Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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ya well then definitely mr 510s crank pulley adapter will be your best friend, maybe inquire on it? I believe he was aiming for end of the year release date but you could always ask if he would be willing to turn one for you. That item will be an invaluable piece once it is in production!!!
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the local napa where im at had Pennzoil synthetic GL-4 but it was not cheap. 12$ per litre I believe. But i mean really how often do you have to change your gear oil? cough it up and do it right... works great though and shifts much smoother than stock fluid.
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Okay I have FIRST HAND experience with it. GL-5 WILL EAT YOUR SYNCHROS!!!!! lol. I can't make it any more clear. There ARE specially marked GL-5 'type' gear oils that if you read on the back will say "also suitable for GL-4 vehicles" like the Redline MT-90 (which I recommend). I have used GL5 for as little as a month before I knew better and then I stumbled upon some startling info. Went to drain my transmission and it was gold flake gear oil. Not very comforting, although it was VERY pretty looking. Would have made a wicked paint colour!! hahahaha. So ya that 240sx 5 speed got swapped for another one about a year later as it wouldn't go into gear.
DO NOT USE GL-5!!!!!!!!
I don't care how cheap you are, don't use it. I guarantee it will cost way more to swap your trans later!
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Yeah I drove it for just a couple minutes with the 29s on front and a buddys 31s (alloy rims) on the back. It had SO much power. Put my 240sx 5 spd manual to shame lol... LMAO. It was a little disappointing putting those huge 33x12.5 on 10 inch wide steel rims cause it did rob some power, but it still has by far enough. Way more than it had before with the vg30e and 29s.
You could always use Mr. 510 crank pulley adapter, to use your original accessories. But you don't get the higher output p/s pump and 30 amp higher alternator that way.
I believe the aluminum p/s pump is 30% or so stronger and the alternator is a whopping 50% more power (60 to 90 amp) The new steering pump turns my big 33s a lot easier than the old one did when I had 33s on it for a short while(they were extremely worn and torn and came with the truck, put back on the 29s for safety lol).
and no i didn't spin them on purpose!!! i give it a little gas and the roads were just slightly wet and they started goin. i am babying these duras tho really. I cant justify ruining 1000$ lol.
yeah man this swap is BAWS. lol. im sure the intake/headers/exhaust made a pretty big difference as well... but they were really cheap actually. the headers were i believe 110-120 shipped from ebay , the muffler was 50, the pipe was another 30-40 maybe both from lordco? the intake was off ebay for 25 bucks. But it required hours and hours of welding!! I got my whole r50 engine/accessories/lines everything for 200 bucks but I had to pull it. Plus 160 for the ford lift shocks all around and maybe another 150 bucks in belts and bolts and miscellaneous other parts.
so the whole deal cost me about 785-800$ and thats including the shocks!!
can't really complain about 800$ for all those upgrades lol.
I should really get a jig setup so I can make those power steering brackets fast and easy.. sell them for a couple bucks for my time to people that want to adapt the r50 accessories (which I prefer in the wd21 as now everything lines up and the runs are all half the length).
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Oh really, I would lose low end power with the vg30 cams? and lose fuel economy? I was under the impression that my fuel economy could be improved with them as they are slightly more aggressive with slightly more lift.
USDM VG30 "Truck" cams (D21, WD21 and J30) 248/248 .393"/.393"
USDM VG33 Cams (all) 240/244 .354"/.354"
So by using a higher lift and also which is that shorter or longer duration? Haha still very new to cams... Trying to figure all of this out.. I would lose fuel economy?
The higher lift I thought would increase power slightly while keeping most of the low end since the duration is only raised to 248/248 and there is no overlap... What does the overlap do???
Where do you think this would affect my powerband? Right now the truck has so much grunt it seems to not even be revving much over 2 grand - 2400 for my late 2-3 shift that the tranny always does.
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Yeah since I went through and just made every connection immaculate and re did all the grounds to make them very strong and cleaned everything. added some jumpers. set the o2 deeper in the bung, put in some premium gas and injector cleaner. and started driving it around today. BAM. RUNS LIKE A DREAM.
Everything is just perfect now! The ECU needed a bit of real driving time under load to figure itself out and now it just purrs like a kitten. Thanks for all the helps guys getting this beast running! What a difference in power and driveability, as well as gas mileage!
This pathy will be on the road a LONG time.
Man it was fun to go wheelin again today... Haven't played in the mud or trails for 6 months!!!!!!
