wd21overland

Ok so i got bored since i have a few jeep gc springs laying around i went outside to my parts pathfinder and installed some spare gc springs in the rear ( 2 minute process since it doesnt have a track bar or shocks on it. Before measurment was was 33.2 with worn 31's afterwards 36.5 so alittle above 3" through in about 200lbs of random junk to simulate having a spare on the back and rando gear went to 36.1. so alittle under 3 inches. Removed the springs and cut 1 coil off right down from where i cut the pig tail off so i can make sure i took the same amount off on both springs. reinstalled and now it sits 34.9 its 1.7 inches now in the rear about the closet you going to get to 1.5 lol. SO to wrap up i took junkyard jeep gc coil that i already cut the pig tail off and then just cut 1 coil down. about the best i could give you.

OK to start your pathy looks very clean guessing it was a southern car. You have the 3" bl so great start. For the uca's i would go with the superlift or rough country arms (there the exact arm minus the superlift gives them a zinc coating my rough country arm even have superlift stamped on them lol. You will have to call rough country in order to get the arms only they charged me $170 for the arms shipped to my door in 2 days. http://www.roughcountry.com/nissan_hardbody.html Ok for shocks i have bilsteins all around and i couldn't be happier i've had skyjacker nitro, Superlift , Rough country and rancho 5k shocks and there by far were the best money ever spent. Next you cant go wrong with a idler arm bracer some people prefer other braces but they all work the same and are around the same price. And last getting Jeep grand cherokee springs are the right idea make sure there the front ones and there from a v-8 93-98 model year. Now another way to go with springs is to get the front springs from a regular jeep cherokee that are for a 3" lift they will give you the same lift you want but are of a lower spring rate for better ride quality and are longer. In my area there are tons of jeeps so searching the local boards or craiglist can get you used 3" lift springs for cheap.

I'm replacing my tie rods next week and i'm also very interested in which tierods to use. Is it inner and outer and also do you use the stock adjusting sleeve or chevy.

OK i don't have a picture but none is needed. The factory pathfinder springs have a bar diameter of .554 and a uncompressed length of 15.3 inches. The Jeep 93 to 98 jeep ZJ with v-8 has a bar diameter of .578 and a uncompressed length of 17.2 inches. There was a 98 jeep zj that can be had with the 5.9 v-8 instead of the 5.2 and its front springs are .603 bar diameter and 17.8 inches long. I used the 5.9 v-8 springs and even with my 33 in spare and load up for camping i got right at 4" of lift. If you want more lift DON'T cut the pig tail there is no need just heat up the part that bends end and straightn it back to the normal way the coil is winding works great. I bought brand new Moog springs for a 98 5.9l jeep grand cherokee with the .603 bar diamter for only $81 for the pair and they have worked great for everything i have needed even with the trailer hooked up and towing a car no issues when loaded for normal trail use i get 4" of rear lift. Also the rear spring rate has caused no problem in ride but i do have full Bilstein shocks all around which make any terrain comfy. If i were that what i would do the price is hard to beat just make sure to not get the springs from the 4.0 I-6 jeep there are diameter is .531 and won't work at all.

Yeah the wiring harness is already setup for a/c so everything will plug in the wiring harness number he gave me is for a short connector so i'm sure it wont be a issue. Your best bet will be if you have donor vehicle with a/c which i'm sure you can find easy for a few hundred no engine or what not. And you could finish is pretty quick.

Yeah you will need a whole centerlink for that one i just got done replacing mine due to that exact joint going bad.

Ok i called the dealer ship and they said there was a value model made in 95 only that could be purchased but sold in extremly low numbers. He gave me the list of what you will need to convert it over to A/C 1. Control head with a/c 2. A/c relay and fuses. 3. Wiring harness 402745 - B 4. A/c Condensor 5. A/c High and low pressure lines. 6. A/c Dryer 7. A/c coils 8. complete new HVAC box for A/C ( if you had the heater only option the box is different and the coil will not fit inside. 9. New IAC valve (the one with a/c is different and will raise idle when a/c is turned on) 10. A/C compressor 11. Idler pulley with bracket. 12. Engine bracket for a/c Now i'm sure you will be getting alot from the junkyard but there is the list og what you need. He said if you bought it all new from the dealership it will run $3178.76 (WOW) After asking him for the list i think i will never buy a vehicle that doesn't have a/c.

