Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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sooo got some more time to screw around and finished the power steering pump, this thing is as low profile as it can possibly get haha, when its compressed it sits against the oil filter flange but it tightens the belt and it fits!! the belt is 3 inches shorter.
everything lines up and i made a custom bracket to hold the pivot as well as a adjuster bracket, used some steel i had laying around and the old adjuster from the vg30 and a bunch of cutting and pasting. ill get some pics tomorrow when it's light out.
i also ended up flipping the metal and welding everything on the other ends on the tensioner so the curved slot was going the right way.
now i just need to get these things sand blasted and powder coated!
nice to have everything in there and fitting and i realised now my truck will have an extra 20 amps from the alternator and a stronger steering pump since ill be using the r50 accessories. also have easy oil filter access. -
you don't have to remove any crossmembers to get the engine out? well i took the one out that holds the rear of the front diff but thats cause those bolts holding it to the diff were seized... i just pulled my motor myself in a couple days... remove torsion bars... unbolt front cvs... jack up engine/transmission up as high as u can to get clearance. undo the bolts holding in the front diff and slide it back and out. then u have tons of room to work and to get the motor out.. i left my transmission completey in place.
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Still need to trim some off the rear pump bracket.
I realise the curved slot is going the wrong way on the tensioner but it would have been a bunch more work to attach the adjuster to the other end and move the bolt stopper to the other end and this just means I have to loosen the block end of the tensioner slightly when tensioning.. If it ever bugs me enough I'll flip it around.. Both adjusters have the same 6mm offset(from mount to mount linearly)by stacking the 2 plates up on top of the adjuster, I love when things just work out.
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heres a few pics of what i have done so far... tension/adjuster bracket is finished just need to make up a pivot bracket for the top.
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awesome. this will be good news for the vg33 guys. will be by far the easiest method of the swap...
so there was a bit of decent weather today so I worked on my p/s pump issue a little more. there is NO WAY that it will work with oem r50+wd21 brackets without cutting and welding. i am utilizing the r50 front mount oil filter and i would like to keep it if possible, if this was blocked and a filter relocated there would be more room but I should still have enough with this setup.
I decided to just make custom brackets for the power steering to mount it much closer to the engine, change the angle of the in/out lines so they line up properly and make clearance for the power steering to fit beside the steering box.
I utilized the old adjustment bracket off my vg30 p/s pump, which is MUCH shorter.. I was looking at how i could cobble something together to work as i had a lot more room once the a/c and a/c bracket were gone.
I rotated the front p/s pump bracket(the one under the pulley) so 2 of the 3 bolt holes lined up and the angle ended up being perfect for the lines now. I cut off a piece that was hanging off for the old ps line routing, which was in my way and allowed much more clearance. Then I had to make the p/s rear bracket fit so the swivel bolt would line up. Again just placed it where i needed it, which happened to cover 2 threaded bolt holes in the back side of the p/s pump.
Drilled the new holes and bolted it together.
To get the shorter adjuster to work I cut another piece of steel of similar thickness to attach to the block end so I could control the angle of the adjuster as well as making the bracket slightly longer and also have control over offset for the pulleys to line up.
Tomorrow is supposed to be nice again so hopefully I will have time to get the upper swivel mount finished up and I'll get some pictures to show everyone the process. The only trick will be finding a much shorter belt that will fit !
As it stands now everything is working out and I will have about 2 1/2 inches of adjustment to get the belt tight which should be plenty
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sooooo I think I may be able to make the power steering work after all but the air con pump will have to be removed for sure as the body of it hits the steering box lines. i may be able to adapt my old a/c pump to work later on with custom bracketry and a pulley change. this is a winter truck as it stands now so im not too concerned with removing it for now but may want to add it again later...
can mr. 510 chime in on the crank pulley adapter?? when are these going to be in production? usps shipping to canada? final cost?? I may be interested in it after all!
