erathge

With the stiffer AC springs, and the already more extended strut (due to its oem length, and 2" spring) i don't think bottoming out is much of a worry.. But someone correct me if im wrong. Topping out on the other hand....

Sorry guys, but i just gotta say... I guess good things come to those who wait! Was in Vancouver a couple of weeks ago and picked up a brush guard and tail light guards in mint shape for $150. I was okay with that price, considering the reason i started this thread is because i was looking at one for $175 which had some rust, and a bent bottom bar... When I was taking this picture, it got me thinking how far the pathy has come since i got it, but theres always more to be done! Next up, new wheels, tires and AC lift! (don't hold your breath) Jan 2010: March 2012: Anyways, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but i wanted to share.

I think it really is personal opinion, but I personally don't like the white out when it is an outline, like those Mickey Thompsons. However, when its solid white i do like it.. I mounted my BFG AT's with the white out.

Thats exactly what I do as well! I'm 6'1", we use a double air mattress when my girlfriend and I go camping, it kinda sits over the wheel wells, but once you lie down on it, it just kind of forms around them. My girlfriend actually prefers sleeping in the truck way more than a tent.. It's easier to regulate the temperature if its cool outside, and you get to sleep off the ground.

ALWAYS a recovery strap for pulling someone out, or getting pulled out, other types are not meant for trying to get unstuck and can be dangerous. Something like this is what you should be using with the Dring receiver, also a good idea to pick up an extra Dring or two while your at it. My link When I was first gathering some equipment a couple years back, I unknowingly bought a tow strap with hooks, but was quickly told by people that those tow straps don't have any elasticity, and the hooks can be super dangerous if your trying to use it for vehicle recovery. So now you know, and you wont waste $50 bucks like me on the wrong equipment..

There is only one OME option for the rear (2922) which they call medium duty. For the front springs, their is light (2921), medium(2923), or heavy (2928). Depending on how much weight over stock you have on the front (bumper, winch etc.) you will get different lift heights. I personally only have 2922 rear springs, and they raised the truck about 2.5" at the back (compared to the worn out rear springs). From what i hear from others, to get a completely level ride, you must order the heavy (2928) for the front, the light or medium will give you some rake. Different shops/websites will tell you different lift heights, but just make sure you order the right part number and you will get the correct parts.. Here is the OME catalogue. My link You will see that different front spring rates will all give you .5" lift, if you have a certain weight over stock. If you have more or less, then you will get more or less lift. That is why some shops say it is a 1.75" kit. Make sure you take before/after measurements.. Im interested to see how much is gained with these springs... and pics of course!

Whoa whoa! Im talking about the ones above the exhaust system, under the car.. Not in the engine bay. I have no clue about those ones.. I would not remove those ones

99.5/2000 are the best years! Old reliable VG engine, new body style! As long as you don't mind chuggin your way slowly up mountain passes... WE NEEEEEED PICS!

Yes you could... Most people who do the SFD also have the AC springs.. But if you still plan to run stock wheels and tires it will look REALLY FUNNY!

I think we need a visual haha, is this rack going to even be able to hold your camping gear!?

I would say the easiest way to start is to get rid of the heat shields all together. Ive never heard of anything bad happening by doing that. But someone correct me if they disagree.

That's what I use.. I've pulled lots of people out an have never doubted its capability.

I had surface rust on my rocker panels, used Herculiner DIY bedliner.. Not exactly a "rust paint", but it definitely did the trick.. I can't see any moisture getting though that kind of stuff.. Maybe a spray type bedliner would work too? My link

I have no idea what they were thinking at Nissan when they used those wheels... But yes, the answer is, YES!

Awesome thanks! That's a handy tool. Ouch.. 667.29 all said and done. Looks like I'm better off sending the springs to my Dad in Florida, then him putting them in a box as a "gift" and sending them to me for 100ish..

Hey, so im thinking about changing my game plan all together and instead of doing front OME coils to match my rears, going with the 2" lift instead. How much duty have you canadians paid to get it across the border? Im a little too far to drive across the border. So im wondering, its $360 for the parts, approx. $120 to ship to rural BC, but how much in duty could i expect? Thanks Evan

Try torquing them down... I had a bit of a gap which was resolved when they were torqued. Many people have done this mod so i dont see why it wont work. Let us know the result!

Post pictures if you do! I haven't been able to find a picture of these wheels painted, I was thinking the same thing.

Ive been thinking about doing that, but with these wheels: http://www.finishlinewheels.com/prodimg/ALY62370U.jpg Anyone have a picture of these ones either plasti-dipped or painted black?

Yup, I have a 2000 manual. Going 65 im around 3000. But 20 mpg?! Thats amazing fuel economy.

I have AT's not MT's but.. I have always kept it around the pressure that it says in my glove box and door, 26 psi... The tires are at about 40% now and have worn evenly, just rotate every 5000 miles or so.

Thats the nicest looking pre-facelift r50 i've seen!

I seem to have quite a bit of play in my front drive shafts after I did my brakes and installed manual hubs.. I have a thumping around corners and the only thing that seems to have play in the front end is the drive shafts. In the FSM they say to replace the snap rings every time they are removed (I didn't). The FSM says that if there is too much play, you can use a larger snap ring? Anyone done this? It says: Fixed joint axial end play limit 1mm (0.04 in) I seem to have quite a bit more. Could this be whats causing thumping around turns for me? Like i said, it only started after I did my brakes, that was the first time I've personally ever had those snap rings off. Thanks in advance! Evan.

Nice looking truck man! I've always liked them in white. My windows only work from the switch on the door that the windows located in. (so as the driver, I can only adjust mine.) Kind of annoying, but I changed out the switch as well, and the previous owner said he changed the motors. Who knows...

I would say that replying to an old post is better than starting a new thread.. Because often times theres a wealth of information already contained within an old thread..