RF600

Like others have said you have to read what is and what is not covered. They might cover some internal items, but if you have a seal leaking that would be considered external, so that might no be covered. That was an example. If you can turn a wrench then I would say you can probably go without. Another think to think about. Some external warranties only pay so much per hour for labor. They might pay $50 an hour. The shop doing the work might be $80 per hour. You would have to make up the difference.

No thread sealant. The ends look like AN. The hose is rubber but I think it is like hydraulic hose. I put a heat shield around it because it is close to the exh manifold.

Added a ground to the maf connector. So far it's not wanting to die on me when I come to a stop. It acts like a iac valve was going out. Already replaced that.

I had my local Napa make the lines for me. I'm using 45* fittings on the adapter end. Straight on the end of the line.

This is gonna sound weird. I was having a similar issue. Would want to die when at a stop sign, not all the time though. Anyway I was reading through some older threads about this issue. A couple people had somehow figured out that the maf was dropping its ground at times. Their fix was to add a ground wire to the maf connector. After I put the extra ground in I am having no issues. Worth a try.

I thought it was fixed. Still having the same problem. I'm just dealing with it for the time being. One of these months when other things stop using my extra money I will attempt to deal with it. I'm leaning toward the distributor.

California gas will get you 2-3 mpg less.

I pulled the starter because it would not engage. That was my first indication the starter was going bad. Now it is doing the same thing. Hitting the starter will get it to engage. So when you think you got it, you sometimes don't.

95 SE Red

I would still pull it apart and check the races and bearings. If there is any scarring on the races or bearings, you may have problems in the future. Bearings wear in a pattern. If the pattern varies, the bearings could wear faster than normal. I'm not trying to scare you.

About a month ago I did the timing belt. When I was putting the skid plate back on I noticed the outer cv boots were torn. Got things apart and the lower ball joints were bad. So New shafts and ball joints. Alignment done and hopefully I am done for a while.

I had a chance to drive the Pathfinder and the cruise works. Even the resume. So I will have to do like others have done and "extend" the buttons.

I pulled the steering wheel off and the 3 contacts were not making contact to the wheel.. I loosened up the clamp that holds the switch and there was a little up and back play. I pulled it forward and tightened the clamp back down. I have not had a chance to drive it yet and see if the cruise works. All 3 contacts are touching the steering wheel now.

Sweet

I have to put outer boots on the front axles so I will take a look at that also. Hopefully this weekend I can get to it. I do miss having cruise control.

That has to piss off the tire shops.

I had some free time and pulled the connectors out of the housing for the coolant temp sensor. One of the connectors was still corroded from my feeble attempt to clean them up the first time. I cleaned them up and put some dielectric grease on them and put it back together. I have tried to make it stumble and it has not acted up. It is weird that is what was causing the problem. At least it is fixed now. Thanks for the input from everyone.

Thanks Slartibartfast for doing that for me. That means I can rule out the pump. Well I guess it is time for more trouble shooting. Gotta love it. I did pull the cruise switches off at one point and clean them up. That didn't help.

It was definitely worth the time and money to relocate the oil filter. I wish I would have taken a pic of the starter after I took it apart. It was nasty.

The horn works fine. I pulled the pump apart as far as I could. There is a diaphragm that I can't get to unless I break the housing. Would anyone be willing to check their pump for me? Pull the hose off of the actuator pod and blow through it. I have not seen any pathfinders at the yards in town. I know there are some in the next town but that is ~30 minutes away. I don't want to waste the gas unless I have to.

I'm pretty sure my horn works. The last time I used it was a while back. I will probably open the pump up and have a look. Doesn't look like there would be much to it.

The hose is good between the pump and actuator. I can blow into the hose and hear it coming out of the pump. I would think being a pump it shouldn't be like that? Bad diaphram in the pump?

I have a 95 Pathfinder with a m/t. I am doing the checks like the manual says. I jump all 4 wires and the cruse wire pulls. Next the manual says the cruse wire should return back in 50-60 seconds. Mine goes back immediately. So I think that the actuator pump is bad because it doesn't hold. Is that correct? I put vac to the actuator ( the pod with the diaphram) and it will pull the wire and hold. The switch will illuminate. I checked the other switches and everything is good. The cruse did work off and on before.

I can't find my receipt so I don't know for sure. I think it was a hayden kit. The lines are custom made. I put the heat sleeves on just in case. The hoses were the most expensive part. I think the filter is off of a ford. I took some metal I had and made the mounting bracket.

After the first couple oil changes I put a remote filter on. It's a larger filter also. I used mounting points that were existing. No extra holes drilled. The fuel filter is a little more difficult to get off but not too bad.