wd21overland

You asked and you shall recieve lol. Nissan TX-10 Usage: 1986-2004 Nissan truck and Xterra, 1988-1995 Pathfinder. Notes: Part-time, chain-driven two-speed transfer case, three-piece aluminum case, 30-spline input shaft (four-cylinder trucks use a 22-spline input shaft), 2.625:1 Low gear ratio, 32:1 crawl ratio. TX-10 mated to automatic transmission featured an oil sill around the input shaft to maintain lubrication. Differences in wiring harnesses and speedo sensors exist through years of use. Most 'cases are interchangeable but can only swap a T-case behind an auto transmission with another auto trans T-case due to oil sill. Weaknesses: Low gear range is lacking compared to avg 2.72 Strengths: Versatility and parts availability Read more: http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0907_4wd_the_transfer_case/viewall.html#ixzz1mYbEEEDt Nice thing is there are many kits that will allow you to have a doupler or install 3.7 gears in it.

Yes moog parts are wonderful on quality.

To be honest i'm not sure why they used the system they did but it has always been a sore spot when offroading. The 2wd hardbody centerlink with the inner tie rods going sideways into the centerlink rather then up and down is common on alot of other 4wd vehicles. Just going through rockauto taking alook at random 4x4 the centerlinks chevy, ford, isuzu, mitsubishi , toyota and landrover to name a few all put there inner tierods in sidways on the center link i can only find 4wd nissan's that use the up and down style since when the torsion bar are cranked the inner tie rod is putting alot of upward force on the center link and idler arm. Also if anything ever goes wrong for some reason putting the stock 4wd centerlink back on will take no time since nothing permanent was every modified.

Main thing i noticed was reduced steering effort while at a stop. I took it down some gravel roads and over some heavily rutted field at decent speed to see if i could get anything to bend or flex but took a look when i got home and everything is tight and still looks the same and nothing is hitting or rubbing. Also the bump steer is gone now i might take the parts pathy to work the rest of the week and see how it feels.

Agreed

Your correst front cv's, diff gears and front driveshaft will turn if there sticking on which is alot of drag my auto hubs were sticking causing the same issue a few years back. And yeah the O2 sensor can typically fetch a few mpg's if its causing you to run rich and most emmission test don't catch all the time since there looking for nox more so always a good thing to replace there can be bought for cheap at www.rockauto.com and makes sure to use the forums discount code for 5% off.

I don't see anything about tire size in your info but i will just go with the biggest stock size 31x10.50. I have 3 paths and all get over 15mpg minimum city including my 92 which has a 6" lift and 33's and everything else to make it about a aerodynamic as a brick. So 10mpg is telling me something is off, You have alot of maintence stuff taking care of so your good there. The only thing i ask there is when is the last time you replaced you O2 sensor you don't have it listed so just seeing if it is done. Also a common problem is the auto hubs sticking on and causing the front drive train and cv's to move causing alot of drag and killing mpg. I know when i'm in 4wd playing in the snow i get about 10 to 11 mpg. So seeing if you have manual or auto hubs i swapped to manual for no more issues. A easy way to test is make a mark on the cv or shaft somewhere and then go for a quick drive and see if it has moved. If you not in 4wd the front cv's should not turn.

Correct if you use the pathfinder Outer tie rods you will need to tap both adjusters halfway to 18mm. For what i have right now i'm using the 2wd hardbody outer tie rods ends and just rotated them right side up. only downside with 2wd hardbody outer's is they are bent to be the other way around but even at full droop there is still movement in the joint so not worried but tapping the adjusting sleeve and using the pathfinder outer tre's will be a quick task if it is needed down the road so no worries.

The evap/charcoal canistor is on the drivers side fender next to the washer fluid tank. Its a black canister with 3 vaccum lines on top lines on top. 1 line goes to the intake hose 1 line goes to the gas tank 1 line goes from the gas tank

Mine did that same thing last year it ended up being the evap line going from the tank to the charcoal canister. The line cracked alittle on top of tank so the gas vapor was coming up from it. A easy way to test is to dissconect 1 line at a time from the evap canistor and use a small smoke machine used to test vaccumm lines. autozone and most places sell and rent them i picked mine up from harbor freight for $20. Or if you smoke i have seen people just blow cigeratte smoke down the vaccumm line and use that to check for leaks. For me at least thats what it was just check evap lines good.

Yep 31x10.50R15 Thats why i love bfg 33x10.50 there a light weight 33" just 45 lbs and i was able to fit them with only a 3" SL perfectley about a year ago before i installed the body lift on. They also make a 33x9.50 but there normally not in stock as much. I'm on my second set of 33x10.50 last ones went just alittle over 44k before they needed replaced.

Here is a pic from another facebook group user who has done it mines the same minus the calmini uca. Works so much better.

