Daddy Rim

Currently $110 per set, hardware included. :-)

I'm surprised to see the issues with assembly. If you check out the instructions, I offer alternatives to tack welding, that being a chemical adhesive. I have personally tested two with great success. The only downside is that you have to wait for them to set. The adhesives I recommend are: Lord Fusor 110B/111B Locktite 271 Tack welding is of course the quickest, but be sure to coat your weld with a rust prohibiting coating if you do, to avoid any corrosion issues. Cheers, Jeff

7 hours is a great turn around. Mine took almost 5 weeks by the time they received parts and figured out how to do the repair.

If you're off road at a slow speed it shoudl not be an issue, however I would NOT recommend you drive the truck without a front sway bar end link on public road ways as it will totally change the dynamics of the vehicle. Some on the forum may have done this, but you will notice huge body lean and severely altered handling. It's a quick fix with readily available parts.

The bearing tool can be had for approx $10 from harbour freight or similar. Its the one for Isuzu, or at least that is the one I purchased which works great.

Rgallant, your pathy look identical to the 97 I had. Same color, same gold color tubular side step bars. Nice!

My wifes 01 had 245-75-16 on stock wheels and suspension without clearance issues, several years ago. Wouldn't worry about that size at all.

From my disussions,AC procurtes their own springs. OME springs are slightly different than AC's offering.

Just an fyi, we ran our 97 until it had well over 205,000 miles and sold it. It was poorly maintained before I got it at 185,000 miles. Its still on the road. I wouldn't worry about a well maintained 150,000 mile unit.

I ran OME on both the 97 and 2001 as they were better price wise to obtain in Canada. Was happy with them.

Be cautious. The Snake racing spacer is designed to mount between the upper isolator and the lower bracket. This should not be used in conjunction with lift springs as the strut will be too close to its full extended length, resulting in top out issues. The only way around top out issues when using a strut spacer and lift springs is to mount the strut spacer on top off the upper isolator, thus not forcing the strut closer to its fully extended length. Be sure that you can mount the snake racing spacer on top before placing your order. 35mm is the absolute maximum you would ever consider going as you risk damaging the CV joints. I would highly recommend locking hubs.

Well I guess I should chime in. I have enjoyed reading everyones posts on the subject of max CV angles. Personally I have not had any negative feedback from any of my customers to date on the spacers. Again I believe the results will vary on a case by case basis. What I've always found important to remember is that every "field" situation is different. You have a much greater chance of grenading a CV joint when your suspension is fully extended, especially if you hammer the throttle to get yourself out of a trouble spot. Also it should be noted that many people are installing lifts on vehicles with high mileage. It begs the question, what is the condtion of the CV prior to the lift? I would argue that a spacer will present no greater risk of CV joint failure during normal operation. To further that argument I have had both the 97 and '01 in a similar situation crawling through skidder trails with full extension, and have yet to change the CV on the '01 with 232K kms and the 97 had 331k kms when we sold it with the original CVs. But again, its how you drive I suppose. I'm not a throttle hammering type of driver, even in sticky situations. Just my $0.02, and as always I appreciate everyones collective experiences and opinions. That what makes forums great.

Nope, no mess up, if you read the instuctions, they provide details on how to secure the studs in place prior to installing. You may have missed a little step is all. You have a few options to secure the stud in place, one is to use an adhesive such as Loctite 454 adhesive gel or other chemicals as recommened in the instructions, or you could always spot weld the fasteners if you have such capabilities available to you. As an option, we offer the lower strut brackets ith the longer studs pre-installed, however the studs only have to be secured long enough to install and reach their proper torque value, thus an adhesive, after curing, should provide you with sufficient torque off to permit safe installation. Should you have any further questions on the install, don't hesitate to shoot me an email sales@nx4industries.com Cheers, Jeff

I still have one set that Iwill sell to NPORA members for $110 + shipping if your interested.

My '01 experienced the same "floaty" feel, which required an adjustment of the steering box preload. The FSM has instructions on how to make this adjustment. Oddly only my '01 required this adjustment and not my 97 that had amost double the mileage. If all of your steering components, i.e. steering rack bushings, tie rod ends etc are in good condition, this may be something to look at. J.

Shoot me an email and I'll send you something from the FSM. sales@nx4industries.com

I can completely sympathise. I went through the same issue last year. I tried contorting my wrist in some ugodly fashion to get that bolt to thread into the nut. I ended up removing some surrounding items and accessing the back of the alternator from under the vehicle IIRC. I remember getting several cuts and scrapes from this job.

Yeah... another hockey weekend. Defnitely difficult to get back to anyone. Three kids, all in either competitve hockey, swiming and dance (daughter only). On weekends, I seldom have a life... I guess I should update my picture since that one was from 8 years ago when I had hair, was 20lbs lighter and had life by the short and curlies with my fleet of 240sx'.

You will not want to combine the snake racing spacer with lift springs as it will lead to strut top out. The snake racing spacer is equivalent to our middle mount spacer, which mounts between the strut bracket and strut isolator, which, like ist springs, places the strut closer to its upper travel limit. Combined with lift springs, you would have hardly any vertical travel left. To draw a comparison, I have sold 1 middle mount spacer set to date. I think you would be happier with lift springs alone. Jeff.

Looks nice and level! Can't say how nice it would be to be at a beach like your pathy is sun bathing in... all our beaches are covered in at least 3-4' of snow...

I have the OME MD springs in the rear and they can definitely handle both towing and rear payload. I cannot compare to AC springs, however the OME springs are a much heavier gauge than OEM springs. I personally wouldn't hesiate to prucahse them again had I a need on another R50.

Depending on condition, you may also want to replace the bracket which has the three studs pressed in it. Sometimes they can corrode quite heavily. This goes directly underneath the insulator bracket. Part No. 54322-0W010 (one per side). Cheers.

I've been looking for it as well as I wanted to be familiar with the repair procedure the dealer was going to follow. Unfortunately I haven't been able to access it either.

IMG_0989.jpg looks like they used some fiberglass in addition to the bolted bracket?

I'm amazed they did the work that quickly! I was quoted 2-4 days to do the work.