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Nefarious

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Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. so major question here. i phoned nissan to get a oil pickup tube from a xterra with a vg33e. he said there are 3 seperate part numbers for oil pick up tubes for 3.3 xterra. one for 99, one for 2000, and one for 2001-200X. which year oil pickup should i get ???

  2. oh really yeah man that would be awesome if you could dig that up for me!! i am planning on just using the current r50 pathy accessories for now cause i need to get this thing winter ready, the r50 steering pump looks smaller but it should work at least somewhat until i have more time (after the snow is gone) to switch it over to xterra/frontier accesories (which are laid out similar to the wd21 pathfinder, correct?)

  3. mr 510 - yeah man the torque converter is a pain!!! i couldnt believe there was no access. I just remembered how easy it was to pull the 3.3 we just pulled it with the converter attached as well. I was already so bloody and cold i just wanted it out. if it was stiff if any way i was gunna keep at it but it just slid off once i got the last engine bolt out so i think it's fine. there was no real pressure on it. hey if it ever goes that's just more reason to swap in a 5 speed manual right ? :P

     

    actually there are new plans accumulating now as my mom's boyfriend has a spare z31 turbo, ecu, and exhaust manifolds sitting around which might be getting fitted to my new 3.3 with an exhaust stack and a snorkle for underwateryness :)

  4. yeah I was about fed up with the torque converter I just wanted it out lol so sick of being under that thing but yes I am definitely going to reindex it into the trans before re installing. it broke loose really easilly it came out just as easy as any manual ever has and everything looks clean and tight still. I will definitely inspect the tranny seal but it looks good. the motor came out really smooth it just kind of slid out. no pulling or tugging or shaking.

     

    yes my 240sx tow car came in handy there!! i got a bad shoulder I been working with for the last 6 months from a work accident so i wasnt about to try and hand bomb that hoist back on a gravel driveway lol. KA24DE towing power!!! lol

  5. that sir is a fantastic idea lol... got the diff out today and the motor out as well! :) mucho successo. It was fun as I have a gravel driveway which i was doing this in so moving an engine hoist is pretty damn hard once the weight is on it. I had my 240 with a tie strap to the tow hook and the base of the hoist. hahahaha. Worked great though and just slipped right out!! trying to track down a used xterra oil pickup tube now then im ready to drop in the 3.3. I snapped some pics which ill post in my vg33e swap thread. once i figure out where to host the pics...

  6. Perfect thanks for all the info guys. I just found the factory service manual online and downloaded the pdf file so I got that now. Thanks for the oil pan reference. I have the t-bars out already as I need to reindex them for my 3" lift coming soon, figured now is the time while im under there. We'll see how it goes tomorrow! I'll get some pics of my pathy up soon it's got a few custom things done. :)

  7. ok thanks man ya i have the t-bars off already, i will just try unbolting the 2 front diff mounts and the cvs like you said. i do have those 4 front bolts out that hold in the front crossmemer , i just moved the control arm down a bit and i was able to get both bolts out on each side so the front crossmember should be loose but it wont budge.

     

    so yeah maybe ill just try unbolting the diff from the front crossmember mounts and cvs and try sliding it out the rear...the engine is on the hoist and is sitting as high as it will so i have lots of room underneath..

  8. Hey guys i am currently swapping in a 3.3 to my truck but first i need to get the old motor out. what is the best way to take down the front diff??? i have the t-bars out already as im gunna reindex them, i have the 4 bolts out in the front holding the front crossmember up. i have the front diff rear crossmember detached and sitting loose, sway bar is detached from the front crossmember. the rear crossmember drops down a bit but i cant even get the front to budge. should i not be taking out the front crossmember??? i was trying to drop both crossmembers/front diff in one piece so i could leave the cvs hooked up. should i unbolt the 2 front diff mounts that attach to the front crossmember instead, unbolt the cvs and leave the front crossmember alone?? will the diff come out from the rear without removing front crossmember?? please someone who has done this help me, i got the hoist rented and want to return it by tomorrow. :P thanks!!

  9. hey okay now I gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up. Yeah I have a 3" BL in my truck as well so there is ample engine bay space to relocate lines/res tanks to make the r50 accessories work. I could definitely see in a z31 that would be a lot harder to do with the much tighter space confines. Actually my moms boyfriend is building a z31 though and I believe he is looking for a 3.3 as well. I will let him know you make an adapter as that would probably make his life a lot easier. Is it released for the public yet or are you still on prototype stage??? billet aluminum?? what about the damper? any issues known with vg30s and running no damper pulley? I guess it's a pretty well balanced v6 so I couldn't see it being too bad.

  10. but im planning on using the entire vg33e engine/accessories the same as it was assembled in the r50 and adapting the power steering lines instead of using the vg30e accessories. why would i have to touch the water/oil pump??? im confused.

  11. excellent ya thanks man I ran across that afterwards. Going to look at the local jap scrap yard tomorrow for a 4.6 lsd and manual lockers :)

     

    on that note.... what is going to be the easiest way to swap the LSD into my truck??? Never done any differential work before... Is there just a cover to take off and slide out the axles and take it out?? or swap the whole 3rd member would be easier? lots of questions I know but I want to get this right... thanks

  12. I would definitely check the maf. Had a similar problem on an old sentra.. wouldn't rev past 2700. New (used) maf from the junkyard and viola. Like previously mentioned the MAF test is super easy to do with a multimeter.

  13. oh really, haha. that must be some tough plastic then indeed! ill keep an eye out for that magical sticker as well as some oem manual lockers. it is any hardbody 90 something and up right?? 28 spline is what i am looking for am i correct?? anyone know which years the hardbody went to 28 spline front??

  14. Yeah I think I will use an external cooler, I might as well now that it's all apart. My auto shifts a little hard into 2nd sometimes but other than that it's fine so hopefully it will hold up for a while. If not I'll swap in the 5 speed from a pathy or hardbody.

     

    Hey on another note I am going to swap in a LSD 3rd member. Is there any way to tell just by looking at a truck if it has one?? I know to look for a sticker but I imagine a LSD OIL ONLY sticker might be worn off after the years... What should I look for on the door tag?

     

    Thanks everyone this place is awesome.

  15. So you think the r50 pump will be strong enough to power the wd21 box?? Cause that would be the easiest route for me as I have all the lines from an r50 to hook it up in my wd21. Only thing i will miss is having my alternator a little higher up from water.

  16. So I did some research and found out the early xterras vg33e has the power steering and alternator on the same side as the vg30e. as opposed to the vg33e pathfinder which has them swapped to the opposite sides (the engine i have). does anyone here have an xterra to confirm or take a picture that this would work? if i got xterra ps pump and alternator and bolted them to the 3.3 that i have then just hook up to my existing lines... hmmm just ideas anyone with a 3.3 xterra on the forums??

  17. thanks for the reply. I am getting it all laid out next to each other to see what I need to swap over. I will definitely try swapping the brackets, you are right it would make life a lot easier. I'm gunna leave the a/c alone for now too since I noticed it doesn't move locations so hopefully it will just bolt up and then i will just need to modify the bracket to be offset since the rest of the pulleys will be off-set from the rest of them... oh wait maybe I will have to do that for all of them if I use the old brackets, since the crank pulley belt grooves are not in the same place.

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