Slartibartfast

How and where did you check for the draw? It's clearly got one somewhere.

I believe N60 is Maxima, like R50 is your year Pathfinder. My understanding is that it will not work the same as the stock one, so the computer has to be swapped/modified to work with it. Kinda doubt it would be worth the trouble on a stock motor.

Clearly the injectors aren't putting fuel in. The likelihood of two new injectors being DOA is fairly low, so let's rule them out for the moment. Any chance you removed the fuel pump fuse to run the pressure out of the fuel system before doing the injector swap and forgot to put it back in?

Nope, the first-gen ECUs can be read by messing with a bit on the back and decoding the LED flashes. Here's the writeup: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/ I'd be surprised if it was the fuel pump. Might try replacing the fuel filter, though, they're cheap and easy to get at, and a clogged one will give you all kinds of weirdness.

LOL not so much.

Any codes/CEL? Otherwise I'd start by checking the MAF sensor and the vacuum lines.

That depends on the origin story of the zombies and how ambitious the makeup department is. The Max Brooks zombies (guy who wrote World War Z) go through some kind of viral re-working, leaving them with no circulatory system to bleed out and flesh that's toxic enough to repel almost anything, and so holds up indefinitely; loss of muscle would still mean loss of motion, though. The ones in Zombieland seem to retain human physiology, just with some kind of brain disease, so a wound that would expose bone would probably cause enough bleeding or infection to kill them off, or at least hobble them so they starve. The same goes for the 28 Days Later and Shawn of the Dead zombies as well. If the origin story involves ancient curses or some such crap (Pirates of the Caribbean), then walking skeletons are possible. I'm not a comic book guy either, just spent way too much time watching zombie movies (and writing zombie fiction involving my friends). There are some weird ones out there. I'm not sure how Peter Jackson got the job on Lord of the Rings after doing Dead Alive. That lawnmower scene...

Saw this a while back, looks like the guy made Subaru injectors work: Might be something good in there.

An auto trans doesn't have one big clutch, it's got a bunch of little ones inside (part of what's replaced during a rebuild). They're wet clutches, so I imagine any burning smell would've been absorbed by the fluid. You could have it rebuilt, but check prices on good used ones first; if you can find one from an 01+ Pathy or Xterra (not really sure of the year range) they're supposed to last longer and bolt right up. When you swap the trans out, make sure you get all the old fluid and bits of dead trans out of the cooler lines and the cooler itself. If you're still running the little cooler in the radiator, probably best to ditch that for an aftermarket cooler (especially for towing).

I'm not sure the owner of that Blazer understands the concept of camo.

There is a rail shifter available for these ( ). Arduino sounds like fun, though. If you wanted you could probably ditch the factory TCU altogether and program the Arduino to do its job... alter shift points however you want to for when you want it in auto mode. I saw a vid on Youtube a while back where a guy had three house light switches screwed to the dash of his Chevy. One was TC lockup, the other was solenoid A, the other was solenoid B. He shifted by turning the switches on and off. Seemed to work!

Let me know when you get the flamethrower working!

Make the front bumper actually protect the radiator. Dual batteries just in case. Add a flamethrower to the front end just in case someone tries to carjack me, and a heavy something under the back on a quick release in case someone in another vehicle tries to chase me down. A tank trap sort of thing that would spring open and lock wouldn't be that tough to weld up. Maybe a fuel cell in the back that dumps into the main tank as a reserve. Maybe get around to lifting the front end a little. A CB and a better air compressor would probably be helpful as well. Some kind of electric water pump and reservoir would be quite helpful as well... drive down to the river, fill the tank, drive it back to the house, pump it back out to irrigate vegetables, put out fires, or just fill the toilet tanks. A winch could be a helpful as well. Other than that, keep it looking as stock as possible so it's not eye-catching. Bars on the windows aren't a bad idea, but I hear it's quite difficult to break a car window, and the "look at me I probably have supplies" factor might not be worth it. If things get bad enough to need more protection, remove the sunroof, beat a piece of steel into a sunroof shape, cut a hole through it on the passenger's side, weld a lazy susan bearing to it, and make a turret on top of that for the passenger to shoot from. The bottom of a propane tank armored with steel plate should do the trick. Bring a tool kit, assortment of weapons (blades don't need reloading), water and food hidden in the quarter panels behind the cargo area trim, spare fluids, and maybe a bicycle in case something goes horribly awry (beats running). Avoid population centers for a few weeks until the mobs die down, then head in for canned goods and precious juice. Mad Max getup optional.

That is a topic I've actually put a little too much thought into.

Gotta host elsewhere, I use Photobucket. Looking forward to more on your build, that's pretty quick for a WD21!

I remember my dad complaining about the brights on his '03 being kinda crap. The '03 FSM shows factory headlight relays, though, so there's not much point in relaying what's already been relayed. I assume the early R50s are wired the same as the late R50s.

Yep, footwell light, comes on with the dome light on mine.

I tore down one of my mirrors after removing it, but as it was already broken, I wasn't terribly careful with disassembly. I seem to remember prying the glass out (didn't break it though). I'm not sure it was the exact same unit as yours--IIRC the pivot didn't give until I had the mechanism out and tore the little clippy thing out that held the pivot down. I did save the mechanism, because it seemed like it might be useful for something, and here's what it looks like: I suspect I pried the glass and heater element off of the black plastic, away from the white greasy glue stuff that held it on, then undid the screw in the middle of the black plastic bit. That releases the center pivot point for the black plastic bit, leaving only the two screwy bits holding it to the power unit. They have ball ends and you can push them out from the front of the black piece (there are two little slots that you can jam a screwdriver through, hot glued over on mine for some reason). With that off, it looks like you should just have four screws holding the white plastic gearbox in, and then the wires to deal with (I cut the black plastic to free them, probably because I couldn't get the pivot apart/didn't intend to put it back together). One of the plastic screw-with-a-ball-end bits on mine had broken off right at the ball, so be careful with those bits, they could be a little fragile. Probably best to disassemble the one that doesn't work first. Good luck! Edit: looks like there are a few different styles of these!

That would explain it! Thanks for that, I'll sleep easier.

Good to hear you got it! Odd that the lights worked when you jumped the switch, with a bad + side.

I have not heard of a Pathfinder injector failing due to use with ethanol gas.

Jerking to the right suggests the brake pressure is uneven between the right and left sides. It does sound like a dragging brake. Maybe there's something wrong in the hard line? Someone who knows more about brakes should chime in here.

+1, sounds like the auto hubs crapping out. Mine did the same thing after I made the mistake of cleaning/regreasing one of them. I can only assume the black sticky grease that was in there was the only thing making the worn-out clutch bits work. My fix was a set of manual hubs. Sure gets your attention when one pops half out and starts clattering!

This is a weird one. The test was with the switch you cleaned, right? Sounds like the switch contacts aren't adjusted right. It took me a couple tries to get mine so they touched when they were supposed to and not otherwise after cleaning them out. Cycling the switch with the back off and watching the contacts moving around helped. I think I ended up plugging it in with the back off, messing with the contacts to figure out which did what, and then fiddling with them until both sides high/low worked properly. Or just put the new switch in and test again. Even with the misadjustment, it seems like something should be coming on, even if it's not what's supposed to. I suppose it's possible that it's trying to power more filaments than it has the current capability to do, but it seems like that'd be blowing fuses, and it sounds like the driver's low beam should work then anyway. I'm also wondering if you used a cleaner that left some kind of residue on the contacts, but that seems like a long shot. It also seems like the new switch should've fixed it either way! How did this issue start? Might shed some light on it.