wd21overland

The bolts don't need to be replaced but it's always good to have them in case they break upon removal like mine did lol. There are 2 different lengths so here you go. Frame side bolt is M14 X 1.5 X 3.5" long. Axle side bolt M14 X 1.5 X3.75" long. Make sure to get grade 8 instead of 5 since its a pretty important bolt lol.

You said you check engine light came on when the speedo quit working. A quick thing you can do is check the ecu to see what trouble code you have and go from there. here is a link http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 I'm willing to bet that the code will be (Code 14 Vehicle Speed Sensor) mine did the exact same thing a few months ago very easy to replace but also before you get one check to see if it is a loose connection.

Just check the shipping company i used and to get it from arizona to new hampshire for example runs $495

I know its probally not what your wanting to do but i also wanted a completley rust free pathfinder and there none around here in nebraska due to the salt so i just looked at ads in arizona, new mexico , texas etc I found mine for $1600 in arizona and it cost me $400 to have a shipping company deliver it to my house so i know its a strecth for you but if you find a decent price one you can get it shipped and still be under your $2500 amount easily.

I've looked into moving the tire closer to the drivers side but with my 33" spare on there i cant even move it over about a inch or it hits the swing bar the unlocks the carrier so you wouldnt be able to open the the carrier. If you have stock tires it might be different for you so might work. I just ended up buying the jerry and water holders that utilize the spare lugnuts i have 2 gas and 1 water right now. Here is the website for them. http://www.expeditiononestore.com/Expedition-One-Geri-Water-Packs-Geri-Water-Pack.htm

Yep there 21.1 gallons unless you have the 4 cyclinder i had to drain the tank in mine before to fix a hole and took right at 21 to fill it up. Easy way for me to tell is to just look in my factory owners manual under capacities where it says with VG30E 21.1 fuel capacity.

Sadly it is pretty common mine does the same when its just above e i have about 5 gallons left in the tank because if i fill it up i can get right at 16 gallons in. The fuel low level light comes on right at about 2 gallon left for me. I drove around with it on E one day till the light cam on finally and took about 18.9 gallons to fill it up that time. I just did the light once to truly see if it would work and to see when it would kick on. 99% of the time its the fuel gauge sensor in the tank. If you have ever taken one out you'll see the senor and on the side there is a strip of metal and the sensor needle the metal wears away after time and it loses contact. www.courtseyparts.com has the illustration on it sadly you have to get the whole unit. http://www.courtesyparts.com/25060-gauge-assy-unitfuel-tank-pathfinder-wd21-08/1989-07/1992-vg30e-06/1988-08/1989-vg30i-p-540052.html?cPath=5572_5573_5590_5595& Now depending on your year there is a massive price difference. For 88-92 its $210 For 93 only its $157 For 94-54 is $137 no clue whats the difference is but there you go.

Nissan rust proofed there vehicles but only to the standards of the year it was made just like most late 80's and early 90's vehicles most have rust some where heck even most vehicles that are only a few years old around here are rusting thats why i bought my pathfinder from arizona and drove it back home so i would have a totally rust free pathy. But back to your question what part of your pathfinder is rusted? Luckly there are alot of companies that sell new body and frame parts to get your pathfinder back in shape. Is your frame rusted through in the back? Are the rocker panel rotted out? Just tell us what part is rusted to give you some ideas.

I just have a simple setup also Kenwood stereo and speakers. I can't stand having subs or loud bass since it just takes space that i use to carry spare parts when i go out on the trail or go camping with the family.

Ok went to there website to find it. Here is what they say. When adding Sea Foam® to oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it.

Yeah it says you can leave it in there for extended time but then 2 lines down on the bottle it says if you plan to leave it in there change the oil as soon as it gets dirty LOL. Which won't take long at all so there covering there butts with that phrase so no one can sue. I've done it before but will never leave in very long.

When i had my 32's on with a rough country front suspension lift and jeep coils in that back i didn't have to do anything with the rear bumps stops i had maybe 1/4 between the tire and the inner fender well. Also with the new control arm and ultra low profile bumps stops i have pretty decent down travel about 3" which isnt bad and that with them cranked some. Remember if you re index your torsion bars your spring rate will still be the same its already been dicussed many times before the only thing reindexing the bar does is allow you to crank it up higher due to the bar sagging.( For example when i got my truck i could crank the driver side bar all the way up until the anchor was as high as it can go and i still would have 2" plus clearance from the bump stop to control arm unlike the passenger side which i only had to crank it a few turn to get the same amount and could easily crank it until the control arm was up against the bump stop so i had to reindex the drivers side bar 3 splines to even out the bars lift. And here is the info about reindexing your bars http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038&st=40 Also before you buy your tires think about how long it will be before you put your body lift on so you don't make the mistake i did and buy a nice set of new tires only to put a body lift on 3 months later and now have the look of really tiny tires and the need/want to get bigger lol. At least with me i just gave the tires to my father in law since they had like 4k miles on them I will try to find a better pic of the rear tire stuffed.

