Daddy Rim

Having both in my stable right now, I have to say that the abuse the VG takes is phenominal, however as mentioned, it's very underpowered compared to the 01. I have had multiple sensor failures on my 01, all of which have been greatly annoying on the road, though they never left us stranded thankfully. They include: MAF - now using cheaper maxima MAF Both intake timing sensors - $80 a pop Transmission issues Changed TCM Changed solenoid pack Add to that the cheap ass Bose (clarion) 6 pack changer which has the ERR2 issue that I will not be sending in for repair, a nasty oil leak from the oil cooler and it all tallies up to a vehicle that has brought but a mere fraction of the reliability of the 97, now at 305,000 kms, compared to 179XXX km's on the '01.

Mine has rust on most of the welds, but not on any visible areas, mostly in the area where the winch sits. Other than that it's pretty clean and durable.

I'll be updating both this board and the website shortly. I'm still waiting on a few things. I apologize for that. And as with the stuff I brought to market in the past, I was by no means in competition with other fellow enthusiasts, rather I was trying to fill a void. Same goes here. I applaud all those who have and will bring items to market for underserviced vehicles such as the R50, among several others. Cheers

I think you'll find that any mechanical component in the seat adjusting system will be expensive. Moreover, the dealership will most likely only provide a complete seat adjuster assembly. Very rarely will a dealership provide components for an adjuster system as they are normally provided by a Tier 2 supplier as a seat complete assembly. If memory serves me correctly there is an issue with the "memory" motors on these seat adjusters whereby the motor brushes hang up.

Why wouldn't you just do a three link setup? They are commercially available.

No you haven't necessarily let the cat out of the bag. I was somewhat asking for it I suppose. But because I am not really posting images and progress I don't want there to be a flurry of negativety surrounding this venture. I'm doing this as an enthousiast who loves motor sports of all kinds. I have not tried 35" tires yet, only 33's. I definitely will be trying 35's, but I don't like the way the trim will interfere when the suspension is under full compression. 33's are nice and clean and in my humble opinion fit the wheel well radius nicely. But I will definietly be putting 35's on my 97 to see both how it looks and what devastation may result. Once I'm happy with my end product, I'll be fabricating two new units, one for the '01 and one for the 97, nicely powder coated (another service I'll be offering) and ready for show and go. Since there is so much interest in the braces, I'll probably start producing these after May 12th (family weddings and commitments until then).

NX4 is me or will be once again. First of all, this venture started in 1997 making parts for Suzuki Samurai's, restoring autobody and making utility trailers, but it all faded over time with a flooded market and other life commitments. This time, product diversity and commitment to more than one brand will hopefully make this fly. Secondly, I would like to applaud the effort of others trying to bring a similar product to market. It's great to see enthousiasts working to bring product for everyone to enjoy, and best of all proper testing being done. My efforts are in no way aimed at flogging competitors, infact, I've found it best in the past, with the Suzuki world, to work collaborately. I hope that anyone's who's working on products for R50's or any other vehicle for that matter don't give up, and bring to market more items for our and other vehicles. That said, I started conceptually on the lift idea two years ago, but I didn't want to bring anything to the table to anyone until I had something I thought would be a safe and marketable product. Personally I like to overbuild, and that was the approach I took with this venture. My 97 thus became a test rig and I'm pretty close to what I think would be a good marketable product. In the mean time, I'm working out the spring issue and making the subframe a little more easy to build to bring the price where it should be as well as making jigs. The afformentioned price point is the target but time will tell. As for the other items, such as the strut bar, I fabbed and installed mine because I felt it necessary. I also installed fender braces which bolt to the upper rail and to the door hinge locations. This was all in effort to ensure strength in the front end. In addition to the Pathfinder items, I've also developed rear suspension links for Suzuki SX4 and I will soon be getting back to work on the LS1 Mazda 929 swap. Several issues with that last one, but it will work out once I have the time to devote to it again. I've decided to abandon all 240sx ideas I had because of a flooded market filled with domestic and chinese components, but I will continue to work on 280Z stuff since that is my baby... besides my wife and two children of course, who ultmately take priority over any business venture. Anyway, I will NOT post pictures at this time of my developements, but I will keep those interested parties updated on future developments. I'll probably start selling the spacers, strut bars and rock rails soon, but they are sort'ov low on the priority list right now. Again, my efforts to bring a different R50 lift to market are in no way in offense to or aimed at taking business away from other people. I have always done this stuff on an enthousiast base because it's something I have loved since I was a child. My initial intention in 2002 was to bring to market mini baja racing cars, but there again the market has been flooded with cheap chinese products that are being eaten up. I personally think they are poorly built, but will satisfy the everyday consumer who will simply drive them up and down dirt roads. Anyway now I'm just rambling...

