Nefarious
-
Posts
1,743 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
19
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Nefarious
-
-
well ill take a look at the bfg a/t ko. they look alright but they sure aren't very aggressive looking, how do they do in the mud? lots of mud around here..
haha -
hmm well ive got lots to think about now it seems. i am really trying to avoid going 12.5 wide but i would also really love 33 tall or even a 34 tall tire.. why doesnt the duratrac come in a 33x10.5x15!! argh lol
-
awesome thanks good tip to save for later when i do my a/t to m/t swap!! good job on finishing it man, i just finished my engine swap too! haha good timing
-
lol yeah it was on the number one plug. they were kind of clustered together maybe ill try and seperate it more, i dont think it could have gotten interference could it? hmm... strange. the injectors are the same between the two right ? i used the vg30 injectors.. they were the same pink tops as the vg33 injectors. the old vg33e fuel rail had one old style injector in it as well among the newer ones, spliced in. just trying to eliminate any possible issues... hmmm
-
this is a motor from another truck i dont know the history , i know it was running perfect in the truck i pulled it out of... it doesnt look like the crank had been touched at all. seems like nothing really had been touched too much on the engine haha. yeah i thought if the distributor was out a tooth then i just wouldnt be able to get the right amount of timing, i have full range of adjustment from tdc to 25 btdc. so i figured it was in right?? hmm.. curious... ill try again tommorrow setting it back down to 15 degrees since it seems to be running really well now. idle is right at 750. maybe the old ecu had to learn the new engine size? hmm..
-
if my distributor was off a tooth would it change the timing reading i thought that was a constant.. does that sound like about 1 tooth, 7 so if it was off a tooth my timing reading might be off and even tho its running with the proper timing now, it displays wrong on the crank? the cap was pointed right at #1 but it could have been off slightly maybe.. sorry im still learning!! lol
-
Okay am I missing something here? I finished my vg33e swap, set timing to 15 btdc initially. fired it up and it idled good but low, and also it would bog when i gave it gas. it was running okay, but when i set it to around 22 btdc the idle picked up to 700 where it should be and the bogging went away. there was also a lean pop when it was set to 15 but none at all at 22 and it sounds good. is this normal ? i thought stock timing is 15 degrees?? it seems to run well at 22 and not so well at 15... any opinions on this. want to make sure I get it right before i start driving on it! thanks
-
just to add, all of the vg30e accessory connectors plugged right into the vg33e accessories. haven't checked a/c yet as I am not running a/c right now but I believe it is the same as well.
-
i just used high temp copper rtv on my old stock exhaust when i still ran it. worked for a year no leaks
-
I can now officially say no... I fired it up today!! Started up first try, I am impressed... No there are no wiring issues with this swap. You use the old 3.0 fuel/spark systems to run the 3.3. Depending on if you use the original 3.0 accessories or upgrade to the 3.3 accessories as I did, you have to pull the harness over to the other side for the alternator. It runs from that side already though so just undo the straps and re route it back, no biggy!
It sounds AMAZING compared to before. I am really impressed. Almost a v8 rumble. 2" outlet headers to 2" pipe which merges to 2.5" at the Y and is a short very straight shot of 2.5" inch pipe to a flowmaster and a side exit tailpipe. very simple and sounds great! ill try and get a vid up to show the sound...
I also forgot I had to plug the egr hole in the manifold!! Went all over trying to find something even the industrial stores only went up to 20 mm with a 1.5 thread pitch... I actually ended up giving up and went home and then I had a random idea to check an old 240sx transmission that I had.
if somebody can find a part number for that little plug bolt, it is the exact 22mm x 1.5 thread pitch and is the perfect length to plug into the egr!
really did luck out on that one...haha
-
x2 ^
You gotta buckle down and take the bed off man, undo the body mounts it's not that big of a job. Just get a buddy to come help. After the bed is off lay it down on some level concrete. Somwhere flat and level or put some blocks up with a laser level to set a level platform for the corners.
Take measurements of the frame once the box is off. The measurements have already been posted. If the frame is good (which i suspect it is) then carefully inspect and replace the worn out/broken rear end parts. Replace the leafs (not necessarily new) if they are broken/tweaked, and replace the bushings that are old with new ones. It will be some work but really not that much expense if you do it yourself. Good luck!
-
1
-
-
Yeah I hear ya there man, I had that same lifter ticking. Quite loud even with thicker oil and I wasn't about to go through the work of fixing the heads without getting more power out of the deal. lol. I would personally do this swap (obviously) just based on the simplicity of it and the lack of wiring/ecu work. VG is a great motor to stick with and I think the 3.3 should have plenty of power for this rig! Especially with a few bolt on goodies.
I am gunna start this thing up tomorrow, I forgot to pick up an alternator/waterpump serpentine in all the confusion, or else I would have fired it up today! *doh* lol.
I'll let everyone know how it works out and get some more pics up of how I finished the exhaust. Also put in new shocks!
This thing will be a new truck! haha -
hmmm okay well I am picking some tires up hopefully tomorrow. i have a 3" body lift and soon to be 3" suspension lift as well as trimmed fenders so room i don't think is an issue. I'll have to make a choice between bfg at and goodyear duratracs it seems as there is no compromise on the ice/snow ability.
-
got the new shocks in the front, the lower mounts insert sleeve was slightly too long to fit in the slot so about 15 seconds later with a grinding wheel and it fit right in and can still use the new bushings. other than that they went right in.
WOW my old shocks needed replacing more than I thought... one was completely blown, one was more than blown... it had blown and then seemed to have filled with sand and grit. I could barely get it out as it was so hard to compress!! Should be a huge difference im sure... lol
-
oh really? well if they are still good in ice then i am okay with that... i am about to fire up my vg33e swap with intake/headers/exhaust/elec fan tomorrow so that should be a noticeable increase in power, enough to run 33s i should hope!
any other options ?? i do like the duratracs tho....