Where was your pathfinder made? I have the brouchure for 92 , 94 and 95 and having a vehicle without A/C was not an option on pathfinders it shows standard on every model on the years listed above. If you had a Pathfinder they all came with Heat and A/C even the XE the only option was for Auto climate on the SE it shows. If you had a hardbody with short bed , 4 cyclinder and 5 speed manual they had a fleet package that didn't have a/c put that was it.

Yep make sure your at a complete stop when shifting into 4HI or 4LO. The owners manual says you can shift into 4HI when speeds are below 3 mph but i have tried before and its a 50% chance it will grind so i just come to a stop. Also mine doesn't do this but my friends does when going from 4hi to 4lo he has to move the shift quickly if he pauses for a second while doing going between the 2 it will just grind. Now when he goes to 4lo he just shuts the truck off shifts into 4lo and continues on so there no grinding.

As said above if its the one that connects the wheel to the center link via to tierod then yes. But if its the ones that are build into the center link that connect to the idler and pitman arm then no you will need to replace the entire center link.

If the Waterpump is new also i would say its a good indication. But unless it was done by the owner most shops will put down that they replaced the timing belt and month/year/mileage it was done either by a sticker or writing it on the timing cover. since the only other way to check is to removed the belts and idler pulley and remove the top cover to check.

OK so I got bored today and since there are A LOT of Headlight Problems coming up recently I wanted to make a complete write up on everything headlights. Ok to start the Factory headlight system is horrible in its design since it doesn’t incorporate a headlight relay, meaning all power from the headlights run from the headlight fuses through the tiny brass connecters in the headlight switch to the headlights which is far from ideal. Ok to start at the beginning the Power for the headlight first come from the battery. From there on the positive cable there is A black fusible link connector box. ( This send power to all electrical components minus the starter to check here when having random power issue the plastic is brittle from time and heat and in susceptible to damage.) Ok from there is 2 Fusible link connectors with 3 wires each. The Green connector is the one that has the power for the headlight light fuse the top prong in that connector supplies power to both headlight fuses. From there the 2 wires split and go to 2 headlight fuses . The box holding the fuses is mounted on the passenger side fender and houses 4 relays and the 2 fuses so there not hard to miss. (The holder is the one labeled 25235) From there headlight fuses the Red wire ( right side High and low beam ) and the Red wire with white stripes (left side high and low beam) route through the wiring harness going into the driver’s side fender well bulkhead going inside. If you remove the driver side inner fender plastic covering you can see the wiring loom going inside. From there the wiring splits off and goes Joint connector B (223m) which is at the driver’s side floor kick panel. From the connector the red and red/white stripes goes into another wiring loom heading to the steering column. (looking at it the 8 prong connector on the Left is for the headlights and parking lights 6 are for headlights and 2 are for the parking. The 3 prong on the Right are for the High beam switch over and the blue connector is for cruise control) At the Headlight switch connector the Red wire splits and powers the (Red with black stripe and Red with yellow stripe) (right side high low) and the Red with white stripes wires splits and power the (Red with Green stripe and red with Blue stripe) (left side high and low) Now that the wires are splits they all route through the headlight switch stalk into tiny brass/copper connections ( This is where a lot of problems can occur since there will wear out with time). The wires then go back out the headlight stalk into the headlight switch connector and back into the wire loom going down to Joint connector B again. From joint connector B the wiring goes back through the wiring loom splitting off to each headlight. The Red with black stripe and red with yellow stripe wiring going to the right side. The red with green stripe and red with blue stripe going to the left side. (Here is the wiring diagram that shows the wiring.) Also Nissan wiring color codes are alittle different then most so here is a chart to help for example (L) is actually blue for nissan. And finally we arrive at headlight socket LOL. If you’re wondering the ground wire for both headlight sockets goes to ground (12M) its located behind the battery screwed to the fender. ( I recommend cleaning that ground to keep your lights shining bright.) So there is a bunch of Useless info but should be a strong bases to go from in fixing all headlight problems. I do highly recommend installing a heavy duty headlight wiring harness with relays and sockets. The stock 18 gauge wiring is very tiny for what should be used and if you ever want to upgrade to higher watt bulbs or hid kits I highly recommend. You can buy you own 9004 heavy duty kit or make it with 2 heavy duty sockets and relays and 3 spools of different color wire. Just make sure you make or buy a kit with 12 gauge wiring to ensure you won’t have future problems. (This is the kit i purchased for $44 i could have made it for cheaper probably but the kit is well made and its 12 gauge and i like the cleaner look) (Too make life easier here is the simple install instructions for it.) Headlight Trouble Tree Chart. Steps. 1. First check to make sure you doesn’t have a burned out bulb. - Remove bulbs and verify filaments are there and not broken. 2. Verify you have 12v’s at both 15A headlight fuses which are located under relay cover on passenger side fender. - If no power at fuses check fusible links aren’t burnt and connections are solid going to fusible link box on battery terminal. 3. If power is present and fuses isn’t blown head inside the pathy. 4. Remove driver side Kick panel and find Joint Connector B (it will be a black 12 terminal connector bolted to the metal behind the kick panel trim. check for 12v on the solid red and red with white stripe wire. 5. If you don’t have 12v’s at the joint connector you have a broken wire between there and the engine bay. 6. If you have 12v’s continue and remove the 6 Philips screw holding the steering column trim on and disconnected the bigger headlight switch connector. 7. Once connector is removed check for power at the Solid red and red with white striped wire. - If power is there unbolt the headlight switch from column and plug the switch back in this will make back probing the wires easier. 8. Once the headlight switch is plug in turn the headlights and make sure one and check for 12v’s at the -Red with black stripe wire. (With High beams on) -Red with Yellow stripe wire. (With High Beams on) -Red with blue stripe wire. (With low beams on) -Red with green stripe wire. (With low beams on) 9. If 12v’s aren’t present at all of the wires you have a bad headlight switch. - You can removed the headlight switch and adjust and clean the internal copper contacts or you can purchase a new headlight switch for $45 to $55 at auto parts store. 10. Finally if you have power at all 4 wires you have an open connection between the headlight connector and the headlight sockets. -Check for burnt sockets (this will happen if you install High watt bulbs without upgrading to a heavy duty wiring harness. Thank you and have fun lol.