Normally when i see that issue come into the shop it will sputter around that rpm range but then has no power after 3000 where yours is fine. The 2 things i would check are your Fuel pressure and the catalytic convertor. But normally with those things you will have reduced power after 3k which is having me at a loss. But after checking the service manual i think you should take a look at your ignition timing with a timing light, if the timing is retarded a few degrees it can causing stumbling at mid range rpm..

I agree with him it's very possible its a vaccum leak or a IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve) that needs to be cleaned or replaced. For the vaccum lines check the ones around the throttle body and Evap Canister(right beside the washer bottle) for visual leaks and also if you have a can of carb cleaner ( Starter Fluid will also work great and evaporate quick) laying around you can lightly spray the hoses while running along with the intake boot and if the engine idle goes up for a sec because of it sucking in the carb cleaner you can locate your leak easier. Also take a look at the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line its all way at the back of the intake next to the fire wall. Mine idled like your did awhile back and i went to change the number 6 spark plug and found the hose broken back there. As for the IAC just remove and clean the carbon out of it.

Have you checked the ECU for any codes yet? Also what you have sounds like limp mode. If the transmission stays in second and wont up shift into 3 and 4th thats the diagnoses of limp mode in the manual. I would first check the codes to see if you have anything and also do you know if you tranny cooler was froze up? Mine acted the same way during a heavy snow/ice storm the cooler was cramped full of ice and snow on it causing the tranny to not want to shift.

I just bought brand new hoses that were extended length but i wanted a good fit so there were a PITA to install. A hard line would be a good idea since there low pressure lines.

SO i can get an idea of what part are your talking about. Is it the rear Drive shaft rubbing the cross member. I have heard of this happening but it would require that you have alot of travel in the rear. I have a 3" in the rear with 26" extended length shock compared to the stock 23" shock and no rear swat bar and even on the lift and full droop extension my drive shaft is not touching. Here is a post that talks about nothcing the cross member so it doesnt touch but he has this issue with 6" of lift in the rear. http://nissannut.com/projects/SAS_3link/ As for the PanHard rod Mine has never rubbed the shock since i have owned it and that with 3" body bilsteins and when i did my 3" lift i used a Calmini panhard drop bracket and no rubbing with it either.

I just tilted my seat back foward then slided the seat foward and opened the rear door and i had perfect access to the ecu removing the seat is a waste of time no reason.

Typically a rotten egg smell is too much fuel or a bad cat causing the catalytic converter to send a lot of sulfer smell out of the exhaust. But you said you smelled it inside so it could be electrical but i don't think i have ever heard anyone talk about that smell inside the cabin at least in the wd21 world. Now you could have an exhaust leak causing the smell going into the cab either by rust on the floor board(Not very common) or the transfercase rubber boot seems they always rip after time and it under the leather cover so you never see it and they allow exahust fumes to come up.

Oddly enough there is one in town for sell on craigslist. It says complete kit with ssv shocks. It also said its ever been installed before and from the pics it does look brand new but kind of odd that it was never installed since i think they quit making it a few years ago but i guess it can happen. He is asking $450 usd for it which is great but the shipping might be the fun part lol.

Also i don't know if you have done this yet but have you check your ecu for codes since the pathy doesn't use a dummy light you have to check your error codes at the ecu. You can use it to check your air/fuel mixture, O2 sensor and MAF sensor along with codes. Here is the procedure. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

It's not the voltage causing you to stumble both of my pathfinders my 92 and 95 both stay around 12.5v at idle when the heater is on full and headlights on and they idle perfect and have never stumble 12.8v is fine. I went outside real quick to verify what you did and with everything on its right at 12.5 to 12.6v so that not causing your stumble. The factory service manual shows that voltage is perfectly with in factory limits.

Very true it seems out of all the vehicles i've owned my pathy will start blowing warm air before i get a few block away lol heck even my wifes 06 pathy takes much longer then my 92 lol. Worst was her 04 neon it was just getting warm when i got to work so was useless most of the time lol and that only had 34k miles on it so doubtful anything was wrong with it to cause it to take so long.

Just wondering what everyone thoughts about the 2012 nissan pathfinder. There going away from the truck frame again and it will now be based off of the nissan maxima car chassis. I was happy when it they went back to a frame again but sad to see it go back looks like xterra will be the last surving truck frame suv in there line up. Here is the motortrend article on it. http://www.motortrend.com/auto_shows/detroit/2012/1112_2012_detroit_2013_nissan_pathfinder/