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Posts posted by theexbrit
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Is it the 325 code? I have had the 325 on for about a year and it alone won't turn the ses light on. Its just one of those codes that gets stored and noticed when something else triggers the ses.
Same as me, it's supposed to be the "heated rear O2 sensor". Mine comes & goes depending on the fuel level
I replaced my evap canister & valve, O2 sensor is next.
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Hids work fine if you use the right temp (color) under 5000k anything over is useless in the wet . Under 5000k is in the white to yellow spectrum the lower you go 3000k being quite yellow and 4300k being white.
I used to use the common 6300 to 6500k and found in the wet it was like using a candle useless so swapped to 4500k, which is almost as white as led if you can get 4300k grab them as they are generally spot on to led color temp and excellent.
I have the 6500k's & you are correct sir..... @!*%e in the wet. I'll get the 4500k's next time.
That looks exactly like my 24" led bar, did you get it off Fleabay?
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Where have you guys found the best prices on the LED lights??
Fleabay for Chinese knock off light bars, although most of the "name brand" light bars are made in China anyway, probably by the same factory
I have 2 Ironman 16w spots on my front bar & they're really good, the 120w light bar on my roof is a knock off but it's well built & works great.
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No, it won't fit. I have one from a WD21 sitting in my garage right now if anyone wants it. The hinges are totally different & all the latches, etc, too. I was lucky & mine originally had a swing out but a previous owner had switched it for the underneath carrier. I still had the bolts & all the catches, etc, that fit on the body, so all I needed was the carrier itself. If yours didn't originally come with a swing out your rear panel probably isn't strong enough to support a carrier, the panel was reinforced on the ones with the carrier. If yours didn't originally come with a carrier, you're better off fabing a custom bumper with a carrier attachment. I believe there's a few places you can buy one all ready to fit, Tactical Armor Group is one place. If yours did originally have a carrier, hit the wrecking yards for an early R50, it's surprising how many had swing outs. A member from up north found one in a wrecking yard, bought it & shipped it to me for less the $150 I think.
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Where'd he go???
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Man, that is one ugly van
:laugh:
:laugh: Everyone has their own tastes I guess
I bet it's more off road capable than the new Pathfinder though......
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I got a generic remote off of Fleabay, works great! I did have my old remote though & I can't remember if I had to use the old one to "teach" the new remote the code, I'll try to remember.
This might help.......... http://www.triple-c.com/How_to_find_your_cars_lock_or_key_code.cfm
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When I cleaned my TB I had an idle of about 2,000 for a few days while the ECU "relearned" the settings. I was also getting a knock sensor code & a "rear heated oxygen sensor" code. Both of these now come & go as the fuel level goes up & down, not in any regular way but just random on & off. Car runs great though. Hope you get it sorted.
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Probably put them in the parking/side lights, that's what I did.
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Thanks. It's actually a bumper for an XJ Cherokee, you have to cut the brackets & bend the edges (under the parking lights) out a little & it will fit. I like it because it's a really small bumper height wise & I wanted something minimal instead of a big arsed Tac Armor Group bumper or something similar. I'll get some photos together & make a build thread.
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Stick with 15" rims as PrestonBurns says, you want the max sidewall on a small rim for froading.
I still have my 31x10.5x15 Kelly Safari AT's with a 2" lift. They're pretty good for off road, I got mine for $100 each plus fitting. Once I get my SFD I'm going with at least 33's if not bigger.
I also agree with nismotr, tires & lift first, manual hubs are also a good idea if you want better mpg & less wear & tear on your "weak-compared-to-solid-axle" cv joints & drive shafts.
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^^^ Very true, I had some KC Daylighters & they were bright & threw the light a long way, but the white light of my 24" LED bar is much nicer & way brighter too. As you say, not the same distance but 7,500 lumens is enough light for me, especially for $120. I just removed my Daylighters & now only have the bar.
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Hey all, just wanted to say that I'm not going to be on much for a while, stuff going on will be real busy. Going to try to stop in when I can, everyone take care and thanks for all the good info, will be back soon.
I think it was just a ploy to see how popular you are/were!!!
:laugh:
:laugh:
Glad to see you back
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2wd & bicycle tires! That's driving skill par excellence........
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6000k HID in the headlights, 7,500 lumen LED light bar on my oem fog-lights switch (modded so that they turn on without the headlights), 2 x 100w KC Daylighters (soon to be removed), El Cheapo side & rear illumination.
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Got my Harbor Freight 12,000lbs winch fitted. Had to move my LED light bar temporarily, may end up putting it on the roof.
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I measured the angle on mine & it was about 23 degrees at max extension. I think i have a pic somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.
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I believe that the VG33L is an interference engine, so your valves could be bent.
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Took a couple of pics of the amp I installed yesterday, nothing fancy it was a quick install:
fans:
amp is dirty !!
Bad ass!!!
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LOL, KISS!
The black will look good against the gray...
B
Get a little mud on there, no one will ever notice!
Actually it might look pretty cool on gray.
How many Toyotas can we get stuck?
in Off-Topic
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What a bunch of nob ends!
:laugh:
I see there was a Heep Cherokee in there also.