erathge

Anyone know if these will work with the thicker AC springs? Good find!

Nice! Its amazing what some plasti dip and proper wheels/tires can do for a pathy, looks great. Only thing personally I would do is get rid of the side steps for that extra lift look.. but thats just me.

265/75/16 wont fit, thats closer to a 32... 265/70/16 or 245/75/16 will fit, possibly some minor rubbing or trimming of plastic

2001 and thats your first rust?! Consider yourself lucky! I have rust on all four corners by the fenders.

While you're at it, would you mind taking a measurement of the rear AC coils before you put them in? I'm looking for the wire diameter of the spring and the total width of the spring across the top.. (I'm thinking of getting a 20mm spacer made to level the rear with the front) Thanks!

Are you sure about that? Take some pics!

Hey, I didn't have the measurements with the OME springs (keep in mind, I just had OME rear springs), but I've had the AC's and an NX4 spacer for just over six months but I'm running 32x11.5x15's and this is how it sits: 36.25" rear, 36.75" front Evan

Aren't we talking about 300 dollars worth of spacers here? The only reason I see why you wouldn't just switch to the AC springs would be the top out issue that SOME people have experienced. I sold my rear OME springs for about 100 dollars to a guy on here... Why not sell your OME springs and switch to AC? Or maybe the SFD! That would look great on your rig and you'd have no problems with the 33's!

Yeah now i run AC springs and an NX4, basically I just wanted more lift and I'm very happy with the setup (and haven't had top out issues, and no problems aligning it as some people would suggest!).

I used to have just the OME medium duty springs in the rear.. unloaded it was about 1.5" higher, when i had my camping gear in the back it sat about .5" higher. I really liked the setup at the time. Probably your best route instead of OEM springs..

I used to run 265/70/16 BFG All Terrains on my 2000 when I had stock suspension... Minor rubbing full lock in reverse when new, after a few months, nothing! No trimming, still had the mudflaps.

Anyone have the measurements of the AC springs available?

I hope you took the pictures at the end of the day ... Nice bumper mod btw!

X2.. Best would be to do a test fit. I have a 2000 and 15" Pro Comp's cleared the caliper just fine. The shop I bought from had one in stock to test it out for me before I made the purchase.

No but its the next logical step. Where was yours so i have a starting place. This wouldn't cause you to loose that much fuel, but there was a recall on the gas tank filler tube. Just thought I would point that out, but I would think you'd notice a gas leak.

I'd say lifted Jeeps compared to lifted Pathfinders in my area is like 100:1... I've never seen another lifted R50 and theres one other lifted WD21 that I see around town. Other than that I see a few 4runners or FJ's every now and then but thats about it.

Thanks for everyones input so far, it sounds like I'll be sticking to regular. I just wanted to see what everyone thought about this, as I was a bit surprised when I heard the service guy saying these things. However, I might try a tank or two of premium and see if I notice a difference in MPG.

I'm with you buddy! This issue is so foreign to me. I've had the same success as you except I put the spacers in at the same time as the AC springs. Couldn't be happier with my setup, been running around problem free for about six months now. Aside from the occasional "top-out" from going over a speed bump too fast or hitting a big pothole..

So today I was with a friend picking up his 01' Highlander (295,000 Kilometres) from the Toyota dealership. The service guy stated that the cat was starting to get a little clogged up and that he should consider running a high grade fuel, specifically Chevron 94 octane. He then went on to say that he runs 94 in his own 2001 Pathfinder and that I should consider running it too (I have 290,000 Kilometres). He said he highly recommends running high octane fuel in older vehicles. The funny thing is, I have read before from other sources that there isn't really a point to run a higher octane in an engine like the vg33. I don't think I could afford to pay around 20 cents/litre more for premium... Comments?

I find this issue really odd.. Has anyone actually figured out why some people cant fix the positive camber issues while others can? For example, my Pathy is a 2000 with AC and NX4 spacer and my mechanic had no problems doing an alignment with two camber bolts per side. Then there others, like Theexbrit who drives a 1996 and had the positive camber issue, and then now Snow4me's is a 2001 and has the same problem. Whats different between all these vehicles?!

If it's the rear it could be your sway bar bushings.. Those can start to crumble away with time. Get under the truck and just start shaking things in the rear and see if you can find it. (upper/lower trailing arms, sway bar/links, panhard rod etc.)

Have you checked your ball joints? I had a bad clunk at one point, and my ball joints were completely shot. When i had the truck jacked up with load on the suspension (jack under the lower control arm) I could shake the wheel and pinpoint the noise to the ball joints.

I dont think anything could be "too soft" for the front springs with the AC lift, haha.

Does your 4x4 light on the dash stay on? Funny you posted this, i put my truck in 4x4 for the first time in months the other day and i noticed a vibration and the light flickers a bit... Havent had time to look into it really though, but i have almost the same setup as you.

What have you done so drastic?