wd21overland

When mine is on E i have 2 gallons left and when my gas light comes on i have 1 gallon left.

Thank you so much for clearing that up. I'm having him sent me a box of 20 since there used in alot of the vehicles over there it seems so he can get them for about $1.35 each.

I'm about to order my 3" body lift from Ruggedrocks.com and i know i will need to adapt the kit to make it work form my year pathfinder. After reading through the forums i know i need to buy M12x1.25X180mm bolts to make the kit work. Just so i get this right i will need to buy 4 of those bolts right? 2 for the back and 2 for the middle. i have a friend stationed over seas in england and he said he can get me the bolts and ship them to me easily so just making sure before i have him ship me the bolts. Any help would great.

I know a lot of people go with Warn hubs but also look at Mile Marker Hubs. I've had mine for 4 years so far and have never had a single issue with them and they get used all the time. For the winter i also leave them lock so i can swap right into 4wd if needed. Once a year i take the hub off to inspect, clean and lube and that's about it. They run about $80 to $100 depending on where you go. Here's a link to one site. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/mile-marker-manual-locking-hubs-p-243.html

I took the wife's 94 se out to test and her's came with 31's factory and gps shows the speedo is 5% off so yours might be off but best bet is to check with gps or do the mile marker test.

Mines about 16mpg city and 19 highway. That's with 32's One important fact to remember is that once you increase your tire size your measuring gas mileage acuratly by the odometer goes out the window. A really fool proof way to check how acurate your odometer is, is to get on the highway and find where the mile markers are and stop right where one starts reset your trip and drive until you get to the next one and compare mileage. Factory i had 235/75R15 tires (29") and now have 265/75R16 tires (32") When i did the odometer check i got .8 miles on the trip for every 1 actual mile so 20% off So when my i check my gas mileage by the odometer i get 14mpg city adding the extra mileage from being 20% off you get 2.8 mpg so actual MPG is 16.8 city Example odometer shows 200 miles acutal adding 20% 240 miles divided by gallons to fill up. Sorry i love numbers lol and i try to help they people that think when they throw 33" tires on you pathy you mpg doesnt really go down my like 4mpg so they feel better lol.

Here are the links from energy suspension and rugged rock so either or. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=7.3102 or http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/energy-suspension-black-front-end-control-arm-bushing-set-1987-95-nissan-pathfinder-p-2379.html Those links are for the complete upper and lower control arms for the front. And these two links are for the strut rod bushings. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=7.7106 or http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/energy-suspension-red-front-strut-rod-bushing-set-nissan-pathfinder-1987-95-p-2384.html

Yes they make them for the lower control arm also but it will only come with 2 since the other part of the lower control arm is the strut rod so look for strut rod bushings also. But energy suspension sells a complete kit with upper, lower control arm in one package.

I just went on every auto store website you mentioned all of them sale them including napa and o'reilly. Here are the links to several sites that sale them for your pathfinder and your model year. Model year 87 thru 95 are all the same. If you have a autozone close by i also have a link down there for it also. http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-wd21-r50-bushings-c-38_488.html https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-pathfinder-front-bushings-c-435_377_349_741.html http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Energy-Suspension/Product-Line/Energy-Suspension-Rear-Control-Arm-Bushing-Sets/Make/NISSAN/Model/PATHFINDER/Year/1991/?Ns=Rank|Asc http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Nissan+Pathfinder+4WD+1991 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Energy-Suspension-Control-Arm-Bushing-Front/1992-Nissan-Datsun-Pathfinder-4WD/_/N-j55exZ8oy1l?counter=3&itemIdentifier=357410_271550_4222_

Also on a side note Ruggedrocksoffroad.com seems to be the fastest place to order them from for me at least might depend on where you live though.

Poly bushings are the easiest to find. I would start at energy suspension website. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/categories.asp?cat=Nissan+Pathfinder+4WD Or http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com or http://www.4x4parts.com/nissan or even my local parts store like autozone, napa and all them sell all the energy suspension lines of products.

I've decided to go with the 3" BL mainly do to the fact that i don't want do the whole i wish i gone bigger if i got the 2". I have already lengthed all my hoses 3"s minus the fuel filler so i can save some time once i get started so i should just have to extend the fuel filler lines, move the bumpers up and installed the spacers for the safety loops. I know the Factory directions aren't the best for installing the lift so is there anything else that needs to be extended or moved that i haven't done yet. Anything i can do now before the kit gets here would be a great time saver. I know something has to be done with the brake lines in the engine bay i think but cant remember.