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okay excellent information, thanks a lot for the heads up! yeah the layout of the accessories in the x looks *similar* to the layout in my vg30e pathy(original). as in the power steering is on the same side, and the alternator is on the same side. In the r50 the alternator and power steering swap sides so the power steering ends up by the steering box (but very close) and the alternator is by the battery. There was one guy who posted in here said he dropped in the whole xterra vg33e including the accessories. now i just need to take some measurements like you said and just make sure things are going to line up for the belts... i think i found a wrecker with the parts so ill take your advice maybe even and just bring the accessories and brackets from my r50 and compare them to check belt distances, seems like the easiest route, well hopefully i work around this issue this weekend! everything else is almost done i want this thing running!!! haha for future reference, how much will you be selling your crank adapter for? hahaha.
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oh also does anyone know if i will need the xterra/frontier block/accessory brackets as welll... im assuming they are different...
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soooo was dropping the motor in today and i have overcome all the other headaches only to be faced with the last major headache....and its a painful one.
the power steering pump isnt clearing the steering box dropping it in together... i need another 3/4 inch to squeak it past which is just not there its very close. i am hoping if i dro pthe pump and then drop the motor that i will be able to get the pump on where it sits... i assumed there would be room but hopefully i didnt assume too much... lol...well ill try that in the morning otherwise i guess i will be going to the junkyard to get an xterra pump/alternator *sigh*. the pathy alternator isnt the same just flipped around is it ?? also the frontier is the same as the xterra with accessory layout, yes???
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okayyy the motor is all together and ready to go in, got a hoist lined up from a buddy. figured out what im gunna do with the a/c as well. just going to use the r50 ac pump with my currently converted r134a system. i have the aluminum lines from both vehicles im just gunna splice the end connectors that go to the a/c compressor with my existing factory lines. they go to the same location im just either gunna get them welded on from a buddy whos an aluminum welder or just use some flared fittings. using the old r50 power steering hard line and r50 pump, just a little tweak in the thin part of the line and it fits right up. this swap is a lot easier so far than i originally thought. ill get some more pics once the motor is back in and show how i adapted various things.
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assembled fuel rail, lower intake manifold, new plugs, thermostat housing, coolant pipes. motor is going in tomorrow!!
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yeah i kind of figured the gaskets made a difference... i used the matching 3.3 gaskets with the 3.3 lower manifold and the 3.0 upper manifold.
well now im glad i did that after reading mr. 510s post. now i know to swap the lower manifold and gaskets both from the 3.0 if i ever have any problems with leaking.
so today i got the intake all assembled, the injectors and rail and all the injector harness all together. just need to index the torque converter back into the transmission, swap the a/c bracket over and it's ready to go back in. seems like im going to beat the snow after all!!
btw just a note... i used the factory r50 oil pickup tube, it went to the same spot in the deep sump , same level off the bottom of the pan. it didnt quite fit at first but it was just minor rubbing on the pickup tube in the shallow part of the pan.. the pan has a couple divits in it in the far shallow end. i just "persuaded" one of the divits down maybe 1/8th inch and it fit up perfectly.
so u don't actually have to buy an xterra pickup if you dont want. just a thought. -
really now.... well that's really good to know i noticed that the 3.3 uses a lot thinner head to lower manifold gaskets. that was the only difference that i found.. the 3.0 were much thicker metal gaskets with rubber inserts and the 3.3 uses very thin sheet like metal ones like the lower to upper gasket seal. maybe this thinner gasket switch wasnt a good idea ?? hmm well i'll try it how it is with a nice silicone sealant job and see if it leaks, if it does then maybe ill switch the earlier 3.0 lower plenum and gasket set over... really want to avoid buying more gaskets for now if i don't have to. i can always re do it next year when the pathy is getting a turbo.
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drilled out broken ez out and broken lower intake manifold stud out of the head of my vg33e about to go in. also retapped the hole and put in new stud. ready for assembly now.
