erathge

Hey Guys, haven't been on the forum in years, glad to see people are still modding R50's. I owned a 2000 Pathfinder for 6 years and it treated me very well, sold it three years ago with around 350,000 kms on it running strong. Fast forward... My girlfriend is looking for a reliable AWD or 4x4 and I have come across a 1999 Nissan Terrano diesel with less than 150,000kms. How reliable are the Nissan Diesels? I know almost everything there is to know about the body/suspension/drivetrain etc. on these trucks but I am specifically wondering if the Diesel engines are reliable and/or expensive to fix and how many kilometers one could expect. Also, I have no experience with these automatic transmissions so maybe someone could comment on the reliability of those. Also, how are the strut tower recalls holding up for those who had the repair done years ago? Thanks!

Funny this thread came up, I just had a look at my brakes yesterday, the fronts are three years old and over 50% and the rears I haven't touched in 120k of owning the truck and still look good. No problems stopping my 32" BFG MT's... Brembo rotors with Hawk pads on the front. Very happy with the setup.

I dont see why they wouldn't work, they will be sitting in the spring the exact same way as they would if the spring wasn't sitting on a 1" spacer. I used to have them, but now that I have 2" AC springs they are not tall enough to do anything, basically they act as bump stops now.

Are those the new Cardone ones with the lifetime warranty your talking about? They only gave me the two options (refer to my first post) for CV axles at my local NAPA. But if thats the case it might be worth shelling out about 50 bucks more per axle if they are going to last.

After some thought, I THINK what I'm going to do is purchase the remanufactured ones with the three year warranty. Replacing the axles seem like a pretty straightforward job and a three year warranty should be long enough for me. I'll probably only have the truck another 2-3 years the way the rust has been creeping up on me.

Thanks for the info. Are you taking new nissan ones or the new Cardone ones that I can get locally and swap the boots? Last I checked Nissan wanted over $500 per shaft and the closest dealership is a three hour drive.

Time has come to replace my CV axles, I've had a 2" lift and 1" spacer for about two years now and the boots have been torn for a while now. The axles are definitely finished now as during the last few weeks of winter I had nasty clicking sounds coming from the front so rebuilding the current ones myself isn't really an option. I have manual hubs so they are unlocked most of the summer, but stay locked for a fair bit of the winter. So here are my options: 1. Remanufactured Cardone CV from NAPA: $130 per side, have a three year warranty 2. New Cardone CV from NAPA: $186 per side, have a lifetime warranty 3. Order off Rock Auto for $50-70 and take my chances on getting axles that wont fail, returning them for warranty probably wouldn't be an option because shipping to/from Canada is expensive.

These work, but in my opinion are more of a bandage to a bigger problem. His stock springs are definitely sagged after that many years/miles. I tried to do this with a set of airbags before I put new springs in and they worked for a while, until one developed a leak, Airlift sent me out a new one for free and then a few later one of my air lines got a leak in it. I constantly had around 200 lbs of tools in the back. I would say that this system would be good for someone who occasionally tows or hauls a heavy load, but not as a permanent solution for always having that kind of weight.

Depends on whether you want lift or not, but before I had my AC springs I had just Old Man Emu springs in the rear and the front were stock. I had a bit of forward lean with this setup, but with about 500 lbs in the back like you'll have it should sit just about level.

Yes, its lifted 2" plus a 1" spacer up front, but that wont affect the tire to strut clearance area.

Hey guys, my summer setup is running 32x11.5x15's on wheels with 3.75" backspacing. Ive read all the pinned topics but have yet to see someone running 235/85/16's. I'm thinking about going to this size for my winter tires, but would be using the stock 16" wheels, that i believe have a backspacing somewhere between 5-6". Does anyone know if these tall and skinny tires would clear the strut without spacers? Hoping to make a last minute decision and catch a sale that is still running today. Thanks in advance!

Exactly what I have, no issues, trimmed a bit of plastic in the fenders.. Nothing major.

North Shore Off Road in North Van can get OME springs in, I forget the price now, but I have a feeling they were still cheaper than paying for duty and shipping from the states.

Brake line harness should be fine to just unbolt it, thats what i did. You can also unbolt the sway bar links if you want, this way you might not have to compress the springs as much or even at all. A few years ago I installed Old Man Emu springs without compressors doing exactly what your planning and unbolting the sway bar links. Good luck, and lets see some pics once your done!

Fair enough, just thought you might have overlooked it, hope you get that sorted out and some tools again! Now that I'm home I can supply you with the info your looking for... 15 mm - The loops around the headlights 17 mm - The bolts that connect the brush guard to the frame

Cant you just bring a socket set? No surprises then

Forgot to update the post, but the sound went away about two weeks ago, must have been something stuck to the driveshaft or something. Thanks again everyone.

Thanks for the advice! Rear brakes ckecked... Never, was told they were at about 50% when I bought the vehicle 3 years ago and that was it. Yeah, once it stops raining here in the Interior of BC I'll start playing around with the camera. Hopefully for now it just stays an annoyance. If anyone else has any ideas im all ears

Nope! Usually have the spare tire on there, took it off for the video. Yup, im thinking thats what I might have to try. Make me a bit nervous to do that, especially because it only occurs when I'm giving some gas, not when I'm just idling in reverse. Don't really like the idea of running it like that while on stands.

Here is a video of the sound. It's not much, but if you turn your speakers WAY up you can hear the sound. http://youtu.be/8804SLGf7Ag

That was the first thing I did, forgot to mention. Thanks though! But it's only when I'm moving and giving gas in reverse. Push the clutch in while still rolling and the noise is gone.

Hey everyone. So two days ago my pathfinder began making a strange noise. First off, it sounds like someone tapping a screwdriver on a piece of metal and seems to be coming from the rear underside of the truck. The strange part about the issue that makes it difficult to isolate is that it only occurs while driving in reverse, with the clutch out and while giving some gas. Otherwise I never hear the sound. Any ideas, or where to start looking? Thanks

Forgot to mention that I didnt get an alignment for about three months because my tires were almost finished so I just let them wear unevenly and got an alignment once the springs had settled and I put my new tires on.

Thought I'd chime in because I did it all at once... For a while the front was actually higher than the rear, but now (almost a year later) everythings settled and is level. I had no camber problems and I just tore one of my original CV boots last month so it definitely had nothing to do with "doing it all at once".

Thanks! great find linkinpark! I have the AC coils and 1" spacer up front, but i find when im loaded down for camping and wheeling that the rear is sagging a bit, these should do the trick.