Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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Put these on.....
Freshly powdercoated rims/ new Goodyear Duratracs!
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Ya I believe the O2 sensor is 12mm x 1.5 thread. I know it's 12 mm. also any auto store should have exhaust flanges/gaskets/clamps/pipes/bends? have u TRIED going to the local automotive store yet? lol you could also just use slip joints that slide onto each other, then clamp down. just a little harder to get in and out that way... especially out, I find...
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this is the bumper that came on my truck when i bought it. I just powdercoated it and made it pretty at work...
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I fell in love when I saw these tires in person man. I CAN'T WAIT to drive this thing tomorrow!!!!
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3 stage powder coat job. zinc epoxy primer/gunmetal with metal flake/clearcoat
a little wider stance now...lol
cut/welded backs of the front fenders for clearance, no more sharp edges to tear tire with.
finally some ground clearance!
and now it has the power to push these babies!! still got tons of power off the line. will have to see how it does on the highway.
2 stage powdercoated gloss black front bumper/bull bar. zinc epoxy primer/gloss black. put in all clear lights.
2 stage powdercoated custom rear bumper. zinc epoxy primer/gloss black.
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here they are!!!
I just powder coated those rims with a 3 stage coat. zinc epoxy primer/gunmetal grey with metal flake added/clear coat
vroom vroom.
a little wider...lol
cut off the pinch seam flush on the back of the front fender and then welded the sheet metal together, hammered it down a little further with a torch then undercoated it. the fronts of the fenders were cut when i got the truck.
now my drums are ugly....time for rear discs....
still got to mount some mud flaps. thats just cruel to other drivers....
it fits ! wheels turn both ways fully. could use 1 more inch of lift in the front just to be safe.
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I have a 3" body lift and cranked up my torsion bars about an inch and a half over stock and I put these on today.
33x12.5x15 goodyear duratrac (close to true 33"). on very low offset steel 15x10 rims. I did do some fender trimming though!
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I would pick up a strap wrench and do my own oil changes... Strap wrench makes all the difference in getting those filters off. P.S. Just hand tighten it, and don't crank on it. The oil filter does not need to be torqued on it will not go anywhere. Then you can get it off again too. Just a tip lol.
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I wouldn't worry about breaking a valve cover bolts. It's probably already loose if the cover is leaking that badly. Not much to know really... Don't drop things in the top of the motor when you open the case! Even little bits of gasket or anything make sure to keep it clean. Put in new gasket.. Torque the bolts to the proper torque spec an in the right tightening sequence. No big deal.
The other side is a little more difficult but really it's not that bad of a job to pull the upper plenum. The lines in the back are the only real pain.
To spot oil leaks just get some engine cleaner or degreaser and clean off the engine of oil/dirt/mud/sludge mixture and then keep an eye on it an see where the oil is coming from.
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I recommend these...
B
my buddy drives those trucks
he had one blow out on him while driving, he said it was like an earthquake lol. -
Hydraulic press. Sockets should work for dies in a pinch. No press? BLOWTORCH!!!! Then re-install with a vise if they are press ins.
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Just unbolt the MIDDLE engine mount bolts (the 2 that hold the frame mount to the rubber bit), I find them much easier to put back in after from inside the fender wells. Then start jacking up on the trans bump. Do it slowly and carefully and make sure nothing is getting caught up. I never had any issues but just be safe about it and it would help to have someone at the top to tell you when you are getting close and to make sure no wires are getting caught up or anything.
You can't get the pan out of there but you can drop it down enough to re-do the gasket. It's just very tight and not much fun, but I prefer that to removing the diff!!!
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Yeah putting the diff back up in place is pretty awkward and it's really heavy. A lot heavier than it looks... I jack up the engine from the bottom right on the front of the transmission there is big hump. It will lift the engine up and stuff it up to the firewall. You are jacking up the engine via the transmission (right at the front) so it doesn't interfere with the oil pan.
Done it many times no issues at all. You leave the transmission attached to the engine and it just tilts up. You can leave the trans crossmember alone as well. There is a lot of flex in that bushing holding it to the crossmember.
