 3.14" of extension ain't gonna work. Unless I'm reading something wrong.

     

    Thanks.

    • Like 1

    Front A arm bushing replacement

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hey bro, thanks for the quick reply!

     

    I have a complete shop at my disposal so all the tools will be there but it sounds like a lot of hassle & I'm wondering if the poly is worth it. I don't do any serious wheeling anymore mostly trails & tracks, I'm thinking the original Nissan ones lasted for years so maybe I'll spend the extra coin & get the complete LCA, I think they're about $180 each on nissanparstdeal dot com.

     

    I will put poly on the rear trailing arms as these get twisted when they flex (unlike the front which just move up & down) & this tears the @!*%e out of the rubber. I've replaced the bushings twice in 3 years. :lmao:

     

    I have to get her up on a rack as I noticed some slight "clonking" sounds from the front which I'm pretty sure is the LCA. When I checked them last year the bushings looked pretty knackered.

    Front A arm bushing replacement

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hi all, I'm looking at putting poly bushings on the front A arm/control arms. It looks like the it will be a PITA to get the old ones off & press the new ones on, has anybody replaced theirs or did you just buy a whole new arm?

     

    I know "Justme" replaced his & said it wasn't bad but he had a shop do his so I'd like to haer from someone that has actually done it themselves. I have access to a 20 ton press.

     

    Thanks!!

    High Idle after TB cleaning

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Hi all. I have a 1996 3.3 R50 that idled fine but was gutless up hills, under load, etc. I decided to do a throttle body clean & removed the hose from the air filter box to the throttle body. I found a fairly large hole in the bottom of the air intake tube just before the throttle body, this was obviously causing the lack of power as it meant the car was running very lean. I replaced the hose & cleaned the throttle body, now the car runs great & has plenty of power but it idles at about 1,400 rpm when warm. I (very carefully) cleaned the MAS, then disconnected the battery & reset the ECU so that it could "re learn" the air mixture, etc, but after nearly 600 miles it still idles high. Any ideas?

    Lift Springs and Strut Spacers

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    If you go any more than 1.5" at the front you'll "grenade" your cv joints when off road. The max angle of the cv axle at full "droop" should be no more than 30 degrees, this is the max angle Nissan specifies. If you want more than 1.5" up front you'll have to do a sfd.

     

    Personally, I don't mind a slight rake as it give me better visibility over the hood on rocks. It's not so important to me now as I fitted a front camera! :laugh: :laugh:

    Rear Axle id

    in The Garage

    Posted

    You're talking about the attachment points on the axle where the lower traction/control arms are bolted? (So many names for the same things :D).

     

    Unfortunately, the swap you've described won't be easy. Only some older WD21 axles had disc brakes, and the main thing that prevents it from being a direct swap is the panhard bar running in the opposite direction. There'd be some major fab work required. Then, the locations/angles/distances on attachment points and spring perches might be slightly different on the WD21 axle, you'd need that axle to already have an LSD (you'd want the WD21 version anyway; much tighter), and would have to swap over your ring and pinion gears. Lotta work!

     

    For the disc brake swap, however, you should just need the backing plate, calipers, and such, and the means to separate and press things back together. Lemay on the forum has some sets in his Quebec parts boneyard, and I've got some links about the process.

     

    I have an axle housing for a 96-01 in my garage...it's yours if you want it. I think one of the shock brackets needs straightening, but looks a bit easier than straightening the control arm brackets (which are straight already). I should be able to hammer/bend those tabs flat(ish).

     

    I also have an extra LSD that I'll be picking apart to see if I can improve on my LSD rebuild...will have some extra parts if you're interested in trying to improve your numbers, too. As for the logistics of all this, I've been meaning to get out to SoCal to get some wheeling in with a buddy who was out here the other weekend to overhaul his R50. We couldn't get his winch working, and ran short on time trying, so I told him I'd give that another go eventually. Perhaps we could do a garage day and then a trail day?

     

     

    Thanks for the advice & the axle offer, yes it's the brackets for the lower arms bolt to the axle. I'm interested in the housing & would like to tighten my LSD. maybe we can work out a meet somewhere. Always wanted to wheel in AZ. The brackets have been like this since the day I got the car but I'd really like to straighten them, they chew the bushings up if there's too much flex............

    11875184_1649045125340349_11462308453169

    Rear Axle id

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Our plate is on the passenger firewall under the hood hinge. Mine has it on both the firewall plate and the driver's side door jamb near all the tire information, but this wasn't the case for my buddy's 02 SE.

     

    All R50's have the H233B rear axle. Only options were HG43 at 4.363 (48:11) and HG46 at 4.636 (51:11). Other Nissan trucks/SUVs have different ratios with the same codes: HG43 at 4.375 (35:8) and HG46 at 4.625 (37:8). Early Xterras and Frontiers had HG43 and HG46 in our ratios, as well as HG49 as 4.90 (49:10). Any of the above, plus several others not listed, work in our rear axle.

     

    Front R&Ps from any other Nissan will not work in ours, in case you're planning to swap in gears to match. Unless a vendor says specifically that the R200 gears are for, and only for an R50, will they work. Our R200 axle is unlike any other R200 axle.

     

    Here is the 'original' thread, but isn't fully applicable to the R50, and doesn't discuss the differences in the R200s (I can explain if you'd like).

     

    Whatcha got planned?

     

    Looks like I have the HG46 LSD. My rear radius arm brackets are bent (not me, but a PO) & they chew up bushings pretty fast as the bolt is off center. I was thinking of putting another axle on but would like to maybe do a disc brake conversion & I'd like to keep my LSD.

     

    Rear Axle id

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hi all, haven't been on here for many a moon! Nice to see a lot of old familiar faces.

     

    I was looking for a thread that had all rear axle & diff info (how to id your axle, etc), searched everywhere but can't find it. Anyone know the link?

    • Like 1

    R50 CV axle recommendations

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    been away for a while but I have a question. I need to replace my front left (driver side) axle/driveshaft, I blew an inner cv joint. Does anyone have any recommendatuions as to a reliable axle, A1 Cardone, Masterpro, FEQ, USA Industries, EMPI, suretrack, etc???? :shrug::scratchhead:

     

    Thanks.

×
×
  • Create New...