Slartibartfast

Your best bet is the '90 manual. Free download from cardiagn.com last time I checked, or message me if you can't find it and I'll get you a link. The '94/'95 manual from Nicoclub should be close, but it's for the round-dash trucks, and there are some minor changes on those that can hang you up. The EF&EC section has a walkthrough for troubleshooting each code. I'd start with the ignition signal, injector circuit (that'll be the misfire), and MAF codes, and see if the knock sensor code goes away on its own once those three are resolved (clear the codes and see if it comes back). If the engine has no idea how much air is coming in, one cylinder isn't firing, and the timing is messed up, it may well be knocking, and annoyingly these don't have separate codes for a bad knock sensor vs actual knocking. I would also look for any obvious rodent damage. An injector circuit code could be due to a chewed wire, and my '93 had a MAF code when a rat's nest in the air filter got sucked into the MAF.

I looked up the front U joints for an '02 on Nissanpartsdeal and found part number 37126-01G26 for the front prop shaft U joint (still available, but not cheap). They're listed for '96-'04, so there shouldn't be any mid-year-change confusion going on with the joints. Did the shop say what prevents the joints they've tried from fitting? If they just can't get the snap rings in, there's this whole thing in the R50 service manual about using color-coded snap rings of varying thicknesses to set the end-play in the joint. If the snap rings are too thin, the joint will have excessive play--if they're too thick, they may not go in at all. (PD section of the service manual, free download from Nicoclub.) Unfortunately the part numbers the manual gives for the special snap rings come back as both discontinued and for a WD21 (first gen Pathy), so that's bizarre/unhelpful. But, yeah, if the snap rings are the problem, and they can source thinner ones, that might be just what it needs. If that's not it, or they can't find thinner snap rings in that size, I would look for a used shaft from a wrecker. Even if the joints are bad, maybe you'll get lucky and find that the aftermarket joints fit the new-to-you shaft better than they fit your existing one. That said, I have heard of others having vibration issues after replacing front U joints (possibly due to the situation with the snap rings), so if you find a good used assembly, I would just slap it in there and be done with it.

That's gonna need some welding. Dbot had similar rust on his, and was planning to rebuild it, but it doesn't look like there's gonna be an update on that one sadly. There was more of his left, though, so his pictures may give you a better idea of what it's supposed to look like--and his measurements are a good example for what you'll need to do to make sure it goes back together afterwards. Take a bunch of measurements and make cardboard templates before cutting into it. Both will be good to have when you've got a bunch of rot cut out (there's always more than you think there is) and you realize you're building something important, from scratch, in empty space, and if it's not in the right place, other things won't fit right. The layered construction will make it a bit annoying, but at least the thinner metal's easier to bend. Rebuild with fresh steel of the same thickness as the original (measured where it's not rotten). Looks like you'll need a new bolt as well, and it would be a good time to do the bushings in the panhard rod if they need it.

You shouldn't need to pull the covers to do the belt, unless you're doing a cam swap or something. The timing's all outboard.

It wasn't my idea to make three flavors of cross-head that look identical but aren't! Given they're not seized and the torque spec is low, standard Phillips should do just fine regardless. I'm sure that's what I used when I did mine. I'd expect that rubber to squish out a bit when you tighten the screw. Even if it doesn't fill the cup entirely, the cup should still be spreading the load about the same.

Sorry to hear, and sorry to his family. I was just looking for this thread to see how the rust work was going.

I hadn't thought about it, but yeah, makes sense they used the Phillips (probably JIS actually) screw heads to prevent overtightening/warping the valve cover.

Looks like it's just squished a little by those tabs. The top picture looks like the gasket's got a clean/flat spot all through those areas, suggesting that it was making good enough contact with the head. And yeah, IIRC the gaskets I used were pretty soft anyway. Is the gasket cracked in the first pic, near the PCV nipple? Otherwise, it doesn't look that bad.

I put a link in the comparison thread to the video I made several years go when I installed mine, in my driveway, with mostly the wrong tools. If that idiot can do it, you can too You'll need an M6 Allen socket and a pair of snap ring pliers, and I think that's pretty much it. The hard part was getting the bolts out, and if yours have been out recently, then they shouldn't be anywhere near as difficult as mine were. The auto hubs were a neat idea, but even when they worked, they were more trouble than they were worth IMO.

When I had the intake off my VG30, I did the plugs, cleaned up the casting around the plug holes so dirt/water could escape more easily (the drains into the valley were mostly blocked by casting flash, so there was a lot of junk packed in around the plugs), did the valve cover gaskets, and cleaned out some rodent mess. Look for rodent damage or anything else obviously scabby with the injector harness. Inspect anything rubber that you have to mess with--I don't remember finding much wrong, but your climate may be harder on rubber than mine. Look for cracks, look for coolant residue. If the vacuum lines to the EGR and FPR are original, go ahead and replace those while you're in there. Might be a good time to replace the rubber line between the two fuel rails, or at least check the clamps. Make sure you mark where the distributor was before you pull it out. If you pull the lower intake, make sure you get the right gaskets. The VG33 lower intake gaskets are thin and made from stamped steel. Make sure you don't get the VG30 gaskets that are thicker steel with rubber seals. (If you get the wrong ones, nothing will line up. I made the opposite mistake and got to take it all apart again.) While the lower intake was off, I relocated the knock sensor to the back of one of the heads. I'm not sure if this was a good idea, but I didn't want to have to dig back down to it if it acted up later. Make sure you bleed the coolant properly afterwards. Should be a marked bleeder bolt on the intake. I did my timing belt at the same time--but that's the front of the engine, not the top, and having the top apart didn't make it easier. If anything it just made for a larger jigsaw puzzle.

