Daddy Rim

I'll answer what I can. 2. They can be purchased through just about any local parts store that deals with Cross Canada auto body parts. They are $53 a piece. 3. Not sure on common problems, but I have had a leak in one of my lines that runs to the evaporator which needed to be replaced. 5. I have put on the roof racks from my 97 on my 01 without an issue. I liked them better. I can't comment on any other years but I would imagine there is some interchange. 6. You may be able to get the bush bar to fit, but there will definitely be some custom work involved. You may simply wish to buy an appropriate for our model bush bar. 7. You shouldn't smell gear oil, but perhaps you have a leak somewhere? Are you sure it is gear oil you are smelling? Cheers Rim

True, I was slow to respond to you about rear spacers as I have not yet made any, but I always have 1" front strut spacers in stock and now also have 3/16" steel strut flanges which can be used to make the front lift blocks for folks doing subframe drops. Apologies to anyone who I have been slow to respond too, but between full time work and consulting, the parts business suffers.

I would not have any fears of rubbing issues with these tires, however if your local shop will let you, perhaps you can trial fit another size you are curious about, i.e. 265-70-16 or other sizes, that way your content with your purchase. From 255-65-16 to 265-70-16 you are only increasing by ~1" diameter. I do not have the dimensions or own that particular style of OEM rim, but I would assume you could fit slightly bigger without issues if you so desired. Just a thought. Cheers.

265-70-16 Goodyear Wrangler MTR's fit perfectly on my wifes 01 with OME HD springs. Stock rims and no rubbing to speak of. Personal preference. We had 245-75-16's previous to the 265-70-16, but made the switch as the 10 ply's were much too rigid for the Pathfinder, but were free :-) Never any issues with either tire size. Cheers

I use 5W30 Mobil 1 in all my Pathfinders in the winter, VG and VQ. If ever your questioning the use of synthetic or 5W30 in the winter, leave some 10W30 and 5W30 outside and first thing in the morning try to pour both out. The same can be done for synthetic vs conventional oil. Synthetics (from my experiences) will always flow better despite have the same weight designation.

I think you'll have a hard time with the fender flares and brush guard, but the rims and tires should fit (bolt pattern is the same). You might want to check the offset and tire size to confirm that you won't have to do any trimming. Definitely a good bush banger for that price if it runs well enough.

Really? I was under the impression the recall did not apply to post 2000 R50's, as my local dealer informed me.

My thought here is that it will probably be cheaper to replace with a new fender and have it painted. Fender seem to be getting cheaper and cheaper through the online aftermarket retailers. Nissan Aftermarket Fender

The only caveat to removing heat shields, although I have done the same thing in many locations, is that the extra heat can damage the surface coating on the floor. By damage I man it will heat and cool continually and the surface of the coating cracks permitting oxidization to occur. It depends mostly on the location and is not an instant effect, but it helps the cancer along.

I've had good luck with OME MD and HD springs. If your replacing them you might want to give them a whirl.

Just an aside, for those who want to see some extreme uses of leaf springs, you should investigate 1/4 elliptical suspension. Definitely not saying an R50 can accommodate such a setup, but it's a common setup on jeeps and Samurai's. Both of the links below have some shots of the 1/4 elliptical setup. Google "Eddie Casanueva" or 'Arachnid' for more pictures of the Samurai with 1/4 elliptical setup. http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/quarterellip/ http://zukioffroad.com/suzuki_samurai_page_of_fame.htm Many folks would say that it is not "streetable" but with proper link setup it most certainly is and has been done numerous times. Cheers Rim

Been there, not fun. You'll be requiring a spot weld drill, or any drill really and basically you'll have to start working your way around drilling it out. I would suggest you obtain your replacement rad support to see exactly where all the attachment points are, then start drilling it off. That's about as much of a procedure as I can provide, it's not tricky, just labour. Once all the components were removed I think it took about 1-2 hours of drilling... but I remember some tight spots where I had to use my right angle drill. A little vague on the details I know, but it was about 8-9 years ago. Rim

I replaced my strut bolts with G8 9/16" x 3"(IIRC) fine thread. They are M14 bolts to begin with which are not normally stocked anywhere in my neck of the woods, so I went with the nearest size imperial, worked like a charm. My replacement sway bar end links have M12 x 1.75 threads on them, but it could be different for OEM or other replacement part suppliers. HTH Rim.