If you check the last 2 head lights posts they both have the same issue as you so not sure how you searched but oh well. The headlight switch needs to be cleaned or replaced and also adding in the headlight relay and wiring will do wonders. My problem was another issue but 1 of the headlights did not work and that was the headlight switch i replaced mine with a new 1 runs about $45 to 55 depending on where you shop. Power goes into the switch via 2 Headlight fuses 1 fuse controls Left side high and low and the other controls right side high and low. Then inside the switch the connector splits it into 4 wires and then goes directly to the shaft of the switch. The design is horrid and will fail with time and power going through the switch. so hope that a better understanding lol i was bored.

Yep same one i got rockauto.com had it for a little cheaper but i like having things the same or next day lol.

Yeah i think the 1 headlight not working on high might have been the switch it self but yeah when the headlights quit working for him it he just tapped the parking lights so the headlights were on when the parking lights were on. I will admit it did work but the parking lights and the headlights were all getting power from 1 (10) amp fuse not the best idea lol.

Sounds like the terminals inside the headlight switch are losing connection. There is a write up somewhere around here about how to clean disasemble the switch , clean and put back together seems to work for most or just replace the switch depending on where you go its $35 to $55 bucks for it.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!! OK so during lunch i went outside and grab my multi meter and had some more fun. I set the meter up for ohms to check for a open circuit. I put 1 lead on the positive terminal and the other on the headlight fuse wiring and nope still had a open. so then i went from the fuse to the begining of the fusible link conector and had a good connection and hooray!!! so getting some where. so i then went from the end of the fusible link connetor to the fuse and still good! so i thought loose conection i plugged the fusbile link connector back into the battery terminal box and nope no good. So i know my problem is in the black terminal box that the fusible links plugs into. So i removed the box and sure enough the box was cracked at the bottom and 1 of the terminals has been tore away and it was the terminal that powered the headlights. So i called up nissan and they had the fusbile link terminal box in stock i love that dealership for $12 bucks so i went and picked 1 up along with the fuseable links since they were only $4 bucks each and very nice to have incase of 1 blowing. Attached the new fusible link terminal connector box and plugged int the connectors and everything works good to go. Also on a side note everything electrical minus the starter cable runs through the fusible link box and the plastic was very brittle so if your every having any electrical problems look there. Here is a picture of what it looks like the 2 fusible link connectors plug into it.

Marine style looks like the wingnut on top of them right? If so i think thats the one i will go with.