Ok so i went home during lunch and threw the 2wd hardbody linkage on the parts pathy. I made sure to secure the idler arm so it would not move at all during install so i could do a easy garage alignment. I removed the pathfinder center link and outer tie rods and set it aside as one whole unit to make it easy incase it needed to go back in.. Next i bolted the harbody center link to the idler and pitman arm and secured those first. Now that it was secure i needed to loosen the adjusting sleeve and extend the tierods out about 1/2 inch on both sides. I turned the outer and inner tierod about 1/4 out on both sides and resecured the nuts and i was able to get both outer tre's in and secure. There was still alot of thread left inside the adjuster so no issues there in case more or less needs to be adjusted for proper alignment. With everything secured i bolted the steering stabilzier back up and went for a test drive. I can see what he means by less effort is needed it feels like i have a bigger power steering pump on the truck its very easy to turn the wheels at a stop. It might be because the centerlink can put a better force on the tre and less things are flexing to give a better steering feel. Also this truck has torsion bars cranked and low profile bumpstops and at full droop and steering turned max everything checks good. I decided to take the parts pathy to work to see how it did on the road (The parts pathfinder has no carpet or radio lol so sucked to drive but oh well) I took the back roads to work mainly over rutted and gravel roads and everything felt great and it has no bump steer now. I'll take it out this weekend to see how it does on the hard trails before i put it on mine so will see.

Ok so i picked up the centerlink from him this morning and had a quick look. All thats needed for the swap is the 2wd centerlink and tierods (inner and outer) the pathfinder tierods can't be used since they have a different thread pitch and also seem smaller. The system design is alot better since it place the tre's on the side instead of the bottom reducing upward flex on the centerlink whihc is what kills these so quick. so will see what happens i'll throw it on during lunch.

Yeah i have a air hammer with pickle fork adapter so i will have it on the parts pathy in no time tomorrow.

Called a buddy that always has random hardbody and pathy stuff laying around he'll give me the complete hardbody 2wd steering so i'll pick it up tomorrow and install it on my parts pathfinder and give it a hard test before i think about putting it on mine.

True but i will never pay the price calmini wants for there system $630 since sas is almost cheaper for me so i might give this a try lol. But believe me i have looked at the calmini steering kit more then once and almost purchased. I've only bent 2 tre's so far and those are free to replace (love autozone) so will see what happens i love being test monkey lol. Also yes a solid one piece system can't be beat.

Ok i did some research and what you heard is true. The 2wd d21 steering linkage works great for the 4wd pathfinder and fixes the weak centerlink by placing the inner tre at a better angle and reduces bump steer. Apparently its a very popular swap in Australia i found about 26 threads on 4wd action website. Here is detailed 1 from a site. http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/777600023/m/29610055441

To be honest that setup doesn't look half bad. i'll check to see what all need swapped out minus center link.

Just wondering if anyone is running 33x10.50 on lego rims? I have the standard old soft 8's in 15x7 and i have gotten tired of them and have always love the looked of the lego's (no idea why ) I'm mainly just conecered with the tires rubbing on a turn there very narrow tires and i know some have used 33x12.50 on lego so this should work.

OK so even though it was snowing i went out and looked in the back behind the the door flap on the right side and didn't see anything. So i got a small mirror so i can see around the back and i saw a small bronze box with only 2 wires going to it and it was way far back so guessing there was no way that was it. So i removed the radio and found my amp it was a 4" cyclinder about 2" tall. I disconnected it and removed the screw holding the bracket on and pulled it out.(There's some nice space left behind now so always good. I hooked up my meter to test which colors went to the back brown for the right green for the left for me. then clip the wires from the connector and soldered them to the ones coming from the radio and good to go. Everything works fine and sounds better 2. So for me since i only had 4 speaker system i only have 1 behind the radio if you had a newer model you would have one in the back that power the front with only 4 speakers the fronts don't have a amp. Also my amp was a panasonic part# 28060 83G00 (25 WATT) lol

Yeah i only have 4 speakers (2) 6.5's in the door and (2) 6x9 in the rear in the pods. Once the snow storm quits i will check to see if there is a amp in the back.

I have searched the web and forums but sadly didn't find what i need. I installed my aftermarket stereo in my truck awhile ago and i have the power going through the factory stereo amp. Well i just upgraded my speakers again and now i'm getting more hiss so the factory amp has to go. Everything i have found deals with how to bypass the 2 amps on the clarion 93 to 95 pathfinders with speakers in the roof. But i'm told the 92's and earlier only have 1 amp for the rear but not sure if thats true. I was told i have 2 by a friend that has a 95 and he said 1 is under the radio which isn't true for mine since it the abs control unit. So just wondering if anyone knows if there is just 1 or 2 amps for 92 and older pathfinder i just want to make sure i bypass both amps if i have them. Also i believe my amp is behind the the right side rear panel i'll have to check on that in the morning.

Yeah when i cut it for the example it was about 1.7" so that's about right As for the torsion bars i haven't heard anything bad about sway away.

The springs were from the front of a 1995 jeep grand cherokee v-8. Specs Spring size: Inside Diameter 4.04' Bar Diameter .578', Resting Height 17.2" (precut pigtail) Load rating: 503 lbs After pigtail cut 16.9 inches After 1 coil cut 15.6 inches Now unless you have a decent cutting tool and picked up the springs cheap i would probaly just pick up the medium duty ome springs form here http://www.rocky-road.com/pathfindersus.html $150 for 1.75" medium duty springs shipped (not the cheapest but up to you) Also if you really just want load capacity you can get Air Lift in coil bags. Lets you air up for bigger loads without harsh ride just another option.