Daddy Rim

If I'm correct looking at your pictures, the strut didn't break, but rather only the isolator failed. It looks as though the threads on the strut are still intact. Is this correct that you've had two OEM isolators fail this way in one year?

FSM states 3.7L with oil filter. It's never recommended to overfill the engine as depending on the design, the crank may churn the oil, causing it to aerate and thus cause oxidation in the oil whereby it loses its lubrication properties. It may also cause foaming of the oil to occur. Additionally over filling can cause issues with seals and oil pressure. All worst case scenarios... in some cases it may just burn off... That being said, it's difficult to say if the extra ~0.2L would cause that or not, I would be inclined to say no, but I would do your own due diligence and fill it only to the 'full' mark on the dipstick.

Glad everyone was alright! Love those pictures. Hopefully you weren't responsible for cleanup on that job. Hitch saved my bacon twice in my old Samurai, once killing a Ford Tempo, and the other cracking the bumper quite nicely on a Chev Corsica.

My 97 does the same, though it seems to come alive more around 24-2500 RPM. With over 300K, and the abuse it see's as a test rig, I expect no less. But for the last ~100K it's been that way, but perhaps not as bad as yours. It can still tow quite well and is great at low RPM's crawling through the skidder trails. Cheers Jeff

Been following the build on www.cdn-ntc.ca, looking great! Look forward to seeing the final product.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why wouldn't you just make it part of your installation instructions to drill/tap the hole to a larger size, such as 1/2", which is a very common size and hardware will be cheap. As long as folks are careful drilling, there shouldn't be an issue. I've redrilled / tapped several bolt holes in the subframe and front cross member to enable using imperial sizes. Bolts are cheaper and always readily available. That's how I mounted my front skid anyway... just a thought...

The only "Extra" cost is for the 1/2" hardware, which is only a few extra dollars vs the 3/8 hardware. The option for the pressed in studs will be more, because the fasteners again cost more and it includes a new bottom bracket. Hope that clears it up. Again, please visit the website for future product releases. www.nx4industries.com Regards

Just to provide some clarity, I'm going to offer this as additional options. Some folks may wish to purchase the lower plate with press in studs and the spacer only or perhaps including the upper isolator mount as well. For the initial offering, the spacer will mount on top of the isolator upper mount. It's not mounted in between the upper isolator mount and lower stud bracket. That will be coming in the near future. Costs for all items mentioned will be posted on the site, again all in Canadian $. Unfortunately, this lower bracket will be a modified OEM unit, thus not made in Canada along with the isolator mount, which is a KYB. For some folks, and I'll be completely transparent here, you may get the isolator bracket cheaper from other vendors or parts stores. Might be shooting myself in the foot, but heck I wouldn't want to overpay, so why should you. Please visit the website for official product launch updates. www.nx4industries.com Powder coating will be an option for all parts in the very near future as well. Just awaiting my new industrial setup

Dean I applaud you and your group. That is simply great! As for children, I have three and always buckle them up. What child wouldn't love to be running through a trail with mud flying everywhere, especially when it brings you to a remote fishing spot. Kids are a blessing and I choose to include them in all of my activities, as long as safety is always on your mind there are no issues. Now the dog... he's a little more difficult...

Wow, that hasn't happened to me thus far... over 40K of hard mudding and skidder trails... But this does warrant further investigation. Thanks for sharing your results!

It would appear that you are correct. I can't comment on the Snake Racing install directions. You could mount mine either way... But it depends on how much you want to push the CV joints. Here's my personal opinion. For my 01, I wouldn't care if they were on top because the odds of it running with one wheel off the ground except for here and there are minimal. Now for my 97, I will not mount them on top, as I have already lost 1 cv joint, and I put that rig in the air, and frequently have wheels air ridding when running through old creek beds to get fishing or through awesome muddy skidder trails.

I've uploaded my instructions to my website. Instructions Click Here

I just noticed that you already had your struts setup to install, but are awaiting your spacers? I saw that you had your bolts loose in your top spring mount so I'm going to make the assumption that you are going to install the spacer on top of the strut? Obviously this is entirely your choice, but as a fellow fabricator / supplier of strut spacers, I'm going to recommend that you don't install the spacer on top of the strut. Rather, it should be installed between the upper and lower strut mount. Why? This will maintain the upper and lower limits of the strut travel, effectively keeping the cv angles within a more tolerable operating range as per oem design limits. Placing it on top moves those limits down by 1", which may not seem like a lot, but from experience, I was stubborn installed it on top and blew my passenger side cv. I don't want to see anyone break down due to something I can prevent is all. I have install instructions that I supply to my customers, I can forward on if you wish. Hope it helps.... not trying to be a pest... J.

Your correct Pezzy, I did fit the ARB on my 97, and your spot on, there is a gap between the bumper and the grill. The gap is not noticeable when looking head on but can be seen when looking from the side. I'll try to find some pre-lift pictures of the 97 to post up.

You should probably download an FSM to help you out. But here is the water pump replacement from the FSM. May also want to change your thermostat for good measure while you have your cooling system drained. See link below: Water Pump Replacement

I will echo this diagnosis as mine too is making a bit of a squeal but couldn't be bothered to repair it. Also the FSM points us in this direction with the NVH chart. See the NVH chart in the link below: Water Pump Noise - FSM

Wow! Interesting theory... My 01 has no spoiler and the glass stays pretty clean, my 97 has the spoiler and the rear glass is ALWAYS getting dirty. I go through about three times the amount of windshield washer fluid in my 97, than I do with my 01.

On my wifes '01 LE, I ordered the OME MD front springs and I found them to stiffen the ride quite a bit vs OEM springs Personally if you were looking for a little extra height without making the ride too harsh I would attempt the MD springs or, as many others have done, purchase the AC springs, which apparently don't make the ride as harsh as the OME HD's can. My $0.03

I personally find ALZip a better program as it handles multiple file compression formats. But WinRAR works just the same. http://www.altools.net/Downloads/DownloadA...88/Default.aspx I can't speak on the difference of the 2001-2001.5 models.

Visit the link below for a 2001 factory service manual download. http://phatg20.net/index.php?option=com_re...info&id=166 If you want to try a good parts guy, may I recommend: Dave Burnette 1-888-254-6060 South Point Nissan Austin TX The part number you may need is 226802Y001(again, its worth investigating properly before simply replacing parts even if this is a very common failure)

P0171 and P0174 codes are often caused by a bad MAF sensor on 3.5L pathfinders. This is a common problem on these vehicles. They can be replaced with a somewhat inexpensive alternative to the Pathfinder MAF. See the link below http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12280 It would also be prudent to download an FSM and conduct the proper diagnostics procedures as indicated in the FSM for these codes. Though this is a common problem, there are other causes as outlined in detail in the FSM.

He should also be able to use the cheaper Maxima MAF along with the thermsistor. I used it on my 01 and it's been 30,000Km's without an issue. Check this thread and links for details http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12280

Already googled and found that link, but thanks just the same. They're setup is rather different and they're wiring diagram doesn't coincide with my setup. My questions lie primarily with three wires, numbers 1,3 and 4 in my picture above. #2 I assume is a ground. 1 3 & 4 are I'm assuming, relay inputs of some sort, but I was hoping to get some clarity on which inputs they were. Thanks

As the title says, I'm looking for a wiring diagram for the IPF fogs in my ARB. I have two mystery wires, while the other I believe to have properly figured out. Thanks