Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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Looked at my JGC springs... looked at the rain.... decided a smaller project is in order.... so... Pulled the front leathers and sewed up the large rips in the driver seat and threw on some seat covers. all the seats look nice now! and the rips were so bad in the driver seat its actually more comfortable now.... lol sigh I really want to find some nice clean black leather heated seats....
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Dude the easiest way is to crack the coolant bleeder bolt on the intake manifold...fill fluid in the rad until fluid comes out the bleeder hole....put bolt back in... perfectly bled coolant system every time. that is why it's there after all.
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Lol I know guys but they are in australia keep in mind. its all nissans over there!! lol. i know its just a joke. i just thought it was funny. it was a 700$ pathy.
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Anybody see this?? Freakin awesome!! lol
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Installed 5" round Phase Linear speakers I had sitting around in the front doors and some 5"x7" MTX Thunders in the rear headliner. Muuuuuch better! Amp and sub go in tomorrow and now it is officially comfortable to drive again.
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by the way dude. i LOVE your Z!!!! seriously that thing is epic man. totally digging the style too, right down my alley. I have a 91 S13 Fastback and a 90 Z32 Slicktop, as well as the WD21. way to show the nissan sports car love!! I really want to find a clean enough 240/280 to build... that is my next dream car as im almost done cleaning up the 300ZX
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i just ordered the generic full front end kit from ebay (but it had the lime green background in the pictures, so prob same parts just diff seller). the price was pretty much the same. i am going to install them today/tomorrow as i can sure notice my front end play with my 33x12.5 tires and 15x10 steel rims
lol. the parts arrived and were packaged well and they look to be very high quality i must say. every single joint has a greasable zerk fitting as well! very nice feature to have that on every balljoint/steering joint.
ill let you know how everything goes and how they feel after.
EDIT:: that kit also has swar bar end links. nice one, mine didnt.
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also will say it went through the mud pit area with ease compared to a 91 toyota pickup with a welded rear and 31" bfg ats.
oh and yes they are 15x10 steel rims that I powdercoated at work.
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Will do man. these tires so far are the best all around tire that me or any of my friends have ridden with all our trucks combined. they went through the local mud hole in a spot with my wd21 with the 33x12.5 duratracs with an OPEN diff, that a r50 with bfg all terrain 31x10.5 with a LSD got stuck in over and over and had to take an alternate route. the difference was not only there but HUGE. while his got stuck repeatedly, mine just crawled through without even so much as slipping. and i barely had to rev it to make it up the hill after. these things GRIP. its a deep rutted mud hole with lots of big roots throughout and a slippery hill at the end of it with a few large ruts right before the incline. kind of tricky spot.
the ride on the road is also FAR better than the stock size yoko geolanders (old style) that i had on before. very little highway noise. my mileage is actually quite good (but i also just did a vg33 swap and headers/exhaust/intake so that could have something to do with it)
they are also extremely good in the rain. we get a LOT of rain where i live and very large puddles gather on the highway sometimes spanning the entire 2 lane section for a good 20 or 30 feet. even up to 4 inches of water in bad spots. extreme hydroplane risk. they take it like a champion i can cruise through large puddles at 100 no problem. they never feel sketchy around corners or in bad weather.
now i will just have to see what kind of mileage i get out of them. going to replace the front end parts and get an alignment to make sure they last as logn as possible.
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Yeah unfortunately they said they don't offer roadside warranty on off-road tires.. only passenger tires.. so I freaked out and got really mad and they ended up giving me a new one for store-cost and free balance and labour. I'm going to contact Goodyear directly to try and get them to reimburse me for the rest. Not the worst case I suppose.
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^ very interesting information!
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ya man i would suggest some graphite lock lube (or just graphite lube). it will actually stick to the surfaces you spray it on and it isn't affected by the cold.
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punctured the sidewall on one of my brand new 4 day old 33x12.5 duratracs
such a fluke to happen... soooooo damn lame......... hopefully the tire shop will do something about it. tragic ;( -
ohh man. well it is just a plastic cap i mean those gears will probably make short work of it....but....yeah probably not the greatest idea.... maybe fashion some really long tweezers or something?? u can't feel it at all eh?? i wouldn't start pouring water in your diff....best to keep the water out of diffs....