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Set the timing, cranked the bars up an inch or so over stock to clear my 33's, got wiring ready for electric fan controller, drove it up and down my driveway like 6 times since it's not insured yet and I wanted to try out the new vg33e power.
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yesssss i am so excited!!! just finished my vg33e swap and intake/headers/exhaust. this is the last piece of the puzzle!! (for now, lol)
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yeah you can do it but it's not very fun. unhook the engine mounts and jack up the motor as high as u can get it. undo the pan and let it drop a few inches. then you can carefully scrape off all of the rtv WITHOUT DROPPING ANY IN THE OIL PAN, and clean and re-apply the rtv silicone... it's not fun but if you do it that way u don't have to drop the diff....which is NOT fun...lol either way there is not much fun involved...sorry to say. It is less of a hassle if u drop the diff.... dropping the diff is easy..putting it back is not so easy.....
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i will check the maf as well tomrorow. i did have to pull some extra slack out of the harness and re tape it so i had a bit more play cause I aimed my air intake forward to clear room for my power steering reservoir. could have jostled something. although it runs GREAT once its above 800-1000rpm.
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And after you ran it a while warm the ecu learned the new air flow and went back to normal? yeah there is a HUGE difference for the computer.... it was a 3.0 with stock everything and crappy exhaust and clogged air filter, now its a vg33 with full intake/headers/2.5 exhaust... i figured it would have some learning to do!! lol
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just a small update....WOW this setup has POWER. My auto pathfinder is now faster than my 5 speed 240sx.... First time I took it off I wasn't expecting it I only give it half throttle and it peeled down my driveway and spilled my drink lol. This should be enough power for anyones needs!! That's with 31s too so 33s should still have tons of get-up-and-go!!
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okay so i got the timing set back to 15 degree now that its been running for a while. it seems to be fine now, no more lean pop and no more bogging per say. there is still a hesitation RIGHT when u open the throttle. not so much with no load, moreso when i move the truck. i push down on the gas and just a split second it hesitates and might rev down just a hair and then once it starts going off it takes off like a rocket ship. i mean no joke it has POWER and lots of it.
i didn't really expect it my first time taking it down my driveway and it lit up both tires and launched the truck lol. I can't believe the power increase!!! It feels faster off the line now than my 5 speed 240sx and my pathy is an auto.... kind of surprising really.
So I just have this annoying little hesitation left to figure out otherwise it's running great. I think i'm going to go over the engine again and check all the grounds.... I think one for the driver side exhaust manifold is not there anymore and i am suspect of grounds that come off the harness by the coolant temp sensor.
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hey i had another thought... i broke the original vg30e knock sensor when i was pulling the motor down and replaced it with the vg33e one. they looked identical and the part number i could see (some was worn off) looked the same. did i assume to much in using the vg33e knock sensor... its just a microphone basically isnt it ?
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ya that was my price including install at fountain tire. Ill stick with fountain as canadian tire wants 238$ per tire, i didnt ask if that included install he just said 238$ per tire and have to wait a week to get them lol. ouch. thats the second most expensive so far. i tried there just to see after u said that since mine werent installed yet and CT is a little closer to me. I just usually don't go there anymore.... lol except for the tool sales!!
and yes.... you are right I did just want the duratracs the whole time..... lol
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my dads buddy just had a possible suggestion... maybe whoever did the timing last has the crank pulley off 1 tooth, that would account for about 7 degrees retard would it not??
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I went based off the crank pulley furthest left marking being TDC. It didn't run properly until it advanced it to the very last timing mark. There were 5 if i remember correctly. 0 - 5 - 10 - 15 - 20. It's JUST past the 20 where it seems to run right... Lol this is so weird. I'm gunna finish my e-fan controller today and fire it up and let it just run for a while and then slowly turn the timing back to 15 and see what happens.
VG33E swap into WD21
in The Garage
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I agree. I broke the plastic door handle in the winter trying to open the door so I got the metal ones (which came in chrome) on ebay for cheap. I can powder coat those black.. and the grill I would like to paint gloss black as well. Too bad it's all plastic... Wet paint it is. That is much less important than finishing my lift though!!!