Slartibartfast

Before going much further, pull the trim off of your doors, look inside, and ask yourself: how much time do I want to spend reaching around in there? I tried to fix a power window on my friend's Pontiac a while ago, and while the trim came off easily enough, the panel was so small inside that I could barely get my arm in there, much less see. I ended up drilling a hole through the window slider mechanism and putting a screw in it to keep the window up. Hopefully the Pathy doors are a little more spacious inside, and you're better at this than I am. I'm not saying it's not doable, but it might be easier to just pick up a set of p/w doors from a wrecking yard. If not, like Tungsten said, you should still pick up the trim from p/w doors, unless you have plans for the hole where the crank won't be anymore. I'd like to assume that the doors themselves are the same, with different bolt-in mechanisms, but I wouldn't bet on it. That said, good luck, and post pics if you figure it out.

I don't use the console cup holders, but my passengers do. And if I'm taking food home, I'd rather put drinks in holders than worry about drenching my carpets every time I hit the brakes. My dad's R50 (pretty sure) had a fold-out cup holder in the back of the console, which was great. Come to think of it, that would be a great mod for the... ... this counts as feeding the troll, doesn't it?

I suggested removing the bumpstops when my dad, uncle, and I went at the frame. They both said it was a lousy idea, because if a tire went out, the axle would travel too far or something. They're both car guys, but their experience is mostly with British sports cars. Maybe PM Shasdakota, looks like he just put 9.9109s on his rig: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29263&st=1200

I read something recently about heated cloth seats, so it's probably possible. I imagine you'd have to tear into it a bit, though; when I pulled my seats out they didn't look like they'd really come apart without some degree of seam ripping. I didn't try, though, so maybe it's easy and I just don't know. You can get seat heating pads from various sources, like electric blankets only 12v, some of which look like they could be sewn in. They probably wouldn't be difficult to splice into the factory wiring. Or, for a quick-and-easy, just get some kind of over-the-seat pad and call it good. Bonus, if it's lumpy or doesn't work right, it's not sewn in. Or, you know, don't bother. I've got the cloth seats in my 95 and they don't transfer heat the way leather seats do. The steering wheel gets pretty cold, but that's about it. Also, welcome. I lurk a lot too, only I can't keep my mouth shut.

There's a word for a 100k VG... well, two words. Broken in.

Chop out the bad stuff, chop a new section out of a junker, weld it up? With a little grinding/putty you could get it looking right again. How's the spot under your rear seats? If it's holey too, might as well cut both patches at the same time. Your rust makes me feel much better about mine! Before/after (different sides, same deal): Left this alone until I can weld it myself: Rear floor (don't have a before pic, but I could put my fist through it):

Warren Zevon, "Carmelita"

John Prine, "The Accident"

My 95 kept stalling after starting/at low RPM, and apparently it was something with the plug for the throttle position sensor. Then again, sounds like you've got a different engine.

There are shocks out there that use a magnetic sort of fluid, which puts up more resistance (harder ride) when current is applied, but from what little I found in five minutes on Wikipedia, those are used more in full computerized ride control systems. I'm pretty sure ours have valves somewhere inside that open an easier path through/around the damper, or something.

One thing I've found about snow driving with an auto trans, and this may be obvious to most of you: if you're stuck, gear down and try again. Once your wheels are slipping, the faster they go, the less traction they have. So when you're trying to climb a snowy hill, the tires start to slip, and the trans gears up, and then you're sliding back to the bottom. Drop it to second and it'll walk right up. Oh, and turn on your headlights! Your car (especially if it's white or silver) is pretty much invisible to other drivers in overcast conditions.

Yeah, if it wasn't for the cancer and the auto trans coolers, these things would last forever!

Well, yeah, when he's throwing rooster tails and launching from dunes he's not exactly hypermiling. But it couldn't do that stuff before. I figure what it could do before (normal driving) it does more efficiently now with the higher compression ratio. Slick250, want to end this discussion?

And I thought mine was rusty! Looks good now, I like the red.

The stock clippy things are a pain. I've replaced most of mine with zip ties.

Thanks. I've fantasized about putting Pathy running gear under it from time to time, but I think I'll leave it alone.

Good to see progress! Your bumper looks great. I'm still a little hazy on how your three shifters work, but I guess it's a good anti-theft measure at least. +1 on keeping the 'spirit' of it intact.

Looks like a fun conversion. Is it just a bolt-on, then, between the 87 and the 01? Is the interior original to the 87, or did the builder hook up the 01 instruments?

Sounds to me like the contacts in the control stick (forgot the proper name) are oxidized or dirty. I've taken apart the other one, for the headlights, and so long as you're careful, it's pretty easy to clean it out. The stick for the wipers should (?) be similar. I don't think the dome light has a relay. The headlights don't even have a relay. The works/sometimes works/dead progression sounds like corrosion to me. I'd pop the cover off the dome light and clean the contacts inside. Make sure they're all touching right, then shoot some contact cleaner in there.

I don't remember who, but someone on here said he used two Ford Explorer trans coolers from the junkyard. I think he paid $5 each.

Got back into town last night, drove it to school and back today, and it didn't give me any trouble. My dad took it out before I did and didn't have trouble either. He suspects he jostled the TPS when he tried to check the air filter, which makes sense with Trogdor hitting his with a screwdriver. I unplugged the TPS and MAF, made sure the pins were clean (they were) and put some dielectric grease in there just to be safe. It started and idled fine afterwards, and though I didn't examine all of them, the vacuum hoses I did see looked good (no cracks). So, it was probably the connector getting loose with age. I had the same thing with a headlight when I did the relay mod, one was really dim until I bent the pins a little so they'd make a better connection. Thanks for the ideas guys, hopefully this is the end of it.

I imagine you could make an airbox for your cone filter if you sealed it up right. Stick a tupperware thing around it, rig up some clips/silicone, and cut a hole in the end to pipe into the fender. Bonus, you can look inside and see when your filter's dirty.

Thanks guys, I'll check my TPS, then see if the hoses are okay. I doubt it's the 02, as it wasn't even connected until I realized a wire was broken, and performance didn't seem to change afterwards. I'll tear into it Sunday night or Monday and let you know what I come up with.

I find it helps to keep a camera handy. Take pictures of everything you take apart, which screws go where, etc. It'll help when you're putting it all back together.

How bad's this dent? Could you just pop it out from inside? You could try the bodywork yourself, or just get a junkyard hood, and save a ton of money either way. I've got a few dents on mine from where a friend and I sat on it, but it doesn't really show up on white. Also, it's a truck.