Ok so after thinking about it this morning the schematic only shows the battery and then the fuses for the headlights. Since i have no power at the headlight fuses and i don't see a broken wire. Is it possible that one of the weird looking connectors coming off the positive side battery terminal be a problem? The battery has the starter cable and then a black box attached to the positive cable with 2 connectors coming out of it. The factory parts catalogs show them to be fusible links but there not what i'm used to seeing are these connectors known to go bad? I found a few pics on the forum where members have taken the connectors out of the equation and just wired them all neatly to new battery terminal connectors. Anybody know of any problems with the connectors and if they power the headlights?

Lol not a problem belive me i'm no better i was frustrated earlier since electrical is my profression i don't like to be stumped by simple wiring. SOOOO i got the diagrahm and had some fun lol. I started by checking the fuses even though the headlight were working i didn't want to skip and thing wellllll I didn't have power to either fuse ????? 1 fuse powers the left side high and low beam the other powers the right side low and high beam simple enough but i don't have power to my fuses which made no sense at all. So i did a ohm test / connectivity test to the battery since it is a direct link so no matter what it should make a complete circuit and nope it didn't. So i removed the screws holding the fuse/relay holder and removed the plastic sheathing and traced my wire back to find a break but no luck it goes more and more into the harness that i really didnt want to dig into tonight but still wondered how my headlight were working with no power to the fuses. So i then removed the steering column cover again and started tracing from there and yep found it lol. Apparently some time ago when the previous owner had it power going to the fuses must have been broke either by a broken wire or fusible link( will need to dig into that) and instead of fixing it he tapped into power wiring going to the parking lights that were going to the switch there the pink wires. Now i will admit its my fault to not have thought something was weird when i first bought it because when the parking lights were on the headlight were also on. The guy i bought it from said it had DRL's and i know some wd21's from canada had that option so i never really looked into it. i know shame on me. So i removed the taps he had from the parking lights and no more headlight on when the parking lights go on Hooray. NOW here the bad news i now have NO headlights period thats reallllly bad. So i cut 4 ft of power with 15 amp inline fuse like the stock system and ran it inside and connect 1 to the red wire Left side and 1 to the red with white striped wire right side on the head light switch and headlight work again both low and high beams hooray. so after all this work i found my original problem that was neglect so long ago. I have no power going to both my headlight fuses and its not the fuse both sides of the wire are dead of power. SO after all of this does anyone have any idea why i wouldn't have any power going to them is there some fusible link that might be bad the schematic doesn't show it at all just battery right to fuse. Worse comes i will just run new wires to the headlight fuses and go from there but i like keep stuff stock so not real happy about my rigging of my headlights but will work until i can figure out whats going on. Sorry for such a long post.

Ok looks like the headlight wiring goes from the headlight sockets to Joint Connector B (223M) and then from there to the headlight switch so i must now find that joint connector and everything will be easy from there. SO anybody have a idea where joint connector B and its number is 223M it says.

I found a really good wiring schematic of our headlight wiring so tracing the problem should be easy now.

Yeah signal is all its looking for so may just go that route i hate having broken/ pinched wires some where in the harness since it makes me think that the other wires around it might be close to the same (Pinch in the harness somewhere) but everything else on the truck is great so may just go the other route for this one.

As said in the beginning i have already replaced the bulb socket connectors and installed the heavy duty healight relay wiring harness the problem is that wiring harness and relay still needs the headlight signal from the factory wiring from the headlight switch to turn the headlights off and on and some where after the headlight switch connector and the engine bay there is a break in the wire. Was seeing if there is another connector between those 2 that might be the problem but can't seem to locate one.

OK so since i have owned this pathfinder the drivers side high beam has been inop but i have a pair of Hella driving Lights for Aux so i just turn those one with the low beams so it doesnt bother me but needs to get fixed. To start off the headlight bulbs have been replace. I have Read through all the forums and know the headlight wiring in these arent the best so i ordered a heavy duty headlight wiring harness with relays and also A brand new nissan headlight switch. Well i replaced everything and still no driver side high beam so i checked all the wiring and everything is good at the headlight plug minus no power going to the wire for the high beam. I tested the drivers side high beam wire at the switch and it has 12v but nothing at the headlight socket so i have a break some where between the 2. My question is does anyone know if there is a connector some where between the headlight switch and the headlight socket. If i can find that connector i can track the power and see where my break is but once it leaves the headlight switch the wire is gone is a mess of wiring looms so tuff to track down. My quesss is a bulkhead connector somewhere but cant seem to find it. I guess worse comes i can just cut the wiring once it leave the healight switch and hook it directly to the after market harness but really would like to keep the wiring neat.