Sounds like the hubs to me. Backing up is supposed to disengage them, driving forward in 4x is supposed to engage them. Sounds like one of them isn't disengaging all the way. The CV axle installation may be related, if the shop put the hubs back together wrong, or if they attempted to service them while they were apart. I made that mistake on my '95, hoping that a wipe-down and some fresh grease would make my worn-out hubs a little more reliable. My attempted half-ass rebuild turned an unreliable hub into an outright malevolent one that randomly tried to engage while I was driving and made me think the wheel was about to fall off from the godawful noise it made. What I did, and what I recommend, is to chuck the auto hubs in the bin where they belong and replace them with manual hubs. Hawairish started a comparison thread for the various manual options. While you're in there, check your wheel bearings (play, smoothness) and brakes. Most of your symptoms match the hubs, but I don't remember mine feeling bound up when the hubs were playing games. Your gearbox oils shouldn't have anything to do with this. That said, if the rear end has LSD, did you use the additive for it? Without it, the clutches in the diff can bind and chatter when you turn, though from what I've read the synthetic oil may be nerfing them anyway.

From what I've read, no, it should be a simple plug-and-play. Limp mode puts it in third IIRC. Does the light in the E-AT switch flash when you start the truck? Check your transmission fluid level when the transmission is warm. Too high or too low can both make a slushbox act weird, and they're easy to overfill. I filled mine to what seemed about right when it was cold and had to drain about a quart once it warmed up to get the level correct on the dipstick.

I looked up some part numbers on nissanpartsdeal to see what was up with this. The short version is I don't see why they wouldn't fit. I've heard of people doing dash and interior swaps, and I don't remember anyone complaining that the seat belts didn't bolt up afterwards. If you want to be sure, you could pick up a few grey belt parts from a wrecker or a part-out to confirm that they mount up the same before you shell out for fresh ones. I swapped '95 seat belts into my '93, but they were the same parts, just cleaner (PO was a smoker). For the most part, they're not that tough to work with, but be careful with the belt guide clips halfway up the B pillars. Gotta ease those out gently. And take a picture of the rear belts before taking them out, so you don't mix up the three in the middle. The long version: I looked up the same part (left-hand front belt buckle, color code K) for '87, '90, '93, and '95, and found three part numbers. '87 is 86843-03G60. '90 is 86843-12G60, but the listing suggests that the 12G60 replaces the 03G60, suggesting it's just a minor design change from the original. '95 pulled up 86843-61G00, which for some reason isn't listed as a replacement for 12G60. '93 pulled up 12G60 and 61G00, because transition year, but searching with my VIN pulled up 61G00 only. NPD has an actual photo (for a change!) of 12G60. I compared it to my grey 61G00, and so far as I can compare a low-res picture on a laptop screen to a scuffed-up original IRL and determine which one is which shade of grey, I'm like 90% sure the 12G60 is in fact the brown one. I don't think they changed the part number just for the color, though, because the blue and red buckles also have early and late variants listed for '93. So, yeah, as is often the case with part numbers... something changed around '92/'93. Give it a shot, let us know if it works!

Mine were hard and brittle when I took the covers off, and that was mid '10s IIRC. If yours are original, then yeah, I'll bet they're dribbling like an excited puppy.

I had a look at the manuals. Not sure if yours is VG or VQ, but the diagram is on EL-37 in either manual, and looks about the same. They sure crammed a lot of crap into that circuit, and amusingly, power to the bulbs still isn't properly relayed. It's just the WD21 wiring, but backwards, with a battery saver module riding it piggyback. The relays are how the battery saver control unit turns the headlights off if you leave them on for too long with the ignition off. Battery positive goes through two fuses to the two headlight relays. These relays are controlled by the headlamp battery saver control unit. That unit controls both relays together (single trigger wire that Ts off to the two relays). When the relays are engaged, they supply + to the common pin on each headlamp. The high/low filaments in the bulbs are grounded individually through the headlight switch. I'm ruling out the module, because it can't turn on one relay but not the other (if that was bad, it would take out both sides at once). If the switch was bad, I'd expect it to drop one filament at a time, like the WD21 headlight switches do. But each fuse and relay does one headlight, so one bad fuse or relay would take out high/low on that one headlight. Just like with the headlight bulbs, I'd check for any obvious heat/corrosion on the components and the fusebox, and maybe give them a wiggle to see if the light flickers. If it all looks good, you could try swapping them side to side to see if the issue follows the relay. If you're lucky enough to catch it while it's acting up, you could tap the relays to see if that brings it back on, or test for 12v+ at the common pin at the bulb to verify that the problem is on the + side.

