Slartibartfast

Yeah, skip the salt, unless you want them to rot out faster. Best thing for getting the water out would be heat IMO. I'd probably just stick them in the oven at its lowest setting for an hour or so, then maybe shoot something through the holes to coat the metal before sealing it up. I'd be inclined towards spray paint or some kind of oil, depending on how you're planning to seal the holes.

The brake fittings are M10x1 invert flare. I used these, if that helps. Hopefully the copper/nickel stuff flares better than the steel line I used.

The latch-mounted switch didn't work on my '95 either. The assembly wasn't built to come apart for cleaning, and I was surprised at how hokey the actual switch was once I got it open. I didn't have the tools I have now so there wasn't much I could do with it. I ended up rewiring the cargo light to the switch for the tire carrier (for the idiot light on the dash), but I'm guessing your '01 doesn't have one of those. There might be a good spot on the body to drill a hole and mount a generic door switch, or maybe you could fab some kind of bracket to add a proper switch to Nissan's hokey solution.

There was a factory 2WD variant, but I doubt they made that many of them. If you've gotta have the factory parts, look for a 2WD Hardbody at the wreckers. I think the suspension was different, too. The steering linkage was different enough that some guys use it for a strength upgrade over the bizarre centerlink on the 4WD models. The easy/cheap way would be to disassemble the outer joints on the CVs so you've got stubs to put in the holes in the knuckles, then just remove the front diff and driveshaft. No new parts needed, so if it doesn't work out, you haven't lost much. That said, these tend to rot out in the back first, so the front drive components are probably not the thing that's stressing what's left of your frame.

Coolant temp sensor?

The R51 has independent rear suspension, so it shouldn't have that problem.

I'm guessing the alarm system flashes the blinkers when it's armed/disarmed? The alarm I removed from my '93 had a wire run to the marker light circuit for that purpose, but the lights worked just the same when I removed it. I had a look at the '97 manual and it looks like there's a troubleshooting procedure starting on page 226 of the EL manual. (Get your manual here if you haven't.) Looks like most of the troubleshooting is for an alarm that fails to arm (somehow Nissan didn't anticipate "goes off for no good reason" as a failure mode) but if nothing else the wiring diagrams might help you work out how to delete the bugger.

Check wrecking yards and partouts. I doubt you're gonna find a new one.

There are a few options for lifts, pretty well explored on here. Just make sure you beef up the steering linkage to hold up to the new angles. There was a factory brush guard for these, but it's not a winch mount and it's commonly considered a damage multiplier. There was also a factory-option winch mount, but they're pretty rare and IIRC the winch attached was only good for 3k lbs or something like that. There aren't many options for full bumpers. ARB made some, but they're expensive and last I checked, they aren't making them anymore. TAG/KMA made bumpers for these but the name kept changing to keep ahead of bad reviews for stuff way behind schedule/never delivered/built wrong, so I'd avoid that option, assuming the guy's even still in business. Some guys mod Jeep bumpers to fit, some build their own from scratch. I keep thinking about building my own, but somehow haven't gotten around to it yet.

Original transfer harness might get you somewhere. Good luck! The way to get pictures to work is to upload to another site (like postimage or flickr, I'm using Flickr) and embed them here. Kind of a PITA but I can imagine how quick we'd fill server space otherwise.

I've got stuff to do this weekend as well unfortunately. But yeah, do keep me in the loop! I don't make it over to the wet side often (bit of a trip) but will hopefully be over there at some point next summer. A new thread might get more eyes. It's been a while but IIRC I used a Gates belt and tensioner and ordered the pump, seals, and bypass hose separately.

Three open/shorted (nice how it doesn't tell you which one) faults at once after you've had it apart makes me think maybe the harness got pinched somewhere out of sight. Unplug the harness at both ends and check for continuity, and see if anything's grounded that shouldn't be. Might be an easy fix without dropping everything. That said, I'm not a huge fan of push-and-pray transfers and would probably be considering the TX10A swap too! Good score BTW.

You can get aftermarket brass bushings to rebuild a wallered idler. OE is plastic. I've got a 555 (think it was in an AC Delco box) on mine, with a homemade brace.

Yep! One of these days I've got to clean out some of the weird stuff from when I was in high school LOL. Man that lokka's tempting.

LOL yep, not much traffic out here, except on holiday weekends in the summer when the tourists descend. The rest of the time you're more likely to hit a deer than a traffic jam. I drove to the coast a couple years ago and got to experience I5 during rush hour. I'm still convinced that the interchange in Olympia was lifted from an MC Escher sketchbook.

The tensioners in these aren't sprung, though the belt itself can make noise if it's loose. I swapped mine for KYB excel-Gs (non-adjustable). IIRC Adamzan tracked down a set of replacement adjustables for his, though. And yeah, it's a pretty quiet click, especially if you're trying to work the switch and hear the actuators at the same time. That purple seems to be pretty rare! I guess there's a reason for that.

None of the engine oil filters I've taken apart had magnets in them. A magnetic plug shouldn't hurt anything (so long as the body of it isn't made of cheese) but yeah, not sure how much good it'll do unless the engine's eating itself. Might buy you a little time if something does go sideways, though.

The electrical system for the adjustable shocks worked in mine, but the shocks themselves didn't have much pressure left. If the system's working, you should hear a faint click from each wheel well when pushing the switch one way or the other as the actuators in the shocks open or close the valve inside. I could never tell which mode mine was in while driving it, but the "sport" setting did make it a little tougher to rock the truck when it was parked. I'm in north central nowhere LOL. Close to Winthrop.

Probably easier to just link to the manual unless you're on mobile. https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ec.pdf, page 99. If that doesn't work I can screenshot it.

I put a video together when I did my manual hub swap ages ago. Not the best but here it is --should give you an idea of what you're up against if nothing else. +1 on the snap ring pliers. I've had my hubs off several times since and it's much quicker and easier with the right tools. You can also service/adjust your front wheel bearings while you're in there if they need it. My truck's got the factory rear LSD in it. It's much better than an open diff but it's certainly not a locker. Could be a good option depending on your budget.

Nice! I had a weird noise from underneath mine turn out to be a loose hanger as well. I was sure it was trans related because it seemed to get worse when I was getting on it, sometimes on shifts... nope, just the exhaust flexing as the engine rocked or vibrations or something. Nice cheap fix.

Not sure about the VQ specifically but true duals on a V6 doesn't tend to work that well from what I've read. A y-piped system gets a little scavenging from one bank to the other (exhaust pulse on one side helps evacuate the last of the previous pulse on the other side).

I think I used the Moog ones when I did mine. I only see 24mm listed on Rockauto, so I'd assume that's probably right, though you could check the thickness of the bar itself easily enough. Good to do the belt if you're not sure when it's been done. I did the belt when I got mine just to be on the safe side.

I relo'd mine to the back of the driver's side head when I had my intake off for something else. There was a hole back there with the right threads, the harness reached, I figured it would make it easier to get to if it had issues down the road. The service manual suggests the 34 code means the circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage). EF&EC-99 of the '95 manual has a test procedure that has you check the circuit. Looks like the wiring for it goes through one of the plugs on the passenger's side head, so you don't necessarily have to remove the intake to test the sensor, which is nice.

Yeah, something something Photobucket. Amusingly it looks like they've backed off their "no third-party hosting unless you pay us $400/year" and are just watermarking stuff now. Oh well. One of these days I'll finish this thing and get some proper pictures up; there are enough other things wrong with the truck that this has been low on the list.