Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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I removed my egr and my cat converter. evap is soon to go as well for turbo piping room hehe. Yay for zero emissions testing where i live. Ps my truck runs great without emissions and my mileage/power both improved slightly.
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Yeah I was thinking it would be fun.... I may just make my square dash gauge console fit the round dash and then extend any switch wires to fit where needed. Some gauges change signal from 90 to 93 and 94 to 95 right? I have a 93 and I HATE the square ugly red dash lol. Which gauges change between square and round?
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That's strange I never had a code when I removed mine..I removed the entire system. Hm I guess some ecu are different in that way.
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Yes the point is changing the toe while you drive.
. But if you meant at the wrong times then you are partially correct, if the car has overly worn rear suspension Bushings or a bad alignment then it can get out of whack. With good Bushings and a solid alignment the car handles like its on rails and eliminates the slight understeer inherent with the s13 chassis. The hicas is not good however if you drift. when the rear wheels spin the hicas computer is reading an incorrect vehicle speed and can turn the wheels the wrong amount or at the wrong time. For grip though it is quite fun and is incredibly nimble in the twisties. -
I noticed a gain in power if anything on my truck. I am also running a vg33e with intake headers and 2.5 exhaust. No egr, I have a 93 and I have zero issues and no codes or check engine light. Starts within 1-2 cranks every time. Runs and drives like a bat out of hell. I'm convinced the egr is useless other than maybe to help emissions a bit... they don't even use them on most jdm Nissan motors.
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As long as you have some kind of tie/toe rod then it should be fine to align... as long as it returns to perfect center. My 240sx has electronic hydraulic rear steer (super hicas) from the factory. Although it only turns a few degrees in the rear its the same theory. And a 4 wheel alignment costs the same for it. It just has extra beefy rear tie rods.
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My pathfinder rides a LOT better with jgc springs and cranked tbars then it did stock, just for the record. It is more firm but rides nicer on the road.
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For the record; when I removed my egr there was no bpt valve on the original vg30e. Mine is a 93. So it wasn't just round dash/tooth models.
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Yeah I have a deleted the egr on my old vg30e.. did it because I simply could not get the Damn bung out when I replaced my cracked manifold so I just capped it. Noticed no difference... then when I swapped to vg33e and headers I just left it out. No problems... good power and mileage...
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I already swapped in the r50 vg33e and made r50 accessories work in my wd21, interior is next hehe.
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Awesome, can't wait!! My CL is already getting loose frofrom my 33s lol.
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I love threads like this... more great junkyard parts!!!!! I am doin a round dash swap soon and r50 seats and center console would just complete the interior. If there's any update on r50 seat fitment, then keep us posted....please!
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I love that truck!!! Long travel 4wd is where its at. I would totally keep ifs if I could get 12 inches of travel Haha
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I like my option better. Use rims with a wider offset and cut your fenders up.
I can flex out my 33x12.5 duratracs HARD and i have no rear sway and 3" longer shocks with v8 cherokee springs. -
Installed my custom made idler arm brace and went wheelin' to test it out!!! Awesome day of win. lol
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Awesome and you are threading out the adjusters to use the proper outer TRE correct??
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Wow I just tested it out on some trails and mud pits tonight. I wasn't expecting such a difference!!! I had a LOT of bump steer offroad before my wheel would jerk all over the place when i hit even smaller bumps. I'm runninjg 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel rims with a lot of offset so I'm sure that has something to do with it.
Well after putting in the new idler arm bushings(the old ones weren't all that bad) and added the brace, my thumb-abusing steering wheel is NO MORE!! There is still a bit of jerking over bigger bumps and stuff but it smoothed out a HUGE amount of it. Like going through rutted tracks with minor bumps my wheel doesnt even MOVE anymore, it stays solid and comfortable and controlled. Only the bigger rocks and bumps will shove it sideways on me and that is much less violent than before. The steering actually feels tighter too? I really didn't think it would make such a difference!! I think after a steering stabilizer it will almost be comfortable to wheel it!!! LOL
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yeah its "cast" finish. its the only paint I had at home and i wasnt about to spend 10$ in gas for 5$ of black paint.
Just something to keep the rust off for now, I can always change it later, only takes me 5 mins to take it in and out. lol. -
Installed it today. Fits perfect, should strengthen things up quite a bit... Now for a 2WD hardbody center-link swap to rid myself of my loose center-link.....
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I don't think it's beating a dead horse. New solutions are always possible to old problems.
agreed.
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Tungsten is right. You can use a smaller spare on the rear but only in an open-diff truck. I would personally always rock a full size spare though...
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wow dude. that pathy looks mean...
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thanks guys! can't wait to throw it on tomorrow. and yes grease fittings = win!!. im thinking with new oem idler bushings, plus the brace and grease fitting, this thing should last a while!
and yes this was with a tiny 110v flux core arc welder. hard to get clean welds, but they are fine once cleaned up a bit.
EGR Delete VG30E?
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by Nefarious
I fabbed a block off plate for the intake manifold and then plugged off the exhaust headers tube with a (i think 22 or 24mm) threaded plug. looks nice and clean and no. I have zero check engine light, zero trouble codes on the ecu. My truck is a 1993 with 1993 ecu 1996 vg33e and zero emissions (well still evap but not for long). Using the 1993 ecu to run the emission-less vg33e with cold air intake/headers w/ 2" collectors and 2.5 inch exhaust and it still runs perfectly. I love nissan ecus.... I really need to look into that M30 swap to make even more power!
But back on track.. Im not home now but I'll snap a quick shot of the block off plate when I get home. I actually should have a picture around here of what I used to plug the header-side of the egr tube. I went around all over trying to find a plug for the damn header that would fit like stock and just thread in. I didn't want to do something nasty like welding up the hole.
It was a threaded plug I found in an old 240sx KA transmission I had laying around. I'm sure it would only be a 2$ part if you could find a part number for it, or even just hit the junkyard if theres any 240s with trans still in them... Threaded in perfect to the oem manifold-side egr tube hole. lol lucked right out! Heres a pic.
the plug came out of that hole and had that spring behind it.
and that plug fits right in there and fits like it was made for it.