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No.. it is such a huge difference. The truck doesn't even feel the same. The whole powerband and revs and everything changed between the 3.3 swap and the 4 inch larger diameter tires(had 29s before these lol). The torque converter doesn't seem to really unlock anymore? I don't know why but the transmission seems smoother... I did of course change the fluid when I did it but, it's just the way it drives now is so different. The transmission seems more solid now and shifts better. The truck pulls HARD off the line. I can spin my 33s on 15x10 steel rims (heavy sons) with my auto...
On the highway the truck doesn't shift down anymore. It stays in full overdrive. My highway revs changed HUGE. It is a highway cruiser now!!! I used to be revving 2500-2600 RPM doin 100km/h on the highway... My revs have now dropped down to 1750 goin 100km/h. My gas mileage has gone up huge. I will figure out some solid numbers soon but average mileage anyways has improved by at least 60%!!. I did about 100-110km of driving today including about 45 minutes of trail / mud pits with some good acceleration runs on 10$ of premium fuel. That averages to around 23 mpg I think?!?! I used to only get maybe 18 on the highway and 15 while wheelin or around town...
I am at a loss... I was happy with my pathy before, it was a nice rig and got me around and took me where i needed to go but now it is what I always wished it was power wise and drive-ability wise. Worth every drop of sweat and blood and every dollar!!! Can't wait to get those VG30 cams in there now. Just icing on the cake!!
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Use GL4.
GL5 ***WILL*** eat the synchros and the next time you drain your fluid it will be METAL FLAKE gear oil. looks cool. lol
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Wow... just wow. This truck has changed so much... night and day difference. Still has ample power on the highway even with these ridiculous heavy wheels.... I'm about to hit a trail. Sure turns heads now too! The Ford shocks worked awesome it rides nice and even and smooth. I recommend this swap to anyone.... just wow lol. I think I'm Gunna keep this truck forever.
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!!!! You have all that around and can't use it!!!?? I would be so angry. lol. We just have to pay for our raw powder and run our parts in when the ovens are already going so it doesn't waste company natural gas. Also we can use the powder that has expired as it does have a shelf life and we have about 400 boxes of powder of various colours laying around. I would die with all that fab equipment and no means to use it! lol.
Yeah we have phosphate dunk tanks for steel and acid etching tanks for aluminum prep. 1500+ degree burn off oven. Diesel powered sand blasting tent, 2 powder booths, 2 main ovens. The larger one is 25 feet x 10 feet wide x 8 feet tall. So whatever will fit in there can be coated!
One day I will take off my frame and sand blast/coat inside and out
lol one day..... -
Just a quick update. I have the shocks installed now and they ride NICE. I am actually really impressed. At first I was a little leery to using different Ford models but the information made sense. I gotta say the pathy rides like a cadillac now!! It is so smooth and soaks up every little bump in the road. The bouncy front end is all but GONE. I thought all pathys just had a bumpy front end by nature! lol. Well these things smoothed it out anyways.
Thanks wd21overland!!!
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Like I said I changed the fluid in my 240sx diff to synthetic . It came out black and had metal shavings on the magnet. I have been driving it for 2.5-3 years now dude. I promised myself I would replace it when it gets a little worse but it keeps staying the same. Take it with a grain of salt, but this has been my experience! I think you would be fine personally but that's just my opinion!
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TIMING
in The Garage
You really do need a timing light to do it properly, bro. Sorry to say it!
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Yeah I did end up grinding down the o2 bung so it was lower profile like the stock one was. Maybe I wasted my time but just trying to eliminate everything!! Finished up the tail pipe today in 3" pipe (I already had the 90 bend and tail pipe bit so I just reused it) although I would like to make one in 2.5"... The 3" just sounds so aggressive and it's just a hair too loud.
Fan controller wiring is finished and I got everything ready to rock now... I'll swap insurance over tomorrow and keep updated on how it goes..
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Okay so I tested around everywhere. I added a jumper to the grounds i suspected. I tested all the grounds I could find and one ground seemed pretty bad but it was the one coming off the alternator harness as well as one I am not sure what it was for but right behind the battery.. they read about 3 ohm or maybe 4. anyways I rerouted those right to the negative battery cable where it first grounds to the chassis. so that is now a 0 ohm. also the TPS connector seemed loose so I took it out, tightened and cleaned the contacts. did the same for the MAF. They are on much more snuggly now. The TPS seemed to be almost loose originally. Didn't notice when I was plugging things in in a hurry.
