wd21overland

Yeah you would have thought they would have designed it the other way.

Yeah my current parts pathfinder is using the stock 2wd HB outer tierod ends for the test and works fine but if you look at them they have a bend in them that puts the outer tre at a high angle. It works fine right now but i will be using the pathfinder 4wd outer tre with retaped sleeves on my 92 pathy. 2wd outer 4wd outer

My parts will be here from rockauto on Tuesday so if no one has posted a write-up by then i will post one with pics.

i know lol i was saying your right it looks like the exhaust temp light.

Very first thing i would do is jack up the front of the truck so both wheels is off the ground and then grab the tire and move it left to right and see hoe much it moves and also what is loose. Anything causing that much movement should easliy show up when doing that. If for some reason your not able to get it off the ground have someone get in the truck and move the steering wheel back and fourth while watching the steering linkage. It could be your tension rods, tierods, idler arm or center link. My guess is a idler arm but with the way your describing multiple things may be bad. But since you said it happened right after you went offroading guessing its a idler arm or tension rods broke.

Nice write up.

Remember if you need to test it the ecu has a built in O2 sensor test. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

Yeah just go with all 6 if you cant since if one goes bad another always seems to follow.

I would do the pass and drivers side at the same time. When mine were leaking it looked just like a rear main so definatly do the covers first. Passenger side is a breeze just remove the 2 pcv vaccumn lines from the cover and take the screw out. Now i don't know if yours will be like mine but the rubber had turned into solid rock it seemed and i had to practically chisel it off of the valve cover. For the drivers side you need to remove the intake manifold, coolant passage lines, spark plug wires and random vaccumn lines it takes alittle more time but still easy enough to do.

It looks just like the exhaust temp light to me.

Waiting for a buddy to wake up in Aussie to tell me what the light is if you havent found out by then.

OK i forgot today was a 4 day weekend at work due to presidents day so i took the parts pathy to the offroad park today. After 5 hours of playing and bashing the pathy over some jumps the steering system is still nice and tight and steering wheel is still on center and nothing is bent. The exhaust tail pipe on the other hand fell off but ehh its the parts truck so no worries lol. So i went on rockauto.com and ordered all new moog parts with 2wd hb centerlink and inner tre's so should be here in a few days fun fun. Now all i really need to do to my pathy is figure out how to adapt some skid plates to it since no one makes any other then the front for our lonely wd21's

Well here is a pic of what your cluster look likes for you. The one your talking about in the middle on the bottom just right of the door ajar light looks kind of like a muffler or cup of coffe lol with 3 lines above it. I will check the manual to see what it is since i dont have a 94 to 95 pathy with that cluster.

Not sure but i will definatly take them out and check for you.

This weekend i'm taking it to the offroad park to bash it around some and see how it does. I will have the pathy centerlink with tierods in the back incase some thing breaks. It takes me a whole 15 mins to swap it all out as a whole so no issues.

Also for a update after another day of driving i really enjoy the way it feels even though it using used parts for the test it has a better steering feel then my 92 pathy and it has all new steering components lol.

Here is a example of what mine looks like just swap it to the idler side and all is well.

I'm running rough country steering stabilizer on both my pathy and the parts pathy with the 2wd hardbody center link conversion. It uses a L bracket that bolts using 2 of the pitman arm bracket bolts and then bolts to the center using the stock centerlink tab. Well with the 2wd center link conversion you need to flip the centerlink over which now moves the centerlink tab alot closer to the pitman arm bracket so all you do removed the L bracket from the pitman arm side and bolt it up using the 2 idler arm bracket bolts and all is well the stabilizer still function the same and has the same range of motion just swapped sides. The rancho stabilier kit uses the 2 idler arm bracket bolt any way so its nothing out of the normal it just has you cut off the tabs on the centerlink any way and use 2 u bolt style clamps so no matter which stabilzer you go with both will work great. Just get the kit for the 4wd pathy and you will have no issues.

Ah thanks for reminding me.

Also if anyone ever cared to know the formula to figure out your crawl ratio. Its (Transmission First Gear Ratio) X (Transfercase Low Range Gear Ratio) Take that number and times it by your rear end ratio to get your crawl ratio. Example - 1st gear ratio (3.82) X Transfercase Low Ratio (3.91) = 14.93 The take that number (14.93) X Diff Gear Ratio (4.6) = (Crawl Ratio) 68.70

Thats makes since they show up to 2004 on xterra in the diagram so they just probaly went with that number and didn't notice it change prior to 2001. Kind of makes me want to throw the 3.6 or 3.9 gears in my case that would give me one heck oh a crawl ratio.\ With 3.9 gear in my case i would have a crawl of 68.7 so very nice

Also i found this info and all of it seems correct so go with it. Nissan TX10A Number of speeds: Two High: 1:1 Low: 2.02:1 Case (or housing) material: Aluminum Front output drive type: Gear (driver side drop) Availability or aftermarket parts and support: Medium - Calmini 3.92:1 gearset, Automotive Customizers 3.6:1 gearset Input spline count: 24 (I-4) or 30 (V-6) Rear yoke: Slip Planetary gear: No Flange or slip yoke eliminator available: Yes Output shaft spline count: 30 Shifter type: Mechanical Length: ~18 inches (mount face-to-seal) Commonly found in: Mid '86-to-'04 Truck, pre '96 Pathfinders, Xterras, Frontiers Read more: http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/1005or_common_transfer_cases_guide_high_low_ranges/viewall.html#ixzz1mYfvCWid

Correct i'm showing 2.02 in the fsm not sure where the magazine got 2.62. With the 2.02 transfercase ratio the crawl ratio for the pathfinder is 35.58 so still not bad mainly due to the gear ratio. ALso i checked out the jeep liberty transmission ratio the jeep liberty came with a 42RLE transmission with 2.84 first gear ration giving it a still lower 29.585 crawl ratio. So 35.58 for pathfinder 29.585 for liberty.

Alse after checking the factory serive manual it shows 2 different transfercase ratio's for the wd21 pathfinder. one shows 2.62 like the magazine qoutes and another shows 2.02 so i will need to check into that.

I would have to see what there first gear ratio for the transmission was but for example if both have a 3.83 first gear ratio this is the crawl ratio you would get. Jeep liberty - 2.72 low and 3.73 gears gives you 38.85 crawl ratio Pathfinder - 2.62 low and 4.6 gears gives 46.40 crawl ration so a big difference.