Nefarious

punctured the sidewall on one of my brand new 4 day old 33x12.5 duratracs such a fluke to happen... soooooo damn lame......... hopefully the tire shop will do something about it. tragic ;(

ohh man. well it is just a plastic cap i mean those gears will probably make short work of it....but....yeah probably not the greatest idea.... maybe fashion some really long tweezers or something?? u can't feel it at all eh?? i wouldn't start pouring water in your diff....best to keep the water out of diffs....

dude that is so much more work.... it really should not be that bad to line up the motor and transmission... just put a jack under the little hump on the bottom front of the transmission to straighten it out and level it with the engine. then put your motor in the engine bay and make sure it is sitting LEVEL. do this with the headers off makes it much easier!!!! i found it was easiest to drop the motor down with the engine mounts fully attached to the MOTOR. then let it rest on the motor mount pads on the frame. then u can just slightly take some weight off the motor and make sure it's really level again. and just shove it backwards. i just used my arms and a jack for that....then... get a pry bar!! all u need to do is line up one side with the plug and hole to line up. then u just go to the other side and jack up whatever u need to to get it to line up. you must be able to do it man. i did the whole job by myself!!! just take a bit of patience. im telling you it is a lot easier then putting engine and transmission in together... transmission is awkward and very heavy and large, and the engine and transmission together is VERY long... u have a lot more work ahead of yourself going that route....

oh hey.. no way.. now that i think about it, i dont think the rear wiper works either!!! it totally went to the back of my mind as i never use it anyway.. haha i didnt get a chance to check it out being christmas at all but that really would make sense! ill check it tomorrow. thanks guys!!

the truck is still running a little rich as well too so I am really thinking about taking a crack at rom tuning. I have a bag full of EPROM sockets and i believe the vg30e has an 8 bit ecu am i correct? a nice tune would really wake up this motor with the bigger pipes on it....

i had a tired vg30e before ... 153 HP and 170 ft lbs torque. I now have a VG33e with 170hp and 202 ft lbs torque stock then I also now have full mandrel bent stainless polished headers which flow into 2.5 inch very short, very straight run of exhaust, with no cat. also have a pop charger filter for the intake as well as a/c delete and clutch fan delete. which both take some drag off the motor. I would say my current vg33 would be closer to 200hp and 220 ft lbs with the breather mods done to it. so that is then a much mroe significant power change than just a stock vg30e. so yes even with the bigger tires and bigger rims, i have MORE power. noticeably more. as in my truck doesnt downshift for most hills anymore, my revs are barely above 2000rpm unless i am accelerating and even then it doesnt go above 2750 unless i a really gunning it. down low i have WAY more torque. like in 4 wheel drive i can get my truck to launch forward offroad now. before it would accelerate in 4wd but it wouldnt actually launch the truck.

part of the workplace hazardous materials information system

material safety data sheet

i find the truck has GOBS of power down low from idle to around 2000. then it seems it drops off a bit. until again later on around 3000. if the vg30e cams would help move more power to 2000-3000rpm then i would be down. as that would give me a really smooth linear power curve

well I find that with the new larger diameter tires and the new motor my revs stay a lot lower than they did before . i am thinking since the truck stays between 750-3000 rpm mainly when i am under normal load accellerating i would be better to keep my power down low... although i like to race engines i find that is more suited to car...like say my 240sx or 300zx although I would be interested in doing it if the power band that it increased was between ssay 2000 and 3000. because i am there quite a bit. if it will only give me power in the 4-5000 range then i will stick with my 33 cams. i like my truck to accelerate fast and not have to TRY to accelerate, you know? I guess I should stick with the vg33 cams for now until I add a turbo at some point down the line. Another reason I want to keep my body lift....ample turbo room underneath. i have access to a z31 t3 turbo for next to nothing, should be good for a comfortable 8-10 psi and hopefully around 300hp

kk thanks for the leading direction guys. Yeah i searched a bunch and found NOTHING about the power mirrors not working lol. seems to be a pretty reliable system on these rigs! haha yeah ill start dismantling tomorrow and see if its plugged in first and check the relay as well.

Hey all. Well after putting my Pathfinder back on the road I was reminded that my power mirrors dont work!! Haha they never have since I've owned it..kind of forgot. Anyway, has anyone been through this before? What exactly does the system consist of... Neither side works up or down; left or right. Before I start tearing into the interior, what am I looking for? Is there some kind of power mirror amplifier that is prone to failure? Could it be the switch since nothing at all works? Always nice to ask around if anyone else has already dealt with the headache!

So i guess turbo is the next step to get more power hey? i thought the more aggressive cams would have an all around power boost. not just in higher rpm... oh also i didn't regap my spark plugs and i read that the vg33e has a .43 plug gap. i think the vg30 gap is like .36 or something so ill have to do that tomorrow. should give me a little more efficiency i think.

ya well then definitely mr 510s crank pulley adapter will be your best friend, maybe inquire on it? I believe he was aiming for end of the year release date but you could always ask if he would be willing to turn one for you. That item will be an invaluable piece once it is in production!!!

the local napa where im at had Pennzoil synthetic GL-4 but it was not cheap. 12$ per litre I believe. But i mean really how often do you have to change your gear oil? cough it up and do it right... works great though and shifts much smoother than stock fluid.