-
Hello all I'm looking to upgrade to some real meats for my rig!! I am looking for 33-34 inch tall with a 10.5 inch wide tire preferably. I have 15 inch rims... I need a tire that I can drive all year that's not super aggressive so I can drive it on the road and get decent mileage out of them, they also must be good in ice and snow. Not just okay but GOOD in ice and snow. I also want them to be good in the mud and on trails as well. No hardcore sidewall eating rock crawling but just mud pits and trails as that's what is around here. This is not a rock crawler, it's a winter/summer/camping/expedition rig.
I have seen the goodyear duratrac. they look ideal for what I'm looking for but they only come in a 31x10.5 and 33x12.5 as far as I can tell.. I am thinking 12.5 wide would be a little much for the icy roads that frequent my area in the winter... Are there any other tires that are similar to this style?? Best of all worlds it seems?
Thanks for the input!!
-
yeah it's pretty much bolt on really, works out really well and is TONS of air to keep the pathy cool even going super slow on the super steep trails we have here on the island.
the top 2 tabs line up, you have to figure out a way to mount the bottom. I made a couple plastic tabs that I glued on to the body of the fan shroud where it would rest against the bottom of the rad, using auto goop. they let the bottom of the fan rest on the outside flanges of the rad where I drilled a small hole to put a screw in. i didnt end up using the screw after all though as just having the spacers in there at the bottom resting in between the rad and shroud puts a bit of pressure against it stops it from moving, it takes quite a bit of pulling force to get it to come off the rad so its not giong anywhere by its own weight. u could always put in a bolt or screw in the bottom into the side flange on the rad if u want there are many small holes along the edge already. really simple it took me all of 5 minutes to make it fit. lol.
-
I can't wait to fire this rig up tomorrow!! Should sure be a noticeable difference from my tired vg30e and horrible exhaust job/cracked manifold/broken studs with o2 only reading one exhaust bank.... previous owner was a tit............ now I need to find some 33x10.5 tires...
-
hahahahah okay just making sure I kind of figured it was the tail pipe lol. Those doug thorley headers look nice for sure.... I was just doing this as budget concious as possible, had a BADLY cracked stock manifold... like 4 inches long crack lol..
-
I actually looked for a Y pipe for this application. I did find one at lordco that would have worked as it was a straight piece with the other pipe coming in on an angle, which is how the pipes have to go. but it was 2" in and 2" out. that other Y pipe with 2 straight in and 1 straight out is wayyyy to big for where I wanted my pipes run. i could not find a very small compact simple Y connection with 2" in and 2.5" out so I made one. I am determined to run 2.5 inch exhaust!! lol. and I want both pipes to come together where it's 2.5 inch so there's no 2" bottleneck after the pipes meet. that's my thinking on it anyways!!
and wow are those your pipes before the Y on your setup?? where did you run the pipe across?? have a pic of it in the truck? lol it looks like a snake climbing up the chair
hehe -
Oooookay so I got the distributor set in now, ignition is all hooked up again.
Finished the Y pipe today which was one of the most frustrating parts of this swap thus far, lol. Maybe if I had a lift and I didn't have to crawl in and out from under my truck about 4000 times to get fitment right before welding. lol. Oh well it's done now, fits perfect. No rubbing anywhere.
I'm far from an exhaust pro, this is my first time for an engine swap, first time doing an exhaust system, first time for many things really... lol but it should serve the function and should flow much better than what was in there "shudders".
the Y ends up in a perfect spot really... ill weld in an o2 bung into the 2.5 inch pipe right there.
shiny new wires eeeeeee
altima dual electric fans
-
wow... that sound's like a heavy situation to be in all over an old pathy!! hope it all works out for you.
-
filled all the trucks fluids up one by one, man that was about 100$ right there lol. finished some odds and ends bolts and clamps here and there. made my lower rad hose work with the new setup. finished up all the wiring and vacuum and plumbing. bolted up front sway bar and energy suspension ends/bushings. started fabribating the 2" exhaust Y pipe into 2.5" exhaust with flowmaster muffler.
-
Ooooookay. Finally getting to the last bits here. Got all the engine wired and plumbed in now and got the exhaust started, so far so good. Going 2 inch off the headers merging into 2.5 Y pipe transition then 2.5 inch through a flowmaster and to the side exit. Using all my old exhaust pipes (used to have dual 2 inch exhaust) to make the Y pipe and transition and I got a 7 1/2 foot straight length of 2.5 to make the rest with. Flowmaster coming tomorrow.
Here's the start of it.
can see where i need to make my last cut and add one more angle to bring the pipe into the other and transition to 2.5 inch. angle will change where the black line is
yes im using duct tape to hold it in place for now. i forgot to pick up a slip joint when i was out today.
ill weld one on tomorrow.
pipe will snake inbetween torsion bar and driveshaft.
still have room to drain trans fluid and all that.
custom pop charger. needed to ditch the air box as I wanted my power steering reservoir there. works out better anyways since I have headers and exhaust going on this thing anyways!! haha.
plumbing is together and wiring complete.
this side of the engine bay is basically empty aside from the battery now. tons of room (once it's cleaned up lol)
33x10.5x15 - 34x10.5x15 Tire recommendation..? Input please!
in General Forums
Posted
I ended up finding the duratracs in 33x12.5 for 220 a tire, even cheaper than the cheapest bfg at in my area. i went with them, getting installed on wednesday!! i think they should suite all my needs
legal winter tire too...snowflake symbol. ill just have to accept that they will be a little fatter 