Leo94

Any thoughts on the whole situation?

Ok so today I managed to change the oil today as my filter removal tool came in the mail. As soon as I removed the drain plug the "Oil" gushed out, not like when you normally remove a drain plug it literally gushed out. It was draining really quickly and had such a low viscosity from all that fuel getting passing through the rings and into the sump. It quickly filled my 6L drain pan so i had to replace the drain plug so I could empty the drain pan into a larger container. I then continued to drain the oil again as well as lowering the car so more fluid would flow out and in total i had about 8L of a oil/fuel mixture. After putting in a new oil and filter I started the car and the smoke slowly went away and was only smoking abit. The idle seems to have improved but when i nudge the throttle it revs then seems to bog down for a second and pickup itself again and start smoking abit more but not as bad as before the oil change. I dont know if you can hear in the video but it sounds like it has an intermittent miss which is probably my distributor cap which needs to be changed. After changing the oil it seems to have picked up a knock which i think is the hydraulic valves which you should hear in the video. EDIT: ​Actually in my second video you can hear the knock and in the first video you can barley hear it when i rev the engine.

I cleaned the maf sensor today and boy was it dirty. Idle improved abit but not much. I tried starting the car without the maf sensor and it did struggle to start just like unplugging the chts but idle improved greatly this time but then it bogged down as you can see in the video.

I haven't gotten around to changing the oil yet because when i got the chance none of the oil filter tools i tried managed to remove the filter. It's really stuck on there, the filter is blue and im pretty sure its a oem nissan one. I tried starting the car without the chts plugged in and it cranked abit longer but it seemed to run smoother and without a miss although still smoking up allot. Here is a video to show you guys what it's doing I don't know if it helps much but it gives you and idea on how it runs. I'm going to try and clean the maf sensor and see if that fixes it.

If you think you have a head gasket problem DON'T drive it until you can confirm what the problem is or you could end up having to replace the engine if it gets real bad. Did the noise you mentioned go after you replaced the water pump, if not what does it sound like? Remove your oil cap, dipstick and radiator cap and check for and brown/creamy residue. When your car is running try and get a quick waft of the exhaust smoke to see if it smells sweet that is if you're running coolant.

You can start by checking your codes, it sounds like the common coolant temperature sensor. When was your fuel filter last changed?

You could tie it into a rear bar, are you going to do anything for the roof?

What about only allowing the first post to be edited or something? Usually on a write up that's all that's needed.

Make sure to get a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual) while your at it.

And can also stop them from putting salt/sugar in there

That's not a stupid question we were all new to something at once and its always good to get a second opinion, I'm sure someone will chime in soon on your question.

Ok thanks for the clarification. The reason i'm asking is yesterday my internet was stuffing around and i accidently double posted but couldn't delete the second post. Also what about write ups e.g my1path's mpfi swap post, editing the first post makes it easier and more neater if the first post can be edited.

I'm having a forum issue now where i cant edit or delete posts?

Most web browsers allow you to download a full page. Depending on the browser all you have to press is File/save or save as

Did you get around to checking the wires?

There's an "auto save" feature but i don't know how to use it. You might notice when you type a long message or wait abit it will say "Last auto saved: xx:xx:xx". When you're writing a long message just copy and paste it into word every now and then.

This video shows how to remove the transmission and do a clutch on the v6 but it should give you a general idea on what to do except this is a 2wd navara so there's no transfer case. [media=] [/media]

Do you plan on going off road with it?

I think he was stationary and his dash is acting up because its staying on 14mph and slightly moving but if you look on the top left every now and then you see a light thats outside the car so he would be stationary.

I though he was talking about the red one, damn worst of luck.

Didn't he mention something about the mechanic using zip ties on his distributor or something like that on his other topic?

Considering everything you've replaced on that pathfinder i'm surprised your still having all these issues.

I'm in Brisbane, the wd21 is 86-95 and r50 is 96-04.

^^What he said, make the hayman reese your last option there's plenty of shops that offer heavy duty towbars for the wd21 just call around and yes the 95 is a wd21.

Hayman reese still offer a class 4 hitch for the wd21 but its abit pricey.