I'm also interested in this trade. I have the 6 spoke 16" rims from my 01 LE. Cheers

You may! I'm going to try and program it into the CNC this week or early next week. If enough people are interested I'll do it cheaper :-) Though I doubt since a group buy was just done on the 3/4" spacers. Tyler has some 3/4" spacers already made if you need something urgent.

Merçi! Made some 1" strut spacers today, not sure what I'll make tomorrow... I was thinking about welding up a storage rack to mount into the hitch receiver. I'm sure you can buy them... but it's cheaper and more fun to make!

Man... all the negativity! sheesh! hahah I just made two of them up yesterday because my other one was rusty and my 280 doesn't have one. I think it looks kind'ov neat, had two people message me to make one for them, so I can't be all that crazy. I know Lacquer won't keep it looking great forever, but it's in a truck so I'm not all that worried. I'm anodizing the one for my 280 since I can anodize at work.

It has a clear lacquer finish on it. I have another made that I'm annodizing red for my 280Z. :cool2: And yes I should clean the engine / battery, but that is a very old battery that is sitting in the truck, (since it's off the road while I mod it) which will be replaced by a new Interstate battery which is currently sitting on the driver seat. My '01 is cleaner I promise!

Nice and shinny! Love polished aluminum!

Ummm Wheat Thins and chinese take-out.... Out of curiosity, how were these cut? waterjet?

According to the FSM, P1130 CAN be caused by an intake leak "between the intake manifold and the swirl control valve actuator". However there may also be issues with a solenoid or wiring, as suggested in the FSM. You may want to download a free FSM from: http://phatg20.net/modules.php?name=Downlo...download&cid=76 This will help you work on and diganose issues with your truck. As for how the K&N routes required vacuum lines I'm not sure though I know some folks on this board do have K&N intakes so they could probably address that portion of your question. Cheers

Awesome scenery! Nice pics!

If you visit the NICO site, you can find a list of common problems, which are mostly sensor related. That, to me, seems to be the only weak point of the VQ series engine. Cheers

I'm sure he would tell you if he bent it, but if they bend the mount they could just as easily say it wasn't their fault.. BUT it's rather simple to do so I wouldn't worry about that... BTW these splined studs can be purchased from Spaenaur.

They are splined studs not strux studs so constant pressure from a press or large vise can get these out with ease. I have the exact same diameter splined press in studs at work that I used to replace an existing broken one on my 97. I used sockets and a 6" vise to get it out.

176,XXX km's on my '01 R50. Thus far we've had to change both intake timing sensors and the MAF sensor, where I chose to try the 01 maxima MAF to save some $. Have now developed an oil leak at what appears to b the oil cooler line on the front passenger side of the engine. I think I read something about this being a common issue somewhere... Unrelated to the engine though is my anger with wheel bearings... They just don't seem to last as long as they should. We're also having transmission problems whereby the shifts from 1rst to 2nd are very abrupt, especially when the tranny is cold. There is a TSB for this issue, just have to try the repair.

Add another 01 Pathfinder to the list. Working great! Thanks to everyone on the forum who posted this issue and Dave Burnette from South Point Nissan.

Are there any symptoms that the valves may be coming loose or operating improperly? Forgive me as I'm not familiar with the operation/purpose of these valves. The reason I ask is that upon startup, or approx 15-20 seconds after I start my 01 Pathy, it begins to sputter, sounding somewhat like a misfire condition. This lasts for approximately 15-30 seconds, then the engine comes back to normal and the engine has all the power it normally has. I have pulled the code for the MAF sensor and a new one will be on it's way very soon, but I'm somewhat doubting this to be the cause. Any advice here?

Was there not some conversations about the alignment of these spacers on the AC board? I remember comparing two supplied drawings and noticing a significant difference in bolt alignment. I know the subject of material came up and Delrin, though expensive, seemed to be the material of choice, though I'm sure Al is perfect in this case. I really can't see disimilar metals being and issue in this application. $80 is a great price folks. I would charge at least that if I were to CNC these myself.

Those lines look like they've seen better days. It's been my experience that when you disturb them, you'll end up replacing more than just one. If my lines were looking like that I would as you mentioned, use compression fittings and replace the rotten sections of line. I'm not sure if you can get pre=bent line for the R50's like you can for most north american products but it might be worth asking your local parts store.

It sure if beautiful up here, but honestly, there is even more beautiful country further North. And it's nature you can enjoy, not like here where it's mostly privately owned and you need permission to go anywhere. There is some really beautiful country North of North Bay ON and North of Sudbury ON, in and around Onaping area. Cheers