Okay I have FIRST HAND experience with it. GL-5 WILL EAT YOUR SYNCHROS!!!!! lol. I can't make it any more clear. There ARE specially marked GL-5 'type' gear oils that if you read on the back will say "also suitable for GL-4 vehicles" like the Redline MT-90 (which I recommend). I have used GL5 for as little as a month before I knew better and then I stumbled upon some startling info. Went to drain my transmission and it was gold flake gear oil. Not very comforting, although it was VERY pretty looking. Would have made a wicked paint colour!! hahahaha. So ya that 240sx 5 speed got swapped for another one about a year later as it wouldn't go into gear. DO NOT USE GL-5!!!!!!!! I don't care how cheap you are, don't use it. I guarantee it will cost way more to swap your trans later!

Yeah I drove it for just a couple minutes with the 29s on front and a buddys 31s (alloy rims) on the back. It had SO much power. Put my 240sx 5 spd manual to shame lol... LMAO. It was a little disappointing putting those huge 33x12.5 on 10 inch wide steel rims cause it did rob some power, but it still has by far enough. Way more than it had before with the vg30e and 29s. You could always use Mr. 510 crank pulley adapter, to use your original accessories. But you don't get the higher output p/s pump and 30 amp higher alternator that way. I believe the aluminum p/s pump is 30% or so stronger and the alternator is a whopping 50% more power (60 to 90 amp) The new steering pump turns my big 33s a lot easier than the old one did when I had 33s on it for a short while(they were extremely worn and torn and came with the truck, put back on the 29s for safety lol). and no i didn't spin them on purpose!!! i give it a little gas and the roads were just slightly wet and they started goin. i am babying these duras tho really. I cant justify ruining 1000$ lol. yeah man this swap is BAWS. lol. im sure the intake/headers/exhaust made a pretty big difference as well... but they were really cheap actually. the headers were i believe 110-120 shipped from ebay , the muffler was 50, the pipe was another 30-40 maybe both from lordco? the intake was off ebay for 25 bucks. But it required hours and hours of welding!! I got my whole r50 engine/accessories/lines everything for 200 bucks but I had to pull it. Plus 160 for the ford lift shocks all around and maybe another 150 bucks in belts and bolts and miscellaneous other parts. so the whole deal cost me about 785-800$ and thats including the shocks!! can't really complain about 800$ for all those upgrades lol. I should really get a jig setup so I can make those power steering brackets fast and easy.. sell them for a couple bucks for my time to people that want to adapt the r50 accessories (which I prefer in the wd21 as now everything lines up and the runs are all half the length).

Oh really, I would lose low end power with the vg30 cams? and lose fuel economy? I was under the impression that my fuel economy could be improved with them as they are slightly more aggressive with slightly more lift. USDM VG30 "Truck" cams (D21, WD21 and J30) 248/248 .393"/.393" USDM VG33 Cams (all) 240/244 .354"/.354" So by using a higher lift and also which is that shorter or longer duration? Haha still very new to cams... Trying to figure all of this out.. I would lose fuel economy? The higher lift I thought would increase power slightly while keeping most of the low end since the duration is only raised to 248/248 and there is no overlap... What does the overlap do??? Where do you think this would affect my powerband? Right now the truck has so much grunt it seems to not even be revving much over 2 grand - 2400 for my late 2-3 shift that the tranny always does.

Yeah since I went through and just made every connection immaculate and re did all the grounds to make them very strong and cleaned everything. added some jumpers. set the o2 deeper in the bung, put in some premium gas and injector cleaner. and started driving it around today. BAM. RUNS LIKE A DREAM. Everything is just perfect now! The ECU needed a bit of real driving time under load to figure itself out and now it just purrs like a kitten. Thanks for all the helps guys getting this beast running! What a difference in power and driveability, as well as gas mileage! This pathy will be on the road a LONG time. Man it was fun to go wheelin again today... Haven't played in the mud or trails for 6 months!!!!!!

No.. it is such a huge difference. The truck doesn't even feel the same. The whole powerband and revs and everything changed between the 3.3 swap and the 4 inch larger diameter tires(had 29s before these lol). The torque converter doesn't seem to really unlock anymore? I don't know why but the transmission seems smoother... I did of course change the fluid when I did it but, it's just the way it drives now is so different. The transmission seems more solid now and shifts better. The truck pulls HARD off the line. I can spin my 33s on 15x10 steel rims (heavy sons) with my auto... On the highway the truck doesn't shift down anymore. It stays in full overdrive. My highway revs changed HUGE. It is a highway cruiser now!!! I used to be revving 2500-2600 RPM doin 100km/h on the highway... My revs have now dropped down to 1750 goin 100km/h. My gas mileage has gone up huge. I will figure out some solid numbers soon but average mileage anyways has improved by at least 60%!!. I did about 100-110km of driving today including about 45 minutes of trail / mud pits with some good acceleration runs on 10$ of premium fuel. That averages to around 23 mpg I think?!?! I used to only get maybe 18 on the highway and 15 while wheelin or around town... I am at a loss... I was happy with my pathy before, it was a nice rig and got me around and took me where i needed to go but now it is what I always wished it was power wise and drive-ability wise. Worth every drop of sweat and blood and every dollar!!! Can't wait to get those VG30 cams in there now. Just icing on the cake!!

Use GL4. GL5 ***WILL*** eat the synchros and the next time you drain your fluid it will be METAL FLAKE gear oil. looks cool. lol

Wow... just wow. This truck has changed so much... night and day difference. Still has ample power on the highway even with these ridiculous heavy wheels.... I'm about to hit a trail. Sure turns heads now too! The Ford shocks worked awesome it rides nice and even and smooth. I recommend this swap to anyone.... just wow lol. I think I'm Gunna keep this truck forever.