Slartibartfast

Yeah, on second thought, do the springs too. Hopefully the new panhard will fix the alignment. Good luck!

Or you could use the air like a mechanic my dad knows... he put a tank in the back of his wife's car, and hooked it to a train horn. He says if she drives a little car, it had better have a big horn. It's crazy loud. My only concern would be what a pressurized cage (or bumper!) would do in an accident. That, and the PITA you'd have trying to find that one crack/pin hole.

Check the plugs for your MAF and Throttle Position Sensor. Seems like the MAF plugs/wires go bad more than the MAF sensors do. Also check the vacuum lines, if they're disconnected/split/dry rotted it'll run badly. There's a computer under your driver's seat, and you can pull the codes from it without a code reader. There's a writeup. The pics are gone but the info's still good. Print it out and take it to the truck with you, it'll help loads. And don't let the rice boil over.

The RPM range is interesting... vac line maybe? Any codes?

For what it is, a 4WD minivan, it could be very nice. The confusing bit is why it's called a Pathfinder. The other confusing bit is that I'll bet it still gets something like 18 MPG. Actually, looking on Motor Trend, the 2010's are worse (13/18?!?) than the earlier models.

That's All Right... Rod Stewart

^That's what I was thinking of. Thanks.

In their completed vid/advertisement for the plasma table, it's got lockers. Maybe they just hadn't hooked them up. Doesn't do much for me... not really a truck anymore. Seems like they'd be better of with a legit tractor.

Drove it through the yard rather than down the driveway... that's the most off-roading I've done in about a year. Nice trick with the Pam, I'll have to remember that.

I remember someone on here welded chain between the top and bottom plate of a motor mount. There's apparently a lot of stress on the mounts when you're in 4LO, and the chain steps in where the rubber would fail.

One guy on here had loads of belt problems after running with a loose cover, but only because he went mudding and, well, filled it with mud. IIRC it skipped a few teeth. Maybe you got a stick or a bit of gravel or something up in there? The door, yikes, there's a PITA. Hopefully it's just the hinge that's buggered, I'd replace that first. There's also the chance that it's bent up where the hinge mounts to the door and the body, which could mean hammer work. But hopefully it's just the hinge, or it's a small enough bend that you can just shim the hinges until the door shuts. I'd use the body lines to help line up the door. (You might also try shimming the latch piece on the door frame.)

Replace the bushings and, at least from what I've read, that'll fix the problem. Unless the previous owner really beat it into the ground, the springs aren't the problem, and you shouldn't need to replace them to make the truck safe. I'd wait and do the lift all at once, once you have all the bits.

Approaching 165k... I have a short commute, so maybe next year. LOL

I'd be surprised if a cat went bad that suddenly. And yeah, you might be able to get to the ECU on a two-door with the tilting seats, but on a four-door, unbolt it and pull it out. I didn't just find quarters, I found the PO's french fry collection.

I love the camera setup. Overkill perhaps but damn that looks nice.

Nice jacks. Doesn't look right, but I've only ever jacked mine up from the axle. Also, the whole truck's leaning a little, possibly because you've got a jack on the side there. That is quite the angle on the panhard. It's meant to do side-to-side, yeah, but it's meant to do it at stock height. Lifting without dropping the mount changes the geometry. The one spring looks a little bit off, but I'm betting the 1" lean is coming from the panhard.

Probably a lot of wires etc... pull it out and check before you start making holes. I'd be inclined to put one in the back. It's not like you need two up front, right? Put a hole in the back of the center console (or inside it) and hook it up in there.

Just curious, why is this?

I've done the above twice on mine with no improvement. I think I've tracked the problem to the set of contacts behind the driver's door lock cylinder, but I have to tear into it again to be sure. In the mean time, a spare key is a wonderful thing.

Key to on doesn't mean the car's running.

Why? It'd be that much harder to paint it pink!

... is there some option for power seats I've never heard of?

I think the seat heat controls are on the center console, so yeah, that'll have to come out. There should be two (or more, depending on what options yours came with) blanking plates on there. Mine's got everything but, and the front two spots are blanked. You can pop out the plates, pop in the factory switches, and iirc they'll plug right into the harness. They might be tucked in/under the carpet or other wiring, so dig around a little. The console's a bit of a pain to get out, but one or both seats are also out, it'll go a lot easier. No idea on the timer, though, unless that's part of the switches. You could check the online Factory Service Manual wiring diagrams. Full interior replacement's not a bad idea. Smells seem to like WD interiors. I spilled some pine-scented kerosene (long story) on the cargo area carpet once, tried to spot-treat, took it out, pressure washed it, vacuumed it dry... and a year later it still smells. Oh well, better than cigarette smoke, anyway.

You can burn steel wool with a 9v battery. Anything that'll combine with oxygen will burn, given the right conditions. The purpose of torching a drain plug isn't to burn it, anyway, it's an attempt to break up the corrosion holding it in.