My goal is to run 33"s and more clearance between the body and engine/tranny would come in handy then next time i need to hank the transmission out. 3" BL Sounds great since i do love the look of it being a bit higher just seeing what is the real difference between installing 1 or the other. I've read that the shifter can be left alone along with the fuel filler but if thats really all there is difference i might just go 3 but really want to see if the 3" stretches stuff a little to far that can cause issues offroad.

I've read through the forums and almost all online resources about how to install and 3" and 2" body lift on a pathfinder but just want some input from people that have installed either or. I know the 2" you have a couple things less you have to do vs the 3" but what exactly dont you have to do with 2". I will be doing this in the drive way at my house so ease of install would be a plus i have already removed all body bolts and reinstalled them along with the bumper bolts so that wont slow me down( due to a stuck bolt) and i have also removed the bottom fan shroud portion, installed a external tranny cooler with longer lines and power steering lines have already been replaced and extended so everything that has to be extended or removed for the body lift has already been done in preperation minus extending the fuel filler. The only thing holding me back is that i've read with the 3" you have to cut into the metal around the transfercase shifter in order to get into 4lo which i would prefer not to do since i just bought a new factory rubber shifter seal and dont wont to tear it up. SO just wanting some insight from people that have done either and what all was needed to be modified inorder to fit one or the other. The 3" body lift is cheaper oddly so that a plus just wanting to see the main problems with it.

There really should have been the champange color on this poll also lol. I have 3 pathy's all that color and 4 more close by me. Guess it was a popular color around here but really easy to find body parts that are color match at the junkyard.

I've read through the forums and have found a couple topics on ways to have cup holders in our pathfinders. I saw the one about the jeep ZJ center console install and might try that one but since i have a automatic i will have to customize it to fit more so then with a 5 speed. My question is has anyone tried to install a R50 center console in our pathy yet or at least tried but had issues. I plan to go to the junkyard this weekend and take a look at some vehicles that might work and hopefully do a write up on what center consoles can fit the pathy and with what mods.

Well to start out when you turn the switch on and off does it change anything in the transmission. Like does the rpm's go up when you switch it. I know when you press the brake pedal the torque converter disengages but so not sure if the wire is the fix a broken connection there or not.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28120 Here's the link of cv shaft install they were talking about. But for the info your asking unlike most vehicles where you just remove the caliper swap rotors and have a beer pathfinder are more fun. you will need to remove the whole front hub assembly in order to replace the rotor its not as bad as it sounds but will take some time. To start remove the hub cap where its auto or manual hubs, then remove the C clip holding the cv shaft in place, after the C clip is removed remove the remaining washer and clutch equipment depending on what you have. After that you will see 2 screws remove the 2 screw holding the bearings in place and gently slide the rotor and hub assembly off and unbolt the rotor and replace. Rinse and repeat for other side. I will add if you replacing the rotors now is a good time to also do your wheel bearing and seals but if there in could condition just remove them gently and reinstall.

Those will fit without a single problem the rims i currently have were for a toyota and they even have a better offset to allow for no rubbing.

I called them this morning to order it they said it doesn't have the logo on it anymore it just has a nice powder coated dark gray finish on it that they said is really tough to chipping and coming off. It does look nice in there pic of it and if i need to paint it down the road oh well easy to do. On a side note i did ask them if they planned on selling a oil pan / transmission skid plate they said there in the works and will look like the R50 skid plates they sell just modded for our wd21's which is great since i'm always worried about the oil pan since it hangs alittle lower then i would like.

Thank you very much 5523Pathfinder for the pics. And to answer the other question it will fit non lifted rigs also. I have the front plastic air deflector under my bumper off and i see now right where it would bolt up to so going to order one right now since it looks like some decent protection.

As the title states i would like to know if any has bought the front skid plate that 4x4parts sells for our wd21. Pics would be great if anybody has one. I'm just trying to see what it will look like since it says it also covers more for people with body lift so wonder how it mounts by doing that. I have the factory skid plate but i'm about to install a body lift so wonder if this will look better for it.