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the stud on the right was broken off flush with the head..
hard to see in this pic but if u look close at the top left stud u cant even see it, it was broken off so flush. previous owner left me with a present:)
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yeah when I spoke with nissan they said it was an O-ring as well... They didn't know what I meant with a flat gasket either.. hmm I suspect us in Canada get the old parts? Lol... I know with my z32 300zx in canada we didn't get a recall for a power transistor unit that controls the coil packs. We have to buy it here, and we get the same part prone to failure. In the u.s. they get an updated version that isn't prone to failure.. and for free. strange..
a note on the swap... *sigh* when I took off the lower intake manifold i noticed someone had already broken off one of the studs flush with the head... so i had the fun adventure of dealing with that. first tried not-so-ez-out. dumbest idea ever, the bolt was extremely stuck even after torch, i doubt ill ever use one of those again. it broke off in the drilled out hole in the bolt... off to the local industrial store to get some cobalt bits...drilled out the hardened steel ez out, then drilled out the whole bolt down into the head*sweating the whole time*. eventually the bit popped through the bottom straight dead on the hole and i had a sigh of relief. i then rethreaded the entire hole and put in a new lower intake manifold stud.... so that was about my whole day right there considering its freezing and only warm enough to work for 4 or 5 hours a day on this rig lol.
anyways its done now and i have 4 studs again.. assembling intake tomorrow and hopefully dropping in the new motor!!! then its just hookup and exhaust and she is done.
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I haven't actually installed those bushings but I know where the bushings are! lol. There are 2 big fat bushings in the middle of the front differential mounts. If u get under there look where your diff is bolted to the suspension crossmember. it replaces those big fat rubbers in there with the drop bushings.
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for the wiper issue that is your wiper amp that has gone bad. i had exactly the same issue with the same symptoms in my 240sx. it was a little green box in the engine bay, i think it's brown in the pathfinder. i would try replacing that first, i got mine or 5$ at the wrecker. for your dome light you might just have some loose or dirty contacts in the light? i also had a dome light that would only work sometimes with the doors but if i smacked the dome light itself a couple times it would work. just cleaned the contacts and it was fine. worth a shot??
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hmm.. well I suppose I will continue to wonder. I'm sure the o-ring will be okay
absolutely pouring where im at on vancouver island..not getting much done today I don't think...
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Dismantled VG33E brackets and plenum, fuel rail and injector harness, and cleaned the upper part of the motor. Drilled out OBX headers to fit bigger 10MM exhaust studs.
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hey also... the nissan parts guy said the gasket is actually an o ring. is there a gasket that is better or is the o-ring fine? i thought i remembered reading somewhere that a gasket there was better... maybe im mistaken.
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well then maybe I shouldn't feel so bad about it. hahaha.
on a side note.. got my steering/balljoint kit today from ebay! 180 bucks shipped for idler arm, centerlink, balljoints(4), inner outer tie rods(4). i have used parts from the same seller on my 240sx for the last 2 years and so far they are still tight like new, so hopefully these ones last on my pathy too!! sure will be better than what's in there now...
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I think I'm going to attempt this one. I like running anti-roll bars on the road as I'm used to driving a s13 and a z32, i can definitely feel the difference on-road. they suck on the trails though!! I've got the extended energy suspension front sway bar bolts as well so it should make it a little easier to work with. I'll post pics up when I do it.
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I have a brush/grille guard on my pathy but it is not the oem one. it is a lot bigger from another truck. i am currently in the process of making custom mounts to reinforce it all to the frame from the bottom and the top with some triangulation for strength, ill show ya what i mean when i get done with my engine swap and get time to finish it.
VG33E swap into WD21
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by Nefarious
got a couple shots of the fitment now.
I ended up taking off the a/c idler and that whole bracket now, it's still on in the pic. i figured im not running a/c right now, ill just leave it clean
. im going to just make my own bracket and mount it up higher now since i have a body lift i have tons of room to do whatever later down the road.
can see how tight the pump fits against the motor when its loose.
you can see the super short adjuster underneath. short bar with a long groove for adjustment.