I also put in a jerry can of premium and a heavy dose of fuel injector cleaner.
I can honestly say it is running MUCH better now. The bog is nearly 100% gone now and it doesn't die out anymore!!
I still have yet to throw the tail pipe on the end of the muffler but I don't see how that could effect it. I also noticed my O2 sensor bung seems a little long.... I used a nut from the auto store and it is a little wide... I think I will take that middle piece back out and grind the nut down some so the sensor sits further into the stream of exhaust. It might be held back a bit I wonder if that would matter too much.
Anyways it's almost there! Definitely driveable now I'm going to insure it today!!! Woooo!!!!
Hopefully this last tweak makes it perfect.
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i dunno man. nissan diffs are pretty good. I have had growling diff bearings in my 240sx for about 3.5 years now (the whole ownership of the vehicle). lol and it has never changed or gotten worse. it is not very loud though so maybe yours is worse ? mine is just a low bassy hum I can barely hear over my exhaust. I would think you would be fine, honestly though!
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this is what i meant to post up before the site crapped out lol.
and yes these rims have quite the offset to them. I would like to find some 15x8 rims with alloy deep dish to drop some wheel weight, but these came with the truck so I figured I would make them pretty and they sure look mean with the duras on there! lol
oh yeah its had some abuse but he also put a LOT of money in new parts into it before he sold it. like about 2 grand worth lol. so the mechanics of the truck is SOLID. and it is virtually rust free. most of the frame still has factory shiny paint on it.
I would like to find some used rough country style control arms as well if anyone is selling any or knows where I can buy just the arms seperately. I don't want to lift the front much more without ball joint angle correction of some kind. Is there anywhere that makes spacers with lots of angle to them? I've seen lots of threads about it but no where that actually sells them.
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Looks good. I have a few suggestions but they are just what I would do:
-Move the rear bumper up to compensate for the body lift
-Ditch that brush guard, it looks like its off a chev or something.
-Do a 3" SL so you don't have to cut out so much metal
1 - i am about to make some brackets to lift up my rear bumper.
2 - i plan on ditching the brush guard... I have this to throw on to replace it.
3 - 3" SL is in the works but I'm still going to cut metal out!!! Bottoms of the fenders where much too restrictive, how was I ever gunna stuff the 33?
and yes I know a powder coater quite well.... he is me!! lol. I did all those at work for free wooooo.
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good tip. I will go poke my girl today with the multimeter and figure this out.
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awesome thanks man, appreciate it!
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Yeah i got those grounds. But im talking the ones that come off of the main harness that runs across the front of the motor. right where the coolant temp sensor is. there are a few grounds there.... i wanted to see where they are grounded to...
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So everything with the truck is perfect aside from the hesitation/bog just when taking off initially... if u give it a lot of gas it will actually shut the engine off. if u just give it a tiny bit of a gas until it climbs from 750-900 or so rpm then u can rev it fine and give it lots of gas, and has lots of power. its just when it's going from idle to revs under load. under no load the problem doesnt seem to happen at all (free revving).
Any more ideas? I know for a fact both of these engines ran well before the swap. Mine old one had low compression on a cylinder but it ran fine and revved fine and aside from being a little underpowered had no issues. The engine I swapped in came from a running truck which I pulled it out of and I ran the motor and put it through the paces before I bought the donor truck.
I wiggled the maf connector and it didn't seem to effect anything although it's pretty hard to do it when I am driving the truck under load. Lol.... I need a small person to sit on my engine while i run the truck!! hahaha. I'll take some close up pictures tomorrow of the wiring.. Also could someone please post up a picture of the stock VG30E grounds and where they are routed for the ones around the coolant temp sensor? I don't like how those are grounded... I may run a ground jumper from those grounds back to the chassis to make sure they are solid. The metal they are bolted to(the only bolt hole around) looks suspect.
Also there shouldn't be an issue joining the 3 grounds together in that aforementioned area should there? I do have them run together as I couldn't forget exactly how they went.
ya ya I should have taken pictures first, I know.... I was eager! lol -
thanks guys
bring on the snow.....
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wow that is sick!! lol
VG33E swap into WD21
in The Garage
Posted
So i guess turbo is the next step to get more power hey? i thought the more aggressive cams would have an all around power boost. not just in higher rpm...
oh also i didn't regap my spark plugs and i read that the vg33e has a .43 plug gap. i think the vg30 gap is like .36 or something so ill have to do that tomorrow. should give me a little more efficiency i think.