Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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that is awesome! what drivetrain are you running to make the passenger drop diff work?
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take measurements of the inside diameter of the hole the bushing fits into and then phone energy suspension with the exact dimensions, they should have something that will fit. they make a LOT of bushings and only half of them are listed..
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fronts springs out of a v8 jeep grand cherokee. look at the coils there should be a yellow paper tag with a part number starting with FN. those are what ya want. You cut off the little pig tail end and then fit them in the rear of the pathy. Your 2 door should get 3 inches of rear suspension lift with those springs for 50$ bucks give or take. I live by you and I went to garys auto, its a jeep place.
for the front suspension you can just crank up your torsion bars 2-3 inches (probably need to reindex them) and get some low profile bump stops so you can keep some down travel once cranked up. cheapest way to do it and my truck doesn't ride bad at all.
low profile bumpstops from lordco were about 16 bucks for the pair.
there's a full 3 inch lift for about 60-75 bucks. can't really complain there, then just take it in and get an alignment (a full proper one where they shim the upper control arms for camber/caster) and you will be good to go.
for shocks I used (i think '85 or '87) ford bronco II shocks up front (they are a little longer than stock so they allow you to use up the low profile bump stops increased travel). for the rear I used 1997 ford f350 (single rear shock type), they are 3" longer than stock shocks so you can get some crazy flex in the rear with the jeep springs/ford f350 shocks. I believe I paid 35$ per shock and they let me max out my front and rear suspension travel.
50+16+(35x4)= 206$ plus tax for full 3 inch lift with new extended shocks all around. can't really complain! i been rockin mine for about a year now with no issues.
p.s. to make the f350 shocks fit the rear properly you need to change out the lower shock bushings to the pathfinder lower shock bushing. it's really easy or you can just press out the little metal sleeve in the middle and slide it over the lower shock tab and then plaster it with some 3m window weld (fast curing polyurethane) and make your own bushing out of it. your call.
rear lift flexing, still got more to go too, thats with jgc springs and ford f350 shocks.
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Hahaha ya I figured I would need some serious luck. I've done all poly Bushings in my s13. I was hoping the wd would be about the same lol. Uca looks easy.... lca looks stupid.... I might also wait till I sas for that one.... lol
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Wow hostility, the guy was just trying to help.
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Toyota rear axle is not stronger.8 inch ring and pinion vs 9.25ish... not even comparable. The axles are strong though. but what about the passenger side diff up front? How will you get your propeller shaft to line up?
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Replaced rear seat hinge pins with wire lock pins.5$ in parts and my truck gained 20+ inches of bed space!
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Ah I gotcha. I run with my sway bars on as I spend too much time driving in really crappy city conditions as well as up in the mountains. looking into sway disconnects but I definitely need them on front and rear for my city driving time, I hate sloshy sloppy handling (too much time driving my 240sx and z32 300zx lol). There are fatter options out there for the inner tie rod, like the moog ones tungsten is using. They are crazy beefy and I doubt you would bend one of those unless it took a real good hit. I think sloppy bushings make a big difference too... i going to do polyurethane uca and lca bushings, i have poly everywhere else already and it was a major positive. I think the chance of bending things goes down a lot when all the slack and slop is taken out of the system, thats just my opinion though.
I just did this on the cheap as I just need it to tie me over until next year after electronics tech school when I can take the time to sas it with a 3-link.
and it sure rides a hell of a lot better with my torsion crank. the tie rod joints arent nearly as flexed to their end of their travel like they were before with the dogbone style too.. -
Well I have no power steering temp gauge but I have been having no issues at will the setup. no weird p/s noises or strains, I am also running a vg33e with r50 accessories too so I have the stronger power steering pump so that may help as well.
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Okay now that I have really driven this thing around with a good alignment I have nothing but good things to say.... truck drives just amazing. Better than it ever did with the factory steering setup. It is so nice to drive my rig around without the wheel flailing all over the place. It's also easier to turn my big heavy wheels by a good amount.
I don't know if its just the leverage difference or what but my steering input is a lot easier than before with my 90 lb wheels. It has held up great so far. Lots of rough broken roads, logging roads, off-road driving, no wear yet in any joints. It all is as tight as new. I can see why every other ifs 4x4 uses this style steering... the dogbone is just hoakey for a truck with any lift or suspension articulation.
I had a chat with jimmy baja on Facebook and he agreed the 2wd has a lot better steering for offroading. He built the long travel 4x4 wd21 and 2wd d21. He uses the stock steering of the 2wd truck for his long travel kit. It must be ok.
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i rock a wd21 but i am running 15x10 steels with 33x12.5 just for reference. lots of trimming though!
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Replaced my torn center link boot with polyurethane replacement and modified my custom idlers arm brace to be uber strong!!
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Yeah severe as in bashing around on rocks maybe. This isn't a rock crawler its my dd and weekend fun rig. I'm not worried about bending anything...I wheel a lot but I don't try and bounce up trails... more slow technical crawling. I've never bent a steering or suspension part but I have had my steering joints go loose rapidly from the bad angles the inner/outer tie rods are at when the t-bars are cranked up. Also since the dog bone style is gone, the tie rods dont pry up and down so hard on the center link joints, they are allowed to easilly twist the inner tie rods ball joint rather than pushing it through to the end of it's range and prying on the edge of the joint and the center link.
Also I was so sick of dd my rig with all the bumpsteer from the bad angles of the stock steering for a truck lifted 3 inches up front. My bumpsteer even on really bad roads is almost totally gone. Feels way better in that respect. Its also a lot more comfortable to drive offroad as the wheel isn't jerking around everywhere!