I second that! Delrin does perform decently well however with synthetic based lubricants. Case in point, the seat tracks in many GM products use Delrin balls with a synthetic lubricant which permit seat adjustment in cold and hot weather. Someone on this board was attempting to make some spacers our of Delrin about a year ago IIRC.

If mounted in between the upper and lower brackets, it would top out MUCH more readily, especially with new AC coils.

There is one caveat to mounting between the upper and lower isolator (strut mount) brackets. Unless your spacer has a dished out center and not a large bore, there is a risk that the rubber isolator can be pulled out of it's mount. The OEM lower bracket ensures that it is sandwiched in place. Hence why I offer two styles of spacers, one specifically for top mount and the other for middle mount. That being said, I have had two sets mounted between the upper and lower brackets and not had any isolator issues, however it has been reported from other members that they have had issues with the isolator pulling out from the upper mount. I can't discount other peoples experiences.

I'm offering both styles of spacer, one that mounts between the upper and lower isolator bracket, and one that mounts on top. It's personal preference. As for spring choice, having had both OME MD and HD's up front, for everyday soccer / hockey driving in the wife's '01 the HD's are a little rough, but the MD's ended up being just right. When I had stock suspension configuration on my '97 with the ARB mounted on the front, the HD's were the only way to go.

That's an excellent site! Who is the owner of this stuff? A PCOA member?

Great job at posting pics! Your truck looks great!

As was mentioned exact bolt length is a little tricky, and you would need either a weld nut or some magical hand contortions in order to hold the nut under the lower isolator bracket while fastening; it's a pretty damn tight fit on the inside of the strut to the strut tower. The only way I see that working is with weldnuts on the lower isolator bracket. And doing it this way really wouldn't require that the spacer be threaded, it could be simply a clearance hole. With weldnuts, the only variable left would be having proper bolt length. 1/2" x 2-1/4 would most likely work and not hit the upper spring perch. To negate all of this broohaha, I have been supplying new lower isolator brackets with the larger hardware already installed as an additional option. This negates a few of the steps that new4x4r had to go through.

He ordered the spacers threaded, meaning that you bolt the spacer to the strut assembly. The splinned press fit studs are pressed out (you can easily use a hammer and larger socket under the head of the stud) and holes enlarged to permit use of the larger G8 fasteners which are included with the kit. Hope they work out well for you new4x4r.

From the FSM here are the diagnosis procedures for each Code. Code 5 Code 5 Code 11 Code 11 Code 12 Code 12 Hope this helps. Jeff

I second the big bang sound being top out. If your hearing a sound during normal driving hitting little bumps etc, it could be rod ends, ball joints or sway bar end links. Check for wear in those items. I seem to have had a bad rash of sway bar end link failures on TRW lifetime guaranteed parts installed on the wifes '01. Always the first place I check for wear in the front end. Cheers

2.5 years running with 1" spacers, OME HD's, the same CV axles that came with the truck, and now at 311 Km's... Maybe I'm cautious in skider trails and mud, or maybe it's just not as bad as people have made it out to be. I blew a CV in my 01 only because a big tree branch ripped the boot and by the time we drove back into town the boot had been mixed with mud and sand in the grease... But to each their own due diligence, which your also helping to provide. Cheers.

That happened on my 01 as well, though luckily I caught it in time. This is the first I see where the isolator may have somehow gave way, hence my curiosity. Would've been interesting to have all the failed components to be able to conduct a better post-mortem.