I've found that my mityvac pulls air in around the bleeder threads. I'm never sure where the bubbles are coming from. I hate bleeding brakes. Sounds like you're on the right track, though!

Turn the crank until #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke (balancer lines up and both valves on #1 are closed--if you only check the balancer then you have a 50% chance of getting bottom dead on the exhaust stroke instead), point the rotor towards where the #1 plug wire goes on the cap, and stick it in there. Fire up and time it to 15 degrees +/- 2 (you'll need a timing light), then check it again once it's warmed up. If you can't turn it enough to get the timing where you want it, you'll need to pull it back out, turn the rotor one tooth the other way, and put it back. The service manual explains the marks and the timing specs. Cardiagn.com has a '90 manual, which will be correct for more of your truck than the '94/95 on Nico--but it looks like the '90 doesn't show the timing marks, and the '95 does. EF&EC-25 in the '95. The good news is that the dizzy does not drive the oil pump on these, so there's no sticking a screwdriver down the hole trying to get a pump drive spun to just the right spot to where the dizzy shaft will engage with it.

Did too! Borg on the left, old busted donut on the right.

Well, it's too late for Frenchy's truck, but I figured I'd update this in case anyone else is looking to replace their rag joint/coupler. I've got the Borgeson 000941 mounted to the coupler from my parts car, and it looks like it'll work with minimal bodging. It doesn't come with the bolt hole inserts that are in the stock donut. Those inserts will fit, but the Borgeson is a little thinner than the stock donut, so they're a little too long. I considered modifying the inserts, but then remembered that I don't own a lathe, and instead bought some M12 washers that'll fit over them. The inserts are 3mm too long, and the washers are 2mm thick, so one washer on either side should clamp the rubber nicely without damaging it. I'll update when I have it installed. I've got the box pulled from the parts car. Hoping to get around to that project in the next week or three.

Yeah, intermittent issues can be a real PITA to track down. I had a weak connection in the headlight plug cause a similar fault on mine. I just tweaked the contacts in the plug and it came back around. Hasn't acted up since. Wiggle the plug when the lights are on and see if the bulb flickers. The plug on mine wasn't burned, but that's another thing to check for. Loose or corroded connections can make a lot of heat.

Hopefully it's just the motor. Remove the plastic cover inside of the rear hatch, unplug the motor, and see if the wiper switch still pops the fuse. If it doesn't, then it's probably the motor, though I would test the motor before replacing it on the off chance unplugging it just broke the circuit to some other faulty component. If the fuse pops without the motor, or the motor tests good, you'll have to do some digging. EL-69 of the '90 manual (free download from cardiagn.com) shows the whole circuit. EL-90 has component locations, EL-93 and up should help you find the relevant connectors. By disconnecting those, you can narrow down where the problem is. If the fuse doesn't pop anymore with 13B disconnected, then you know the problem is in the hatch. If it still pops with 297M disconnected, you know the problem is between 297M and the dashboard. You could unplug the amp and/or relay. IIRC they're behind the lower trim, left of the rear cargo area. If unplugging one saves the fuse, either that component or something downstream is bad. This approach should narrow stuff down so you're not screwing around chasing wires at the wrong end of the truck. If you can't be arsed to do all that, or your troubleshooting leads you to the rear hatch harness, check the wiring between the body and the hatch. That's the only place in the circuit where wires have to flex, so that's where I would expect the wiring to fall apart first.

I'll bet you could just push the clutch pedal down a little (stick against the seat, adjustable tripod, something like that) so the master can't drain, then take it apart and separate the washer from the banjo on the bench.

That hole is where the cylinder head temp sensor would go if your truck had the 1987-89 throttle body injection. Your '93 is multi-port injected, so the temp sensor is in the neck that goes in the upper rad hose instead. I went and looked at my '93 to confirm. Same hole, no plug, no sensor. Yours is much cleaner, though!

At least you know you won't have to do the master again for a while! Hopefully the slave doesn't fight as hard.

Did you have them test the new alternator? If the problem is the ripple from the alt getting worse under load and confusing the computer or something, then it should run without stalling if you disconnect the alternator. If it behaves the same whether the alt is connected or not, then it's not the alt. Does the stalling happen from too many electrical loads, or just from these loads in particular? Will headlights + defroster do the same thing as headlights + blower? My first thought was that you've got a weak connection somewhere that's dropping voltage under load. I looked up the wiring for the headlights, blower motor, wiper motor, and engine computer to see what they had in common, and the answer is not much. The blower and wiper do share the same fuse and ground points, but the headlights and computer/sensors do not. If the starter's still working, that rules out loose battery terminals. If the connection where the negative battery terminal bolts to the fender is compromised, that would bottleneck everything in the body harness, without impacting the starter. It's a long shot, but if you run out of things to check, make sure that connection is clean and tight. Annoyingly, the FSM doesn't spec an idle speed in gear. 750 +/-50 in neutral, 700 if the TPS is unplugged. 800+ if the aircon is on. I don't remember offhand what the warm idle in gear is on my WD21, but 600-625 sounds about right.