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Ohh...mine were just clamped around a flared end... was super simple to replace. Well they are great boots if u can get them to fit.
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you can replace the boot with polyurethane replacement boot. any auto parts store can get them.. energy suspension makes em.
I noticed my boot was already slightly torn a bit on the bottom by the taper when i replaced my pitman arm with the proper one so I took the measurements and I am about to head to lordco to pick up the set.
ill let you know what part number it is when I return. 6$ for a pair of 2 with my discount. a lot better than a new center link!
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Either way it is either your throw out bearing or your pilot bushing. Either way you have to drop the transmission to fix them. Either way they are both very very cheap. Just wait until your clutch starts to get weak and then drop the trans and replace the clutch/throw out/pilot. they usually come with your clutch kit...
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I know... Me too. and in my experience it's been the joint on the idler side of the center link that goes, not the pitman side. 2 center links now I have gone through same thing. Now my idler arm is braced though so that shouldn't happen anymore.
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Yeah the idler arms are the same, all the ones I have come across are the smaller taper. When you look at a newer style 4wd center link it has a small taper on one end and larger on the other. So you should be fine there!
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all 2wd center links use the small taper as far as I know, as tungsten used a 1997 2wd center link.. I believe anyways.. The 2wd center link I used was a 92-93 and it is the same tapers as well. If your truck is 87 you are good to go. It will fit in without any modification if your truck is 87-92. if your truck is 93-95 then you need to swap in a 91-92 pitman arm.
My setup is still holding up to 33x12.5 tires on very heavy 15x10 steel rims with aggressive back spacing (stick out the fenders about 5 inches) and there is no wear at all in the system yet. Still looks brand new and all the joints are still very tight. This is with the cheapest parts I could find as well! Tungstens inner tie rods are beefier than mine and should hold up even better.
I'm hitting the trails up stave lake and surrounding areas this weekend I will let you know how it holds up to some abuse!
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JEGS has some 1" universal. they will fit a wd21 perfectly. im not sure about r50 but they are cut-to-fit so as long as the spring is the same diameter or smaller it should be fine. 11.99 each. pretty good price. im picking these up to go on my JGC springs for a 4 inch total rear lift on my wd21.
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Just a heads up. I found out since my truck is a 1993 (made after 07/1992 production date) it has a large taper pitman arm hole. The 2WD center link has a 1986-1992 style smaller taper on the pitman arm. This causes the taper of the centerlink to be too loose to fit properly in the pitman arm hole.
The solution is to swap in a pitman arm from a 1991-1992 truck (with production dates from 07/1990-07/1992) which has the large steering gear output shaft and same spline count as well as the smaller taper. Pitman arms on trucks older than 1991 will not work to swap to a 1993+ truck (production date 07/1992 or newer) as they use a small steering gear output shaft with a different spline count.
So for future reference to do this swap you must have a 86 to 92 model year truck or you must swap in a 91 or 92 model year pitman arm if you have a 93 or newer truck.
There are 3 types of pitman arms. One from 07/1986 to 06/1990 (small spines and small taper) one from 07/1990 to 06/1992 (large spline small taper, the one you want to swap in if your truck is made after 06/1992) and then one from 07/1992+ (large spline large taper).
It will of course fit fine on older trucks before 91 of course, but this is if you want to use a new model power steering gear box with the older smaller taper.
Just thought I would clarify for anyone doing the swap.
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Awesome thanks for the quick reply tungsten. Just went to the jy and pulled a 91 pitman arm.
Just cleaned it up and gave it a heavy coat of rust paint. I'll swap it with my 95 one next time I have some more motivation and get it back in the alignment shop. My boot luckily has survived and is totally fine. Just did all of my ball joints and wheel bearings while I was at it. Phew....this thing is going to drive nicely after!
So for future reference to do this swap you must have a 86 to 92 model year truck (07/1986-06/1992 production date) or swap in a 91 or 92 (07/1990-06/1992 production date) pitman arm if you have a 93 (07/1992+ production date) or newer truck.
There are 3 types of pitman arms. One from 07/1986 to 06/1990 (small spines and small taper) one from 07/1990 to 06/1992 (large spline small taper, the one you want if your truck is made after 06/1992) and then one from 07/1992+ (large spline large taper).
It will of course fit fine on older trucks before 91 of course, but this is if you want to use a new model power steering gear box with the older smaller taper.
Just thought I would clarify for anyone doing the swap.
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so any luck? did the 91 arm fit on the 95 steering box? before i go through the work of pulling one in a junkyard I want to confirm it will fit!!
thanks
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by Nefarious
well in the entire time owning my pathfinder it has never had even one working key for the outside of the truck. My keyless entry was the only way to lock/unlock the trunk.
Well my battery died the other night, right dead, still to be determined what caused it. I was locked out of my truck and I didn't even lock my keys in.
Phoned tow truck to open up the door and decided it's time to make my one working key (ignition) work on my whole truck!
so off I went to the junk yard and got 1 good driver door lock cylinder and sensor from a 95 to replace the smashed in driver door lock cylinder, pulled 4 extra cylinders for parts.
replaced my broken drivers door lock cylinder (someone had screw drivered it at some point), straightened the bent metal around the lock hole.
gutted the 4 extra lock cylinders for the pins, measured with a digital caliper and organized to the 4 types into bags.
took my passenger door lock out (it didn't match the ignition) and began the learning process!
So far I have my driver/passenger doors rekeyed to my ignition! Still have to do glove box and hatch glass today. Screw paying a lock smith!
Total cost to replace broken lock and rekey the others: 10$