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dude that is so much more work.... it really should not be that bad to line up the motor and transmission... just put a jack under the little hump on the bottom front of the transmission to straighten it out and level it with the engine.
then put your motor in the engine bay and make sure it is sitting LEVEL. do this with the headers off makes it much easier!!!! i found it was easiest to drop the motor down with the engine mounts fully attached to the MOTOR. then let it rest on the motor mount pads on the frame.
then u can just slightly take some weight off the motor and make sure it's really level again. and just shove it backwards. i just used my arms and a jack for that....then...
get a pry bar!! all u need to do is line up one side with the plug and hole to line up. then u just go to the other side and jack up whatever u need to to get it to line up.
you must be able to do it man. i did the whole job by myself!!! just take a bit of patience. im telling you it is a lot easier then putting engine and transmission in together... transmission is awkward and very heavy and large, and the engine and transmission together is VERY long... u have a lot more work ahead of yourself going that route....
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oh hey.. no way.. now that i think about it, i dont think the rear wiper works either!!! it totally went to the back of my mind as i never use it anyway.. haha
i didnt get a chance to check it out being christmas at all but that really would make sense! ill check it tomorrow. thanks guys!!
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the truck is still running a little rich as well too so I am really thinking about taking a crack at rom tuning. I have a bag full of EPROM sockets and i believe the vg30e has an 8 bit ecu am i correct? a nice tune would really wake up this motor with the bigger pipes on it....
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i had a tired vg30e before ... 153 HP and 170 ft lbs torque. I now have a VG33e with 170hp and 202 ft lbs torque stock then I also now have full mandrel bent stainless polished headers which flow into 2.5 inch very short, very straight run of exhaust, with no cat. also have a pop charger filter for the intake as well as a/c delete and clutch fan delete. which both take some drag off the motor.
I would say my current vg33 would be closer to 200hp and 220 ft lbs with the breather mods done to it. so that is then a much mroe significant power change than just a stock vg30e. so yes even with the bigger tires and bigger rims, i have MORE power. noticeably more. as in my truck doesnt downshift for most hills anymore, my revs are barely above 2000rpm unless i am accelerating and even then it doesnt go above 2750 unless i a really gunning it. down low i have WAY more torque. like in 4 wheel drive i can get my truck to launch forward offroad now. before it would accelerate in 4wd but it wouldnt actually launch the truck.
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part of the workplace hazardous materials information system
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material safety data sheet
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i find the truck has GOBS of power down low from idle to around 2000. then it seems it drops off a bit. until again later on around 3000. if the vg30e cams would help move more power to 2000-3000rpm then i would be down. as that would give me a really smooth linear power curve
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well I find that with the new larger diameter tires and the new motor my revs stay a lot lower than they did before . i am thinking since the truck stays between 750-3000 rpm mainly when i am under normal load accellerating i would be better to keep my power down low...
although i like to race engines i find that is more suited to car...like say my 240sx or 300zx
although I would be interested in doing it if the power band that it increased was between ssay 2000 and 3000. because i am there quite a bit. if it will only give me power in the 4-5000 range then i will stick with my 33 cams.
i like my truck to accelerate fast and not have to TRY to accelerate, you know? I guess I should stick with the vg33 cams for now until I add a turbo at some point down the line. Another reason I want to keep my body lift....ample turbo room underneath.
i have access to a z31 t3 turbo for next to nothing, should be good for a comfortable 8-10 psi and hopefully around 300hp
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kk thanks for the leading direction guys. Yeah i searched a bunch and found NOTHING about the power mirrors not working lol. seems to be a pretty reliable system on these rigs! haha yeah ill start dismantling tomorrow and see if its plugged in first and check the relay as well.
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Hey all. Well after putting my Pathfinder back on the road I was reminded that my power mirrors dont work!! Haha they never have since I've owned it..kind of forgot. Anyway, has anyone been through this before? What exactly does the system consist of... Neither side works up or down; left or right.
Before I start tearing into the interior, what am I looking for? Is there some kind of power mirror amplifier that is prone to failure? Could it be the switch since nothing at all works? Always nice to ask around if anyone else has already dealt with the headache!
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
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Lol. you took off your skidplate to brake clean your gas tank? now that is devotion! closest u will see me in there is with the end nozzle of the local gas station pressure washer
i tip my hat to you good sir. lol